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Replacing 300sd idler arm bushing-steering
Read some previous posts on idler arm bushing replacement, but were for another car that seemed to have issues getting old one out in w124.
My steering is squeeky at low speeds. I figure it is time to replace the bushing. It is only about a $35 part OEM. Has anyone here done it on a 300sd? It looks like I have plenty of room to work up under there in this model as opposed to the original post on a W124 so what's the proper way to do this? Thanks. |
I know...this is an old thread...but...anyone have an answer for this? I have a nice, shiny new bushing, steering that shakes between 55 and 60, I can move the right front wheel an see movement at the bushing, and am looking for a definitive answer to this burning question...
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The most difficult part will be removing the end rubber bushings. Starting from below and removing the top one, I just used a thinner and longer bolt, canted it to one side to catch the end of the bushing and a 3# sledge made short work of it. Taking the top bushing out first, gives you better access to drive out the internal bushing and bottom end. Mine was extremely worn so it made it even easier.
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That's a good thought. I tried a month or so ago, had the center bolt out. Tried to catch the bushing, but everything seemed flush in the bore. I've heard that you can use a chisel also, just a quick in-passing reference. I've been looking for a good how-to in words of one syllable or less for dummies like me, just haven't found it, yet. But, if the weather is nice this weekend, I'll give the bolt trick a try. If anyone else is willing to share their experience and wisdom, I'll be happy to read that as well. Thanks.
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I replaced it on my W124, had to undo one engine mount - used a strong water pump pliers to grab the lower one and pull it out - then use the bolt as a chisel and hammer out the top one.
make sure that you install all washers as they came out from the old one, my car had one thick washer between the idler arm and the bushing cup - I installed it as I read in the repair manual that these were used to correct the steering angle. The bolt should be installed from upwards and the nut tightened with a torque wrench, its a very high torque I remember - something like 80 lb/ft or near. Once I was done with it the idler arm actually had some friction in it. It did help in the steering response of the car. |
Havent`t done this project yet, but here is a DIY Article on the W123, should be the same for the W126.
PeachPartsWiki: Steering Rebuild a few more: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/286514-idler-arm-rebuild-too-late-weekday.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/275207-w123-300d-steering-idler-bushings-removal.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/30507-idler-arm-rebuild%3B-grease-not.html Charlie |
for a shaking wheel, I'd look into tires first, then bearings, then ball joints, then control arm bushings, then tie rods, then last the idler.
and I mean LOOK at the parts on your car, don't go replacing them in the order I listed... $$$ you may not need to spend. |
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