You know I just realized something with the last post I sent...My brake resevoir is leaving like a siv. It has sprayed under the car- all over the place!
Is it possible that it could have done damage or caused a problem with grounding points, starter mount, cabling etc...I know that brake fluid is funky stuff and there are warnings about what not to get it on etc. I have a feeling that my rear brakes are compromised because of the sprayed that has (easily) reached that area...Understand my girl friend has been driving this car with no awareness for anything when it comes to maintenance...so...

what does anyone think about this?

I tried the twisting and scraping each fuse first and yes it worked for a while but the problem reocurred...The new "glass" fuses has held in there...so far!

Is it possible that I was just not making as strong enough contact at the 3 lugs to pass the kind of current required to activate the solenoid. I used a #12 stranded wire, but I was just touching the top of the lugs. I didnt screw this wire down to one of the lugs and then really mash the other end onto the small lug or anything.

I know when high current is required at low voltage, you need a good connection...Just a thought...

There is no fuse involved with the starter. If you shunted between the center terminal and the smaller ouotside one the solenoid should pull in and the motor turn. If you hear a relay-like noise at the starter its the solenoid moving but if the motor doesn't spin at the same time thens it's a dirty solenoid not making contact. This is fairly common in old starters.
To visualize for a moment, the end of the center plunger in the solenoid has a copper plate that is made to hit againt two copper pieces inside. One of the copper terminals is the battery terminal and the other goes to the brushes in the motor and momentarily makes it run as long as the solenoid is in.
What often happens is carbon dust from worn brushes in the motor wind up clogging the solenoid and either it will not travel far enought to make contact or the contacts are themselves are plugged with carbon and do not carry current to the motor. I have cleaned up an otherwise useless (no operating) starter motor by using a half a can of WD40 to flush out the carbon material, sand the contacts and the armature if necessary and put it back together and use it for 4 or 5 more years. Cost = zero. If the brushes are worn they should also be replaced (Bosch makes it hard to find them though!) I am not suggesting everyone try to do this sort of thing because its a real dirty job but worse yet, you can fail to get it all back right and wind up with a bag of parts that the alternator shop might be able to salvage but they hate to see people drop off cores like that and can refuse to accept it.
RE: Brake reservoir grommets. They should never leak. They fit tight if you got the right size. But the plastic reservoir could have a tiny crack at the nipple where it goes into the grommet. A new reservoir is up to $60 now! last time I ordered one it was $30. Must be inflation!

I don't think there is any connection between the spilled brake fluid and the starter problem.
The engine ground is on the passenger side in later models and I believe it was on the driver side in the pre-81 300TD. It is a wide braid (strap) that has large lugs that go under a bolt at each end, and are not tied to the Battery or even close to it!~
The Battery is grounded to the frame thru one bolt that BTW should be real obvious if its loose.

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

It is not all that much current! I USED MY CAR KEYS TO MAKE CONTACT ONCE (sorry for all caps) a set of leads like used on a voltmeter will work fine. Two screwdrives will do it too if your nimble.
You only touch the wire, do not try to put either end under the screws. Just momentary contact is all you need.

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

wow.. this is quite timely... i have the same problem too!..

my car starts off fine.. but at times it would just give me "clack".. i know electricity/current or voltage.. or whatever gets to the starter.. after resetting the key.. it starts in one click... i've had this intermittent behavior for the past week.. had the connections checked and they all seem tight and clean... i'm already suspecting my solenoid could be the culprit..coz even if i jumped the relay or the starter itself, at times it wouldn't catch...

anyway.. just chiming it.. i'm set on changing the solenoid anyway on saturday.... so i'll just put an update here so that everyone will know if that solves the intermittent start problem.

i just love this forum.. so many helpful souls..

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Mike

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1975 200 - Sold (no pix);
1978 200 - Sold - http://www.pbase.com/hboy/redbaron
1979 300TD - Sold
http://www.pbase.com/hboy/greenwagon
http://www.geocities.com/hboy726/300TD.html
1985 230E - now my daily driver...

When I found out what is involved in getting the starter out of the car, I was quite willing to be humbled by using the pipe for a tap the 1 out of 20 starts I have a problem with. I have a replacement starter. I don't have the patience at this time to replace it.

If yours is acting up every start, I would suggest trying to tap it from the top, or bottom to help figure out the problem.

Good luck

Don

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1980 300TD-T (82 Turbo and Trans) 159,000 Miles "Jackie-O"
1983 300SD 272,000 Miles "Aristotle"
1987 Jeep Wagoneer Limited - keeps the MB's off the ice and out of the snow
1994 BMW 530it