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#1
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Turbo oil drain - wacky idea?
I'm still a newby but have been reading and reading and reading....and reading...and staring at my engine, and staring at other peoples engines and listening to others experiences. (THANKS ! Mark)
So....I'm looking at my turbo drain thingamabobber - you know the two sections of pipe thing that goes down below the turbo...Anyway. the current set up has the top pipe fitting over the lower pipe. Why is that? would'nt this arrangement be more leak resistant if the upper pipe went into instead of over the lower pipe? Please go easy on me I'm new to this but am trying to repair and prevent leaks as many as I can at once instead of sequencially....
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Rob M Norwich, VT USA 1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue ~160K miles |
#2
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Rob, you are right about that - reversing that tube sequence, at least initially, would minimize chances of leaks. However, it would also be a great receiver of sand and other road crap facing up. Diesel vibrations being what they are, that would eventually grind some stuff down there - at least, that's my best guess. I bet they started the design that way, then changed it before they got into production. The fitting to the cyclonic oil seperator is "top part in" if you will. But it's well shielded by the air cleaner and probably less susceptable to contamination.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#3
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indeed. Sorry for sharing my blazing display of ignorance If My car had had the debris catcher orientation I can assure you I would have a nice think pate of gumpa on the inside of the oil pan
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Rob M Norwich, VT USA 1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue ~160K miles |
#4
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Someone on the forum replaced that ridiculous mess of pipes with a soft line. Someday, after the bigger oil leaks get fixed, maybe I'll get to that one.
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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#5
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Well now.....That certainly does sound appealing. Hmmmm...What about replaceing the "bell" (lower end of upper pipe and upper end of lower pipe) with a section of hose with some clamps.....From what I hear the challenge is getting the bell section in and out.....Hmmmm now you really have me thinking....Can you smell the smoke????
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Rob M Norwich, VT USA 1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue ~160K miles |
#6
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That tube replacement has been done to many of these cars, I'm sure. I believe the plans for those tubes were finalized on a hot, friday afternoon in Stuttgart, after much beer getrinken. The parts car I obtained had a sawn metal tube/rubber hose/screw clamp arrangement. I replaced it with a good, unsawn original from the other engine when I rebuilt. The only problem I've had so far is a very fine surface rust starting in one spot, but not a drop of oil yet.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#7
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while the hose
idea is appealing, finding one that will stand up to the heat under the turbo seems like a problem. although i agree that the factory setup is an abortion, i would hesitate to go to a rubber hose.
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#8
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I haven't had the good fortune that would provide the opportunity for me to attempt this procedure as yet, so forgive the ignorance (no, I didn't do a search, either!). What about stainless line? Are the walls of the stock return pipe thick enough to flare them and put a fitting on?
Jay. |
#9
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well
it is just a drain and not under any pressure so a stainless sheathed line could just be clamped on. there could be clearance issues though because the sheathed line is thick walled.
even though the stock line is a pita to get right i prob would stay with that. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#10
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At least you don't have to pull the turbo, right? On my old turbo Volvo, the return pipe was a one-piece deal, which meant "off comes the manifold" when it started leaking. Luckily the exhaust manifold studs snapped off on a pretty regular basis, and I replaced the o-ring at the bottom end of the pipe every time I had the manifold off to change the studs (I drove the car a little too hard). The only time I had a leak was when I boogered up the o-ring during installation. It leaked pretty good, then!
Jay. |
#11
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i am not sure
but you may have to pull the turbo to redo the stock setup. i do know that it is a royal pita!
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#12
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I read some threads not too long ago saying you could get the return pipes out/in by persuading them they needed to go toward the RF headlamp assembly?? Kinda' give 'em a little shove in the middle.
Jay. P.S. I went to Purdue for a couple terms... Engineering. AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH!! |
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