Not having glow plugs wouldn't cause it to not start after filling up at a gas station. The engine would surely have enough residual heat in it to ignite another fire without the help of the glow plugs. Unless you have low compression or another problem.

Get the valves adjusted first, then take a look at the glow plugs.

I mean that the light did not come on after stopping for 5 min, after 30 min of driving... The light did come on when I started it today (using the mbz.org guide)

I GUESS its not a good idea to replace the resistance rods (thanks for the name BTW) But the wire comming out of the relay (between cylinder 1 and 2) is the curroded one... how do I replace it, or do I live with it?

~Nate

How many miles are on this engine? How much blowby does it have? Is it possible it is just worn out and has low enough compression to cause hard starting?
It's my understanding that the plug nearest the firewall gets 12 volts when the glow plugs are on and passes this current through the heavy W wires to each plug and finally from the final plug at the front of the engine thru a ground wire to the block. As long as that circuit is functioning, your glow plugs should be working. If they burned your fingers, they are working.
I'm beginning to think you need to do a compression test to asses the general condition of the engine before going much further.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

it has a confermed 130,000 miles on it, because before it hit 100k my dad replaced the origional spedometer, which I still have. What is got gowing rate on a diesel compression tester, and how does one do that?

Thank you
~Nate

I would like to point out it is as unforgivable to change to the new style glow plugs and key start as it is to put a small block Chevy engine in. You also risk theft of the vehicle because now your average person can figure out how to start the bloody thing. The risk of damage to your tendons from holding the pull start out while you wait for the glow plugs to heat up has been blown all out of proportion. You should also be aware if you do so your passport will no longer be valid in Germany.
Dave S

Actually the '75 and '76 were the first diesels to have a key start. At this point a gorilla knob would be a retrofit.

__________________
'84 190d 2.2 - Silver
Converted to 5-Speed
'84 190d 2.2 - Blue
Factory 5-Speed

'76 300D (W115)
Sold, found again in less auspicious circumstances

My 1976 240D has the pull start I know it is not a 240D engine in it though and no one has been able to tell me what engine it is by the plate number except Phil at fast lane said it was some euro engine the dealer gave me a blank look after running the ID plate #. So I went out and looked at the pull start and while it is a great job there are hints that it is a retrofit.
Any how I really love the quirkiness of the pull start and cant Wait for the night the big black curser blocks me in a parking spot I want to see the look on the officers face when he ask what I am doing sitting in the parking lot well officer I am waiting for my glow plugs to heat up. I will probably look like Rodney king after that thanks for letting me know my car is even stranger than I thought. On the 75-76 does it still take 45 seconds or so to heat the glow pugs up?
Dave S

Whoops, my mistake, the '75 & '76 240d had the gorilla knobs. You're not so wierd afterall.

45 sec is about right, my relay is stuck so I just count to fifty and fire away.

__________________
'84 190d 2.2 - Silver
Converted to 5-Speed
'84 190d 2.2 - Blue
Factory 5-Speed

'76 300D (W115)
Sold, found again in less auspicious circumstances

I do like that pull start knob - and I still have the series wired glow plugs and don't want to change them (the glowing filament in the dash indicator is too cool to lose).

My '76 240D now always starts in just one second of cranking, warm or cold (though the weather is pretty warm still), now that I finally got a fuel leak fixed. I had to have the fuel system pressurized to find it.

I wouldn't be surprised if Nate's problem with the 300D is fuel system related...check all lines and fittings, primer pump, tightness of fuel filters, etc. Previously, after a lot of pumping on the manual primer (which had also been leaking until I replaced it with the new style) I could get my car to start faster, but it would lose prime when sitting and sometimes would stall right after starting.

From all my reading on this board, it sounds like starting problems can also be caused by a burned glow plug fuse or failed relay (cars with the pull-start don't have those), tight valves, low battery, weak starter, poor compression, bad injector timing, dirty injectors, blown head gasket, stuck shut off valve on injection pump, plugged fuel tank vent, diesel fungus/algae in fuel tank, gasoline (!) in fuel tank...probably other things but I can't remember...

-AC

Well It does have the key start... So yeah, any moron can do it... It also stays on for 45ish secends... Do the plugs continue to glow when I leave it the key in that position after the light goes out?

I just ordered both fuel filters, and a voltage regulater (lights dim at idle)... I hope that fixes the problem... IF not, I should replace the fuel lines, right?

How do I prime the system after a filter change? and what is a sutibal (sp) replacement for fuel lines...

NOW since FINALLY a fuel problem is suspected, I noticed that there is a little bit of air in the line <1/8" per line between the injectors... HOW do I get rid of that without using the hand primer (which apparently wears out after a few uses)

Thanks a ton, now I'm getting somewhere
~Nate