fellow members,
some of you may remember me as the fellow who began his 240D engine rebuild some month and a half ago. i am pleased to report that the project has come to a close. that is, the engine is finished and will be installed this saturday with a little help from my brother. i have only the break-in procedure in the haynes manual to go by, and would like any additional input on how to effectively break this engine in. are there any seasoned engine guru's out there with prior experience? i'd appreciate any input, thanks
william gum
some info on whats been done to the engine:
new main and rod bearings
crank balanced and polished
new pistons
new cyl sleeves
head reworked w/ new valves
new cam shaft and rocker arms
new timing chain
new gaskets all arround
various other small parts replaced
(say a little prayer, and keep those fingers crossed on saturday when i turn the key............)

using a special filter for the first few hundred miles? In my W108 book, I remember reading about there being a special filter that gets used after a rebuild. Does this still apply today? And if it does, who has 'em?
-Larry

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

I rebuilt a gas six in a '68 230 many years ago and read about the break in filter. I could not find one.

What I would recommend in lieu of the break-in filter is a hot oil and filter change at about 100 miles. This will get out any particulate and lint from rags that may be circulating. You could use some cheap 30 weight for the initial 100 miles.

A magnetic drain plug would be very helpful for the first few hundred miles because of the metal particulate that is created during break-in. But I have never found one the right size for one of these engines. A large magnet epoxied into the right position in the lower pan would be worthwhile. Manuy years ago I put magnets near the oil drainback area in the heads of small block chevies. The valve trains produced a lot of microscopic metal particles when operated at high RPM. It seemed to make the engines live a little longer.

As far as the actual break in driving style goes, I would imagine that there are as many opinions about this as there are oil brand/oil change frequency opinions.

Since I am rarely bashful about offering my opinion, I will also offer it here. I believe that you should just drive it, being very careful not to lug the engine, and, of course, you should never overspeed any engine.

Congratulations on working your way through the rebuild and best of luck. We're all proud of you.

Have a great day,

As a old shade tree mechanic, I usually drove about 50MPH the first 500 miles and 60 MPH after that. If driving on a long stretch vary your speed but not over 3000 RPM. I would chance my oil after the first 500 to 1000 miles and see how it looks. Also keep checking the vibration from the engine. Good Luck!

__________________
2000 Ford 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4
2006 Mazda Tribute
1983 Black 300 D (donated to charity)
1993 Teal 300 D (160K) Sold
"I love the smell of burnt diesel fuel in the morning, it smells like ....VICTORY"

Semper Fidelis
USMC 1973-1976