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  #16  
Old 09-06-2005, 12:21 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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the sleeves

are not flanged. they are put in cold. they are a dry sleeve. it takes a hydraulic press to put them in. it is a tight fit. there is, i think, a lip at the bottom of the bore that stops them. they arent really thick, i would estimate 3/32" maybe a little more but less than 1/8". i am not sure about the centering but i think it is to be aligned with the center of the crankshaft.

these are my observations from talking with my machinist while the work progresses. i limit myself to pushing out the sleeves in the machine shop. anything more than that i am not qualified. he would let me do more but he trusts me more than i do. i have too much on my mind for such meticulous work. i will get distracted and screw it up.

when pushing the sleeves out the force is so great i am pretty sure if i got the plates aligned wrong the press could explode the block.

tom w

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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #17  
Old 09-06-2005, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
are not flanged. they are put in cold. they are a dry sleeve. it takes a hydraulic press to put them in. it is a tight fit. there is, i think, a lip at the bottom of the bore that stops them. they arent really thick, i would estimate 3/32" maybe a little more but less than 1/8". i am not sure about the centering but i think it is to be aligned with the center of the crankshaft.

these are my observations from talking with my machinist while the work progresses. i limit myself to pushing out the sleeves in the machine shop. anything more than that i am not qualified. he would let me do more but he trusts me more than i do. i have too much on my mind for such meticulous work. i will get distracted and screw it up.

when pushing the sleeves out the force is so great i am pretty sure if i got the plates aligned wrong the press could explode the block.

tom w
Thanks for the info Tom. I kind of figured without a flange that there would be a lip at the bottom. The wall thickness of American sleeves are either 3/32 (thin wall) or 1/8 (thick wall). When we pressed the sleeves in the big air compressor that I mentioned in a previous post we blew the pump in our 60 ton press. This was on the second jug we did. After that happened we heated the jugs and miked the ID every so often until we had .010 clearance. When we got that the cans just dropped in.
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  #18  
Old 09-06-2005, 12:54 AM
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come

to think of it i believe we put the sleeves in the fridge before pushing them in.

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #19  
Old 09-06-2005, 06:19 AM
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MB wants the installer to bore the sleeves because you are supposed to measure each piston and bore the sleeve to fit THAT piston correctly.
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  #20  
Old 09-06-2005, 08:28 AM
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The block bore has a slight counterbore at the top. The sleeves have a flange at the top, and the sleeve is pressed in until the sleeve flange bottoms on the counterbore of the block. The sleeves stick out and then they get cut down flush with the top of the block. The sleeves are something like 2mm thick. The cross hatch angle is something slightly off 45, like 50 or 55 - it's in the FSM anyway. Those sleeves are in there pretty tight indeed. I removed/installed mine with the arbor press in my garage. Based very roughly on my weight and long handle length on my press, it took about 9 tons to move them. The bores need to be centered on the crank centerline and rod journals for best results.
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  #21  
Old 09-06-2005, 09:08 PM
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i agree

i misspoke when i said the sleeves didnt have a flange.

tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #22  
Old 09-06-2005, 11:46 PM
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thank you

leathermang. you are right. i definately do not recommend my very general description from memory to be used in stead of a manual.

tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #23  
Old 09-07-2005, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
"then they get cut down flush with the top of the block."

UH... not exactly .... be sure to consult the FSM for the height above the block which the sleeves are supposed to be left...
They must be using the stand-up for an additional "crush" seal around the fire ring something like some of the Perkins diesels have. If my memory serves me right I think some of the Perkins had a .003 stand up.
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  #24  
Old 09-07-2005, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
"then they get cut down flush with the top of the block."

UH... not exactly .... be sure to consult the FSM for the height above the block which the sleeves are supposed to be left...
Greg, this surprises me. My 617 had sleeves flycut to exactly the same height as the block, i.e., they were clearly faced at the same level and time. Upon replacement and reassembly I duplicated this, although I stoned the entire surface to even out the overall surface finish. Maybe I missed this - have you seen a spec listed for the 617 indicating sleeves to be anything other than flush? If so, what was it?
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  #25  
Old 09-07-2005, 10:20 AM
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Interesting discussion

When I pressed my sleeves out it took about 7 tons to get them broke loose and then it went downhill from there. Pressing them in took very little force. The sleeves slid in anywhere from 1/3 to 1/2 the length by hand. The rest was a light press probably less than 1 ton. I made sure to oil them up well and I also cleaned out the basic bore with scotch-brite. I think that they should have an interference fit for adequate heat transfer, I hope mine were tight enough Sleeves have since been bored and fly cut. My machinist also cut the sleeves down to the surface and took about .005 off the deck height to true it up.
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  #26  
Old 09-07-2005, 11:09 AM
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Thank you JRB.... I think you are correct as to the reason ....and worry that more people are not reading the FSM before doing engine rebuilds....or requiring that their machinist read it... or using one who is already familiar with some of the eccentricities of MB engines.... even though it is not my money at risk..
It is boring ( pun ) reading.... but they were nice enough to publish the information for rebuilding to factory new condition.... particularly since the engines are designed with sleeves....
It is not unusual to have dry ice available to put inside the sleeves before they are introduced to the block....
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  #27  
Old 09-07-2005, 02:10 PM
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so does it say

in the fsm to leave them up or not?

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #28  
Old 09-07-2005, 02:48 PM
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Manual says...

Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
in the fsm to leave them up or not?

tom w
This is from the online FSM (01-115)

5. Projecting liner flange is to be milled or ground off. Remove as little stock as possible from crankcase parting surface ...

Maybe the online source is different from Mr Leathermang's
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Last edited by Bajaman; 09-07-2005 at 03:20 PM.
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  #29  
Old 09-07-2005, 03:12 PM
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The 617.95 turbo diesel engine service manual states:

"Mill or grind off projecdting liner flange. Remove as little as possible from cylinder crankcase parting surface. Guilde milling cutter or grinding wheel centrally over cylinder bores."

This is the way I have always done them. I'm pretty sure you would not get the head gasket to properly seat if you do not do this.
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  #30  
Old 09-07-2005, 03:30 PM
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Jim, that's what I did too. Hand grinder, then a flat bastard, then finally an oil stone.

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