Maybe I'm missing the point here, but why are we trying to make a 20 year old diesel wagon act like a sports car? BTW, I don't recall the early 80s BMW handling being all that great, they certainly were not ready to be driven at the limit without significant modifications. As I recall, stock BMW sedans were lighter and SLIGHTLY more sporty than MBs. The biggest difference was the availability of 5 speed manual transmissions and BMW's marketing effort. It certainly does not make sense to compare an 80s vintage MB with current "sport wagons" (whatever that oxymoron means).

IMHO, if you want to drive a MB wagon, restore the suspension to the best condition possible, put on good tires, get an alignment, and enjoy it for what it is. If you want a sport wagon, or a real sports car for that matter, just go buy one.

WW, the 124 is more complex than the 123, but not excessively so. It just means you really should be using the factory service manual before attempting repairs, instead of just jumping in there with your best guess (as I'm sure most people do with the 123). The list of advantages and improvements between the 123 and 124 is extensive. Almost all my complaints about the 123 were fixed with the 124 and very few new/different ones appeared. The more I worked on my 123's, the more I hated them... the more I worked on 124's, the more I (generally) appreciated the ingenious engineering. IMO, it's one of the best-built and over-engineered cars ever, that is still capable of being repaired by the average DIY (with FSM in hand). If you want to talk "complex", check out the 140 chassis (92-99 S-class), which is somewhere between the Space Shuttle and the Concorde. That thing is a nightmare (and that's why resale on the 140 is hideously low).


David, the stock 124 does have a fair amount of body roll (sway) but it's still better than the 123. However with OEM parts you can make it amazingly flat. I've got the 'Sportline Plus' sway bars on mine with Carat lowering springs and it's downright fun in the twisties (and cloverleaf freeway ramps! ) The 124 also has very good weight distribution, 55F/45R for the early 300E, and 56F/44R for the 1987 300D. I'm not sure about later models but I know the V8 models had some changes made like moving the battery to the trunk, etc.

In Europe, Mercedes offered both Sportline and AMG models of each 124 body type (sedan, wagon, coupe, and cabriolet). That means if you really want to, you can order the suspension parts to turn your boring 124 into a Sportline- or AMG-spec car! That's right - even station wagons.

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Craig,
this is at least the 2nd or 3rd thread where your reply is right on the money. Keep it up big guy!

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Why? There are lots of reasons. Some people can't afford to own & operate multiple vehicles and may need one to serve multiple uses. Why have a boring wagon when you can make it a fun wagon with bolt-on parts? Of course that means stepping up to a 124 wagon not a 123, but it's possible. Shoot, Neil V stuffed a C36 AMG powertrain into his 1988 wagon... he autocrosses and drag races it. That must be a blast, beating up on unsuspecting ricers with the big ol' grocery getter. Speaking of which, the new ('05? '06?) E55 AMG wagon is disgustingly fast... that's what happens with nearly 500hp on tap though. Bummer about the price (way too close to six figures.)

A loaded 2006 E55 AMG Wagon will be about $100k off the lot. I think they start at $89k but by the time you add options and taxes you will be at or just north of the $100k mark.

But:
0-60 is 4 sec stock! Chip the sucker and you could have a sub 4 sec wagon! Remove all of the AMG badges and stick E320 badging on it; then you can look at the pissed off face of the 911 Turbo you just beat!

I would love to have a wagon like this a perfectly comfortable and un assuming daily driver that is a monster when the blowers start pumping!

Some of the new AMG's coming down the pipline are amazing.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Ten years from now I would be sorely tempted to buy a used, supercharged AMG. What scares me to death is the DIY factor. I'm not sure if the electronics on those cars will last 20+ years, for starters. (They are drive by wire AND brake by wire, btw!) And even if we can diagnose them, I bet the cost of parts could be insane, especially if we have to buy new since good used stuff may not be available. Shoot, my '94 M119 engine is borderline when it comes to DIY stuff on the engine... not easy nor cheap. (The rest of the chassis is pretty simple to deal with, thankfully.)

