IMO, pulling the turbo wasn't hard. Four mouting bolts, and oil feed, and an exhaust pipe. It's a good excuse to change the exhaust manifold gasket and generally clean things up. With the turbo out, the oil drain seals are simple to change. I think it took me 4-5 hours total on my '84 300D including pulling the turbo and re-installing it. Maybe if your turbo bolts are all rusted on it would be easier to NOT pull the turbo, but otherwise, I'd just yank it... YMMV, etc...

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Here is the procedure, look especially at the post by Eric Eliel:

turbo oil drain question

Once you get it out, then you can determine whether you need to remove the bottom oil pan or not. Depending on if the lower grommet comes out in one piece or many.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

IMHO, pulling the turbo on a 617 is impossible. I had some difficulty getting to the nuts with the exhaust manifold off the vehicle. There must be some special tools to get at those nuts with the turbo on the vehicle. One of the more ridiculous designs that I have seen.

Now, pulling the manifolds didn't seem to be very difficult, once the exhaust was disconnected.

Interesting, Brian! I was able to get to all 4 bolts using extensions and a universal joint. I needed to access one or two from behind the front tire, but otherwise they all came right off. Maybe the 123 chassis is different than the 126 or 116? If the turbo is that much truoble, then I'd leave it on too. Use the hose clamp trick and a hydraulic jack (not a hammer) to pry the tube out of the block.

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

We talking the 617 Dave?

There are four nuts that must be removed. They need to be accessed from the side in some fashion because they are in a place where you can't get a socket on them. With the manifold off the vehicle, I could just barely get a box wrench on a couple of them. Very tight quarters. It was not a instantanous task, even with the manifold on a bench.

Yup, 617.952 in a 123.133... it was a few years ago but I remember being able to use extensions to access most, if not all 4, bolts. Maybe one required a box wrench? I forget now. One more reason I like the 603, that's for sure (it has a nearly leak-proof drain tube design.)

There seems to be some misconception on how to remove and replace the drain pipe grommet.

It is designed like many A/C parts.

To remove the old grommet ( after u have removed the top half ) push down on the pipe. U will feel it slide an inch or so. Then use a pick and remove the old grommet.

To put on the new grommet, slide the oring and grommet onto the pipe. Leave the grommet half way on the pipe and lower the pipe into the hole. Then push the grommet into the hole. Finally pull up on the pipe until it snaps into place.

Then install the rest of the drain pipe.

You're a better man than me. And/or the old grommet is hard as a rock. Wish I had a pick like that. I could use it for lots of other thinks, like pulling tire beads up and over wheel rims

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

If u had pushed the pipe down, there would be room to use a pick.

Look at the pipe and grommet. Before doing anything, see how the grommet fits on the pipe.

When the grommet is snapped on at the end of the pipe, it is really tight. That is not the case when the grommet is on the middle section of the pipe.

It is not going to just come off. U will need to work at it. Using a pick with a hook helps.

This is a suggestion. If there is another way that works better, go for it.

Wow! There's definitely a wealth of experience and knowledge on this subject. Although I am a former mechanic, I must admit that working on a diesel is intimidating. I appreciate all the information and the links provided. I'll be studying all the information before attempting anything on the bottom half of the engine.

I've done this job 3 times. The first time was a bear. There was NFW that grommet would come out with a pick. The second time was several years later as it never sealed very well (with my increasing blowby, that was a DUH). I did it just as dieselbeagle describes, and it was much easier, as the grommet had some flexibility to it.

The third time I did it was when I rebuilt my engine. Sitting down, one handed as the valve cover wasn't on yet so I didn't have a place to put down my beer.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.