would a 81 240D have egr ?

I couldn't see one...

is the EGR the sickest, most rusted up brown POS in your engine bay?
it is in mine.

My BB was stainles steel. At least it won't rust! :D

I suggest you put a plate between the egr valve and the intake manifold as well as pluging the vac line. plug the vac line up close to the control valve (on the valve cover) the egr valve has a tendencie to leak vacuum. put a plate under the egr valve, mine was frozen in the partally open position, pluging the vac line would not have stopped exahust gasses from going in the intake manifold. I used a small piece of stainless I had lying around. use an egr valve gasket as a template. WD40 is recommended on the egr valve attach bolt as they can get pretty rusted up. you dont' want to break them off. I had the intake manifold cleaned before I did this, it's still pretty clean inside after 20k miles. you could pull the whole system off, but that might be noticed if you have emissions testing done in your area like we do in Denver.

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the funny and helpful responses. I can't remember, are there one or two vacuum hoses going to it? Should I block both?

I was thinking it'd look great if I could remove it altogether, would that be easy to do or would I have to cover the opening to the engine with something?

I guess disabling it should only make the engine warm up a little slower if anything, is that right? What was the worst case in what it could do to the engine if left functioning?

Thank you,
Nick

Does the 602 euro version have an EGR? If yes can someone show it on a pic please.

You would be correct, it does look great.

I manufacture and offer a suitable kit to do exactly that. However, I do it once per year, due to the fact that I need at least 30 people to keep the cost reasonable ($28.00).

I'll offer the kit in April of 2006 with a new thread on this forum. The kit completely eliminates the valve and covers the hole in the exhaust manifold and blocks the passage in the intake manifold with a polished stainless steel plate that matches the original machined face.

And I can vouch for the fact that Brian's kit is first class and worth waiting for. He included instructions, OEM gasket, SS hardware and sealant. Patience usually wins.

I tried to post this before, but I guess the form never sent (my internet connection is lousy at home). Here's my Q: Is there any harm to plugging the vac line while NOT using a blocking plate? What is the effect of having the vac line plugged when the unit is stuck open? Is that any worse than leaving the unit to function untouched? Basically, my understanding is that plugging the vac line is helpful at best and harmless at worst. Is that a correct assessment?

The valve operates on vacuum. If the valve is working properly and you disconnect and plug the vacuum line, the valve can't open. The blocking plate simply allows you to remove the valve.

However, if the valve is mechanically stuck open, it doesn't need any vacuum to open and removal of the vacuum line won't accomplish anything. You must remove and clean up the valve so that it is unstuck. Or, you must use the blocking plate.

Plugging the vacuum line is helpful most of the time and harmless if the valve is stuck open. ;)

Thanks Brian, for the thorough answer!

Bodhi I thought we took care of your egr back in May at the meet? :D

Plate kit
 

I'm in for a kit. I've recently sold Dieter and I have started to restore Brutus...

All good things will come to those who wait. ;)

You did! :D I was just making sure there wasn't something else I was supposed to be doing on top of that. It does seem to get better mileage ... about 2 or 3 more mpg, and I feel as though it has more oomph (although that could just be the power of expectation).