I believe the starter works fine because the engine turns over when i turn the key? is this a correct assumption. My fuel injection lines are shot though, so that may be the problem. I ordered some online but it will be a week before they get here.

Bad injector lines is not a problem that comes up frequently here. Why do you think they are bad?
If you're thinking of the fuel return lines that go from injector to injector, then bad return lines should not hinder starting (I believe)

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

My 84 300d would not start until I fixed the injector return lines but it would crank and get slower like the battery was going away. I would replace those lines as well.

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2000 VW Jetta TDI with 213,000 miles and climbing
84 300D non turbo getting ready for wvo conversion

The only issue of whether or not the starter would "work" is if it is in tip-top enough shape to wing the engine over fast enought to start the engine.
Old starter = slow turning = hard start.
New Starter = fast turning = easy start.

Thus why you would opt for the push start option (if the starter isn't prime).

My 240D starts up with its own starter dandy

I'd have eyed the timing chain before even charging the battery.

Perhaps check to see if the fuseable link on the GP relay is still intact

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

read every post so if i am out of line just ignore please.

the starter can be fine and still not start a car that has been sitting for 2 years. if pulled the engine will develop more compression at a higher cranking speed and start where it might not with a starter. then after being run and warmed up and theoil circulating etc. may start fine with just the starter. so often pulling it is the only way to get it going the first time after an extended nap.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Ok, I bought a ohm meter and did a glowplug check. checking at the gp relay. I got 1.2 ohms on 2,3,&4. terminal 1 did not work. Is that enough to keep it from starting, I wouldn't think so.

by the way which is the glow plug indicator on the dash?!!! is it the coil looking one or the one that looks like a sun? the one that looks like a sun stays on and never comes off. the coil light comes on then off pretty quickly.
The temp. gauge never seems to move though. I live in houston and its 100 degrees here. so shouldn't it start regardless of the glow plugs?

I think im going to wait on the push starting. I think I will buy a compression tester and see if im getting compression.

Oh, and its the fuel injection return lines that are rotten. I bought some vacuum hose and replaced the return lines. they do not leak when priming. I know they are not made to transport fuel put they are temporary until the proper ones i ordered com in.

yesterday I took the fuel injector lines off (the metal ones). The fuel injector works as it squirted diesel when cranking and having the lines off

I also took of the crank case cover. the camshaft looks really good and the timing belt looked nice and clean. everything LookeD well oiled and in very good condition. I put everything back together.


Lastly, I broke some flow valve on the vacumm line. it was connected between the vaccum pump and a big black round disk thing behind the brake fluid container. It was a one way valve and had two nipples where smaller vaccumm lines connected to. Does anyone know what the name of this is and where to order another one. I've looked online and cant seem to find anything that looks like it.

THANKS FOREVERYONES HELP

As I recall the GPs are to test out below 1ohm, not over... mine all tested at 0.7ohm. Not sure on Terminal 1... bad ground perhaps?

I'm up in North Texas and it's just as hot here, it's not going to just start up after a few cranks... it takes a long time to build up enough cylinder heat to light off that fuel in there. You'll see puffs of smoke from the tailpipe many times over before the car decides to start up. The block and head are still cool to the touch.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

the haynes manual said 1.2 ohms

I very well may be wrong. I could have sworn it was 1ohm or less.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

what is the symbol for the glow plug indicator on dash? is it that looped line thing or the sun looking one?

That looped line is for the GPs. The sun one you're speaking of should be for the brakes.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

If the brake light never shuts off, that means you need to replace some pads somewhere (the sensors are touching)

When you are cranking the engine over and over and over, make sure you don't touch the accel pedal until the engine is already coughing and sputtering and trying to run.

On mine, if you touch the pedal it just seems to "cool off" the cylinder and makes it even harder to start.

I was also given a 240. Mine sat for 1 1/2 years.

My brake light stayed on as well and I found it was just in need of lube at the adjustment point on the parking brake. Under the car, about in the middle, you'll find a cable attached to a piece of steel [about 4" long] with an adjustment nut on it. That is the point where my cable was frozen up. I sprayed some Boshields T-9 [available in any marine store and is similar to WD-40 but lasts longer] and bingo....brake light off. Besides the brake light being on the other indication was the parking brake pedal was not returning all the way. With the tip of your left toe see if you can lift back towards you on the pedal. If the brake light goes out when you try this then it is no doubt in need of lube.

I didn't read all the posts so excuse me if this has already been answered....yes, the glow plugs must still work even in Texas!

Cheers,

Bill

THANKS FOR EVERYONES HELP.
I just got it started and drove it around the block. It was just having a hard time coming back to life. I hooked up the battery to my explorer for some extra juice and just kept turnin it and it finally started. Now it starts up with no problem.
It doesn't turn off though and the transmition is definatly on its last leg... but Im one step closer to restoring her!!!!