hi,was in the process of doing the drip timing method (1980 300d non turbo) and didnt get to far.
my problem is: what type of wrench or socket is required to get the number 1 cap (element) of of the IP? this is needed to get the relief valve and spring out. but my pump looks different then the one in the haynes manual. the fuel elements on the pump itself in the haynes manual look like they would fit a standard size wrench,mine are held down by a series of splined straps that have screws securing the straps to the pump body. i was able to remove the screws and straps,but the element itself has a splined fitting on it....so how does this come off? also, the straps that hold the elements in place look like they can be adjusted left or right and then tightened down with the screws,
does this matter when you install the elements? or do you just screw them in?

Hey Wade,

I'm sure others who know more than me about this will post shortly but I'm sure you need some kind of splined socket to remove the deilivery valve.

Also, I would recommend that you do not move any of the straps or move the element. Moving it will effect the timing of that cylinder.
If you have to move it you should scribe around it first so you know where to put it back.
Actually....just don't move it.

Danny

__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
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ok, so do i not have to remove the #1 element to remove the relief valve and spring? these "straps" are also splined and hold the elements in place along with a screw...from what i can see, the strap/and the element have to come off in order to get at this valve and spring.(injector line comes off-screw comes out of strap and pump body-splined strap lifts off of splined element-then somehow,special deep splined socket is used to get element off) i just dont want to screw up how these are set in the pump body....never heard anyone speak of this situation...HELP!!! car is apart up here.

I thought somebody would have responded by now.
My valve comes off with a regular wrench so I don't have any experience with your model.
Speeking of your model you really need to go to the USER CP and put your location, year, make, model and mileage in your profile. This may be why no one is answering your post.

Also this topic has been addressed do a search for delivery valve. I'm sure you'll find information.

Danny

__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
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thanks danny i will do that now.

any idea where to get those splined wrenches, either socket or stubby box ends. i have put all the info in twice now....ie, make model mileage etc,why is it not staying..must be doing something wrong.

__________________
1980 mercedes euro 300D 232000 miles(died,now parts car)
2004 2500 ram cummins diesel
1980 harley shovelhead
1988 anniversery corvette zr1(engine)
1978 240D 4spd 240000 miles (new benz toy)
1946 Cessna 140, Continental 0-200

looks like its there now

__________________
1980 mercedes euro 300D 232000 miles(died,now parts car)
2004 2500 ram cummins diesel
1980 harley shovelhead
1988 anniversery corvette zr1(engine)
1978 240D 4spd 240000 miles (new benz toy)
1946 Cessna 140, Continental 0-200

As far as I know all you need to take the little valve and spring out is a 15mm open end wrench. Thats after you have taken off the high pressure line (17mm) on #1
At least thats the drill on my 616. Good luck

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

i guess there are some models that have these crazy splined delivery valves,I guess i am SOL, i put everything back together last night, i will just live with it for now until i find some wrenches...was all over town today and struck out
4 times...city of over a million,gotta be some of these wrenches somewhere.

__________________
1980 mercedes euro 300D 232000 miles(died,now parts car)
2004 2500 ram cummins diesel
1980 harley shovelhead
1988 anniversery corvette zr1(engine)
1978 240D 4spd 240000 miles (new benz toy)
1946 Cessna 140, Continental 0-200

sorry also forgot to ask if anyone in the loaner tool program may have one of these wrenches?

__________________
1980 mercedes euro 300D 232000 miles(died,now parts car)
2004 2500 ram cummins diesel
1980 harley shovelhead
1988 anniversery corvette zr1(engine)
1978 240D 4spd 240000 miles (new benz toy)
1946 Cessna 140, Continental 0-200

Wade

I see what your talking about, sorry. My Euro 240D has that type of IP, which I assumed was a Euro thing as other Euros I've had have had the same type IP. I have not timed mine yet but I was thinking I could use the little tab as a wrench, you cant budge it with that?

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

He can probably manage to remove the delivery valve covers but it'll be difficult to get them torqued properly without a splined socket.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

" torqued properly "

Hah, thanks, I was wondering about removing those on mine when the time comes. I 've never seen one of those wrenchs, but theres allot of things I've never seen

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

funny thought on using the tabs/straps to remove the element. that came to mind after swearing alot when i took off the injection lines.....why not give it a try, HAH!!! i got pretty excited when a 5/16 open end fit perfectly over the end of the tab.......dont try this at home!!!! those things are on there TIGHT.
how tight? i actually bent the tab (against itself horizontally!!!) anyone have a spare? going to try the actual splined socket next...i do have one further question...once i manage to get this thing apart, what is the purpose of the slots in the tabs? do you not just torque the delivery valve down to specs and go with it? i have heard two thoughts on this -1: you can actually change timing on individual cyls by adjusting the tabs and 2: that this is not true, and the tabs are designed to only keep the delivery valves from moving,
which one is it?

__________________
1980 mercedes euro 300D 232000 miles(died,now parts car)
2004 2500 ram cummins diesel
1980 harley shovelhead
1988 anniversery corvette zr1(engine)
1978 240D 4spd 240000 miles (new benz toy)
1946 Cessna 140, Continental 0-200

AFAIK the splined tabs keep the delivery valve holders from turning. And they're apt to turn when you remove and attach the injector lines which screw into the delivery valve holders. You can't change timing by turning the delivery valve holders. All you can do is cause leaks, damage seals or prematurely wear the needle valve with an incorrect torque setting. To change timing you either have to rotate the IP about its mount or reposition a cylinder's plunger against the rack. Pretty hard to do via the delivery valve holder.

The slot in the tab allows the tab to be in a poistion that allows gripping the delivery valve holder and aligning with the tab hold-down bolt.

If someone tells me how to access parts for a 77-79 300D in the EPC I'll see if there's a part number. The 80-85 300D shows the hex style delivery valve holder and no expanded view showing the tabs. FWIW the tabs on an OM603 have part number 000 075 00 38. List price of $1.40 each in 2001.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL