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#1
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Help: Shopping for a reasonably priced 300SDL, or 300SD
Prices seem to run between $3,000 to $9,000. High mileage is acceptable (200,000+), as long as the engine and tranny run well. I'm looking for a straight, clean vehicle with no rust, no body damage (road chips and paint oxidation is OK), nice looking interior and mostly functional (i.e., windows, central locking, sunroof, etc.)
Should I be able to find a 300SDL that meets the above criteria for less than $5,000? $4,000? I see 300SDLs for sale at $3,000-4000, but I haven't seen them in person yet nor driven them. So I don't know if they will be acceptable or a disappointment. Any insight? If not I may need to increase my budget, or shop instead for a 300SD. Sidenote: My first diesel was a '83 300D that I've been without for a few years. I had intentions of replacing it with a 190D, but that deal fell through. So I've had the hankering for a MB diesel for a bit. I was giving thought to purchasing a VW diesel, but prices seem too high. Last edited by mrdane; 09-08-2005 at 09:14 PM. |
#2
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Brian Carlson is the guy to ask about SD's and SDL's here. The chief difference I'm aware of is a slightly longer body and six cylinders, in the SDL, and the SD will have 5 cylinders. The SDL will likely give slightly better fuel economy and more pep!
My guess is that you can find a reasonably good SDL for around $5k, but really nice ones sell for more! |
#3
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Up north here, I just found a 1980 restored 300SD, for $4000 CAD. But to be truthful, I've been searching for a LONG while for one like this..... about 14 months.
Keep your eyes open, and like me, one day one might just pop up.
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79 300SD - $50 out of pocket purchase 03 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD 2003 VW Jetta TDI |
#4
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I got my '87 300SDL for $2300 about 3 months ago. It had a leaking transmission and numerous small maintenance items required- fluids, tie-rods, ball joints, tires, etc.. Body is in perfect shape though and it only has 167K. I feel like I got a good deal compared to the other SDL's I saw when I was looking. Even if I have to put $3K into it I will still have a sweet car for only $5300.
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1987 300SDL 167k 1992 Volvo 740 140k 1990 Volvo 740 250k 1989 Volvo 240 269k Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl? |
#5
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Quote:
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#6
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Quote:
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79 300SD - $50 out of pocket purchase 03 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD 2003 VW Jetta TDI |
#7
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Well, I'm checking sites like autotrader, cars.com, and yahoo.com auto classifieds. I've travelled to TN, TX, and CA for my last three car purchases and expect to do some travelling for this one too.
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#8
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Keep an eye on ebay. Usually they are way overpriced, but sometimes there are some good deals. I never bought a MB from ebay, however I did go look at one that was listed, and it was not as nice looking up close as it was in the pictures.
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#9
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Typically the best deals aren't listed online... both of mine were not. Snoop around at your local used car lots and local mechanics. I saw a very nice 116 for $2k out the door, AC blew cool (not cold, still R12), windows still worked, etc.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#10
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I've got both of them and I'll make the following comments to assist you:
If you decide on the SDL, you must be prepared for significant maintenance costs. This is simply due to the fact that the parts are more costly than the SD and the vehicle has more complex electronics to go wrong. Additionally, there is the risk of the aluminum head on the 603 engine. Unless you have a stack of maintenance records from day one, it's going to be YOU who are doing all the repairs to the SDL, and it ain't cheap. If you get one for $5-$7K, you have to figure another $3K in deferred maintenance items in the first year. None of these items are dead critical, and the vehicle will function without them, but, they all add up. If you get one for $2-$4K, you can spend $8K in the first year. Ask Hattie about this. If this is outside of your budget, the SD is a better choice. The purchase price for a very good example is $5K-$6K. It should come with a stack of maintenance records at this price and should have less than 150K on the clock. It's a far better value than the SDL. You could get away with $1K per year on the SD, if it was properly maintained by the PO. Additionally, the engine is somewhat bulletproof, or, I used to think so, until this one cracked it's head. My experience is not typical. There are SD's available for $3K-$4K, but, honestly, I think that they are false economy because you will spend another $2-$3K to bring them up to snuff, and the paint probably won't be all that terrific. Better to spend $6K for a pristine example that was well cared for, and, possibly has mileage around 125K (although this will be very difficult to find). You also need to have an honest evaluation of your skills as a mechanic. All of these vehicles require wrenching because of their age. No way around it. So, if you are easily frustrated at somewhat difficult mechanical or electrical issues, then these vehicles should be avoided. They will bankrupt you if you have to bring them to a dealer or an independent mechanic to maintain properly. |
#11
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I agree, buying one in good inital shape for a little more $$ is worth it. I have had a Hattie type experience with my SD, bought it for $3,107 on ebay.....so far I have put about $5k in *rebuilding* costs into it over the past 2.3 years or so....and I could still spend more.... .....if I did have more money, I most certainly would... A good thing to remember is that I am insane. Also I never plan to resell this car, ever, just as Hattie with his SDL, I am taking this car to the grave with me. I do intend to retire it from daily driving someday(years away yet, sometime after college), and find a newer one to fill that role.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#13
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IMO - start with an SD to see what you think of these vintage S-Class. Not only are they less expensive to maintain, they're easier to wrench on too.
I started with an SD then purchased my SDL here in July. It is, as stated, a far more complex machine... but along with it is a larger rear, better OE stereo, better lights, updated climate control, stronger motor, etc.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#14
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Check with Indy mechanics
I bought my 300SD from my mechanic. He's always putting a couple of parts cars together and then selling them. I paid $4500 (140K) for it which I thought was kind of high at the time. But when little things went wrong with it, windows, A/C (not little), seat switches, etc., he fixed them for free for about the first two months. I knew the drive train was good. So far I'm very satisfied.
As always, check for rust. Good luck searching
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Tom in AZ 1985 300SD, smoke silver, blue interior, 146K 1973 280, 85K (sold) |
#15
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84 300 SD on ebay
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Tom in AZ 1985 300SD, smoke silver, blue interior, 146K 1973 280, 85K (sold) |
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