DANG. can't break this caliper retaining bolt. - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Ara T. · #46 10-16-2005, 11:47 PM

1500 pound jackstands? You damn well should be scared.... I wouldn't go under there with those.

t walgamuth · #47 10-16-2005, 11:59 PM

talk about blocks at all, but if stuck with using them:
1. use only sand and gravel blocks...no lightweights.
2. put them with the holes vertically as brian noted above.
3. always put a piece of 2x8 on top to distribute the load. a point load will shatter them.
4. put the thick side up.

i now have good jackstands. thick ones with forged ratchet areas. the weld ed band goes around the outside of the legs. the center tube is not seamed.

back in my days of having to budget each week for the parts for my 62 fintail i always used concrete blocks. for at least 20 years i did. never had a failure.

use good jackstands if you can afford them.

also when working under a car that has some wheels off i usually throw one or two under it to catch it if all else fails.

tom w

Glinko · #48 10-17-2005, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

also when working under a car that has some wheels off i usually throw one or two under it to catch it if all else fails.

tom w

QFT.

t walgamuth · #49 10-17-2005, 12:54 AM

means? quick f---ing thinking? quality f ing thinking?

tom w

leathermang · #50 10-17-2005, 08:54 AM

" use only sand and gravel blocks...no lightweights."--Tom

Tom, is the word you are looking for " concrete" ?

DieselCJ · #51 10-17-2005, 09:40 AM

I read this whole thread and did not see any mention of why the caliper (s) would be bad as a result of attempting to remove them

To get my fronts off I had to stand on a 3' bar with the wheel turned. I could have tried the 1/2" impact (IR231), but that even has trouble with stuff that requires a 3' breaker bar. Try a long bar, it should either loosen the bolt or break it off. PB Blaster can help, as well as the shocking method (tapping head with hammer).

BTW, using anything other than a tool designed to support a vehicle is short sighted. Here are 6-ton stands sold at Sears for $35.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00950150000&bidsite=CRAFT

-John

t walgamuth · #52 10-17-2005, 10:03 AM

now we are into my specialized field. all concrete blocks are 'concrete'. some , made with lightweight aggregate are called 'lightweight'. lightweights might used where they are laid off scaffold and are typically just infill and not supporting the weight of anything except themselves. they are easier to lay and get up on scaffolds, etc. because of their lighter weight. 'sand and gravel' blocks are used where strength is important. they have a smoother texture and are much less spongelike. and of course are heavier. a sand and gravel block may weigh as much as 80# for a 12". all a strong young man wants to carry, one in each hand. i can remember when i did... all day. and slept well at night.

btw, asphalt paving, technically is concrete as well. it is properly called 'ashphaltic concrete'.

concrete is defined loosley as a mixture of different materials. as opposed to 'cement' which is an ingredient in 'concrete'. the gravel in concrete is reffered in the industry as 'aggregate'.

but i ramble.

tom w

boneheaddoctor · #53 10-17-2005, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

They usually "shatter" when they are used improperly. When folks set the vehicle on the smooth flat surface of the block, this is the invitation to disaster.

If you use a cement block, set the wheel or the load on the sides with the open holes. You won't shatter one that way.

They will take the load of 10 vehicles and have no problems with it.

Brian..what I was trying to say was the wholes were at the top and bottom...not the sides...these were on a cement garage floor...there was a piece of 2X8 or 2x10 laying over that...the car rested upon this. in front of those I hat a stack of the same type of pushed in after car was lowered...

I was under the engine and transaxel yanking on some bolt when the one block shattered...and car dropped 1/2" till it rested on the wood...now that will make your sphincter pucker up....the other block busted when I was jacking the other side up to put more wood under it...

Like I said I have been doinmg this since I was 11....this was the very first time this happened...made me damned glad I put the wood under it too.

Forever changed my mind about using those to support a car.. I will never use these again...

They may hold up a house but they are dangerous under a car.

leathermang · #54 10-17-2005, 10:32 AM

Tom, I was being funny about your description... lacking a BINDER.... you were using an accepted Jargon where others you deal with would know the difference...
but the sentence read funny... "use only sand and gravel blocks" as if you did not need cement in the mix..

Brian Carlton · #55 10-17-2005, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

Brian..what I was trying to say was the wholes were at the top and bottom...not the sides...these were on a cement garage floor...there was a piece of 2X8 or 2x10 laying over that...the car rested upon this. in front of those I hat a stack of the same type of pushed in after car was lowered...

Now that's a scary thought.

Never in my life would I expect a cement block to fail in the manner that you have described. The block is in 100% compression. It has massive load capability under this conditon. I can't figure out how it could have failed???

I routinely use the cement blocks because you can get a decent supporting area for use on the body. The top of the jackstands cannot provide this. The wood that sits on the jackstand is typically mashed to 1/2 of it's original thickness. I worry that the wood will split from the loading.

Any chance that they were the "lightweight" blocks that Tom mentioned??

boneheaddoctor · #56 10-17-2005, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Now that's a scary thought.

Never in my life would I expect a cement block to fail in the manner that you have described. The block is in 100% compression. It has massive load capability under this conditon. I can't figure out how it could have failed???

I routinely use the cement blocks because you can get a decent supporting area for use on the body. The top of the jackstands cannot provide this. The wood that sits on the jackstand is typically mashed to 1/2 of it's original thickness. I worry that the wood will split from the loading.

Any chance that they were the "lightweight" blocks that Tom mentioned??

I've routinely did this too...since I was 11.....being as I am 44 you can see thats a lot of years. I'd say the block was 20 years old and had been in the garage since it was built...he had some others there too....this was a 12" thick block....and weighty...so no I do not believe it was a lightweight one. Thats beefier than most houses use in their foundations...8-10" is whats common on the older houses.

I almost didn't use the wood stack...the guy who owned the car insisted upon it...first time I have seen that happen too.....and this was a clean nearly new block...not an old one thats been in the weather for 40+ years...

Like I said....it causes some serious sphincter puckering when the car suddenly drops 1/2 to 1 " when the oil pan is only 6 inches from your face to begin with.

leathermang · #57 10-17-2005, 02:40 PM

Cinder blocks can sure do that... had one explode under a house up front when being installed.
I can't imagine concrete blocks doing this.. but they can break and crush if the holes and load are not vertical.

boneheaddoctor · #58 10-17-2005, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Cinder blocks can sure do that... had one explode under a house up front when being installed.
I can't imagine concrete blocks doing this.. but they can break and crush if the holes and load are not vertical.

my point being having TWO means to support the car is essential....and the jack should never be one of those.

and be damned careful what they are made from too...cement blocks like used in house foundations are not as strong as you think wich is something I found out..

Glinko · #59 10-17-2005, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

means? quick f---ing thinking? quality f ing thinking?

tom w

QFT = Quoted For Truth.

Autozone sells refurbished calipers for 30-80 dollars depending on the brand.

How do I tell what brand my calipers are? I looked on them and all I can find are numbers and junk.

Brian Carlton · #60 10-17-2005, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glinko

QFT = Quoted For Truth.

Autozone sells refurbished calipers for 30-80 dollars depending on the brand.

How do I tell what brand my calipers are? I looked on them and all I can find are numbers and junk.

You don't need to worry about it. Just change both calipers on the same axle and you can put either ATE or Bendix on the vehicle. Both will work just fine.

If you are only changing one of them, I'd match it to the photos that you can find on Fastlane, right on this site. There are good photos of both the Bendix and the ATE.