Poor man's propane injection.
 

So, I decide to try an experiment. Y'all might not wanna try this at home, folks. Subject (victum :confused: )= 1983 300 SD....160 M low miler.
Ran a clear Merc vacuum line from the air cleaner into the cockpit. Used a can of brake clean (it is burnable and will cool the intake charge via evaporation...so why not :confused: ) Takes a little while for the brake clean to run that long line to the engine intake, but when it does hit, is good for about 20 to 30 horsepower by feel. Shift to second produces good tire squeal. Runnin thru second, car runs outa room before we get to gear change to third and I hadda let off.

Just an experiment to try and eliminate the first gear turbo lag....ya know, to be able to merge into traffic (Dallas thrill rides rush hour). If ya run a short enough line, the "hit" will be almost instantaneous, but then you (or a volunteer :D ) will be ridin the right front fender with the hood off :pukeface: This would not be conductive to safe drivin, but might get ya merged into traffic sooner (lookit that crazy S.O.B Myrtle ! :eek: ! Back the hell off and let em in!!!) and would probly get you a chance to talk to the man with the big black cruizer, or maybe onna channel eleben onna T.V.

Regards

Run-em

I'd make sure everything else (see ALDA and wastegate) is adjusted right on your car- I have no problem with any of mine when jumping out into traffic- but of course only after tweaking them all.

I'm remembering back to working on a 82 300D and my friend (its owner) was helping me with various things on it when he noticed his air filter was pretty oily, so he decided to clean it out with brake clean and unbeknownst to me, put it back in the car. When he started the car, it went immediatly went to redline untill i ripped the U hose off realizing what he did.

Definitly not good noises heard coming back through the intake (after it finally shut down), a little scary but he didn't do any long term damage. Just be carefull if you're going to do this.

Proper propane shutoff solenoid valve with orofice of unknown dimension at end of air filter pipe... Line connecting that to the "hibachi" regulator... spin-on bottle.

WOT throttle switch activates solenoid, "arm" switch with cool aircraft style switchgaurd over it, ;) , in series.

Major design descision: Keep the propane in the passenger cabin where you can shut it off quickly (or potentially have bad fire)

or

Keep it all in the engine compartment, where passengers wont get burnt, but whoever has to open the hot hood and try to twist melted plastic valve in the event of a fire...

Darnit! theres ALWAYS a downside! :D

At least nitrous oxide isnt flammable... only in the movies.

When you start melting piston crowns come on back and let us know how rough your engine is running.

If you leech 20-30 More HP out of your engine, the associated heat production could be very damaging.

BTW 20+ HP on a engine that only makes 120 Stock Brand new HP is a lot.

I assume you don't have a pyrometer?

Have fun while it lasts :)

Brandon I may just give you a call on the phone to talk about this, but in some instances with large trucks, it is noted that EGT temps actually are decreased. I'm trying to comprehend the physics behind a more complete burn, that is realeasing more energy (actually producing cooler temperatures) but I'm sure there is a multitude of other factors that my make this posible.

So even if the temperatures increased greatly, would the modification of an intercooler dropping the temperature approx 125 F be enough to offset the increased heat produced by 20HP or approx 18% on stock OM617 turbo? I know the longevity of the engine is thus reduced yet again, but the power may just be worth it :rolleyes:

Anyone out there with any practical experience and Temps produced with propane injection systems?