I feel that I have no choice but to drop the pan. Hoping to find a simple solution but have ordered the pump (pricey little 2 lb piece of iron). Figured it wouldn't hurt to replace it regardless; bound to be somewhat worn.

Jim

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2005 C240 4matic wagon (daily driver)
87 190D - 225K (on loan)
85 190D - 312K (on loan)
2011 Subaru Legacy AWD (Wife's)

Europe

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2005 C240 4matic wagon (daily driver)
87 190D - 225K (on loan)
85 190D - 312K (on loan)
2011 Subaru Legacy AWD (Wife's)

I have some Mann's made in Czech Republic. Aside from the cotton gin chaff, they seem OK.

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Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

My 300SD with no oil pressure makes very little timing chain noise and I have 286+k miles (not sure if its origional...)

I know how it sounds with no/very VERY little oil pressure after my initial oil cooler line fiasco.

See thread "Another good reason to replace your motor mounts"

Typo?

Racking the brain for what could be leaking; what about the timing chain tensioner? seals - o-rings poosibly failed?

Jim

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2005 C240 4matic wagon (daily driver)
87 190D - 225K (on loan)
85 190D - 312K (on loan)
2011 Subaru Legacy AWD (Wife's)

Not a typo...I wish.

One of the better reasons to change your motor mounts (pics)

Forgive my ignorance. What should the oil pressure be at idle? Mine seems to be just below 2 on the guage at idle...goes to 3 when I step on gas.

Any input would be appreciated.

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Tom in AZ

1985 300SD, smoke silver, blue interior, 146K
1973 280, 85K (sold)

That's excellent. Some of the older engines with mileage on them get down below 1.5 at hot idle. All of them go to 3 when you give them fuel, otherwise the engine is severly worn.

1.5-2 is a reasonable standard.
I think mine floats right around 1.5 at idle (when quite hot).

The turbo models probably hover a tad bit lower (hotter oil/more flow to the turbo)

According to the 617.95 Service Manual, the minimum oil pressure level at idle is 0.3 bar.
The pressure should reach 3 bar no later than 3000 rpm.
The bypass valve in the oil filter opens at 3.5 bar and the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump opens at 7 bar.

Anybody have a 617 that runs below 1.0 at idle??

I could definately be wrong, but it does sound like it could possibly be the oil pump... could be warn out to the point it can move a thicker liquid but as the oil warms up and becomes thinner it looses efficancy and can no longer keep the pressure up...

or as a second possiblility something clogged up the pickup section of the pump while he was on the highway, than in towing and what not it un-clogged and now it's fine, hence the normal 3bar when he started it up after the fact.

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2003 VW Passat GLS 1.8t wagon 73k mi
1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 228k mi
1974 VW Karmann Ghia Coupe 74k mi (for sale)

Mine has before.......hovered right around .9 to 1 bar for a little while after it had been run a few hours at 75mph on the freeway on a very warm day....it went up within about 5 mins to 1.6ish again though, just had to cool down a tad....still went right up to 3 when touching the pedal though, so it was fine. Normally it always runs between 1.5 and 2bar....

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

first guess will be the best guess. My original guess was that I had an oil pump or bearing failure. With a new oil pump in hand I dropped the pan late yesterday afternoon. It appears that the problem was not the pump. I found a "chunk" of cast brass/bronze of irregular shape roughly 8mm long and 5-6mm in diameter resting comfortably in the bottom of the pan. Appeared to have come from a circular casting. Along with this were a few small chips of the same material and a fair number of "flakes" (very thin) of perhaps lead or aluminum (would not pick-up with a magnet). Just as the pan came off my bride arrived to have me clean up for dinner out so I have investigated no further.

Any ideas out there as to which bearing the chips might be from; thrust bearing perhaps?

Will probably be next spring before I have the time to yank the engine OR would anyone want to swap this inop 300SD, with a fair amount of new hardware for a decent 190D. (I have driven large cars all my life but I find that I much prefer the 201 to the 126).

Jim

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2005 C240 4matic wagon (daily driver)
87 190D - 225K (on loan)
85 190D - 312K (on loan)
2011 Subaru Legacy AWD (Wife's)

but if i had to hazard a guess i would say that your guess of the thrust bearing is the best. it is the only thing that i would imagine could fall into the sump. you can surely tell by the shape. a thrust bearing will look like a large flat washer and it is i think attached to the rear main bearing. i imagine if you know what a thrust bearing is you will be able to identify it.

then too, i would wonder how one can wear out the bottom end on a 617. we have torn several down with over 250k on them and found the bottom end virtually new. po must have not kept oil clean, or possibley some prob with the oiling system. more likely the former than latter.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.