But the thought of a station wagon with E200 Diesel badges, capable of sub-4-second 0-60 runs, 12's in the quarter mile at 110+, would be a SERIOUS temptation. I'd spend half my free time finding unsuspecting Evos, 911's, and C6 Vettes to stomp... [evil grin]

I doubt that the folks who can't afford to own & operate multiple vehicles and may need one to serve multiple uses are spending high five figures on tricked-out sleeper wagons. I wouldn't really want to mess up a perfectly good "boring wagon" with bolt-on parts, anyway. IMHO, it's just a little too Monster Garage. I must be getting old, but I just don't get it.

Anyone with experience knows a tight suspension and steering are the first things to worry about where handeling is concerned.And the yes,springs,shocks,sway bars and tire upgrades.Does anyone know where to get polyurathane mounts and bushings for Mercedes?They don't deteriorate like rubber does and should last the life of the car.The more control you have,the safer you are behind the wheel.

Who said anything about high 5 figures? We're talking a 10-15 year old W124 wagon here, plus $500-$2000 in suspension upgrades (sway bars, springs, sport bushings, etc).

There are few, if any, poly bushings available for MB's. For the W124, just get the Sportline parts, they're about as stiff as poly but without the awful noise. Same goes for the 201 and 129 chassis. I don't think there are many options for the 123 or 126 though. I've got the full Sportline setup on my car (lower control arm bushings, sway bars & bushings, rear subframe bushings) and the difference is impressive.

Is it possible to upgrade to Sportline swaybars and bushing accessories without compromising ride height? I love the look and cornering ability of a lowered car, but hate the fear-factor of worrying about trashing my oil pan or IC on a rut or concrete parking lot bumper.

Have fun.

Absolutely no problem at all. You can actually get stiffer spring rates while maintaining the stock ride height if you don't want to lower the car. Remember that the wagon may have the 27.5mm 'Sportline' front bar already - measure what's on your car now before ordering anything else! You have my sway bar spreadsheet, correct? I also don't want my car drastically lowered. About 1 inch below stock (i.e., the Sportline ride height) is perfect... that's 14.0-14.25" from the wheel center to the fender lip lower edge. You're probably in the 15.0-15.25 range now.

I already am having fun! I've got pretty much the full package on my 1987 300D sedan. It's a BLAST to drive compared to stock. Main components are:

1) Larger sway bars front & rear (limo front, 500E rear)
2) Sportline lower control arm bushings
3) Carat lowering springs & dampers
4) Sportline rear subframe bushings
5) Sportline steering box (quicker ratio)
6) 17x7.5 wheels from a W203 Sport

You can do all the above for <$2k as DIY with some used parts.

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Dave, this Monday I just replaced the sway bar bushings on my current project W124 '87 300Dt. If I thought about better bushings I would have bought them, but OE was easy to get and its done and I'm not going back over that job even though it was simple. The cyl head is here and ready to go on before anything else.
Now, what about the rear thrust arms, I always change those on a "new" 124 I've learned they all need to be renewed if handling is expected to be perfect. There are two thrust arms plus camber arms. Are these available as Sportsline items with different (better) rubber or would the rear camber be changed because of different length, etc?
Then there is the front control arm bushings, are Sportsline bushings the same size but better material, that is the next thing I'll tackle after I get the engine running.
And as far as a 123 wagon, there are things one can do to make it handle well, maybe not quite as agile as a Beemer but very well for a car of this size and age. In addition to good steering bushings and control rod bushings up front, the list includes thicker front springs -forget the back ones - you want a stiffer spring rate up frort as mentioned earlier; new Bilsteins up front and 15 in wheels for starts. That plus a set of good tires and you should have a smile on your face when you take it thru a curvy upsweeping overpass or something that you would be otherwise be riding the brakes on in a car with the stock setup.

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!