DANG. can't break this caliper retaining bolt. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Glinko · #1 10-16-2005, 08:03 PM

I doused the bugger in WD-40 and let it sit. I've tried using a box wrench and a mallet to break it, but it just won't budge. My father says to get a breaker bar, and put a piece of pipe over the handle to add leverage.

Any advice on this one?

I managed to get the right caliper off. I took one look at it and went

, I showed it to my father and he just shook his head and said "I'm not paying for it."

I guess if I'm replacing one caliper, I need to do them both... Sigh... 177 dollars a piece from the Performance Products magazine.

Does anybody know where I could get new calipers for an 82 240d, for a lower price?

thanks to you ahead of time. *hugz*

boneheaddoctor · #2 10-16-2005, 08:05 PM

Try PB Blast alternating with heat and tapping with a hammer....far, far better than WD-40

Glinko · #3 10-16-2005, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

Try PB Blast alternating with heat and tapping with a hammer....far, far better than WD-40

PB Blast? What is this, that you speak of?

Also, for heat, could I simply use a bernz-o-matic?

boneheaddoctor · #4 10-16-2005, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glinko

PB Blast? What is this, that you speak of?

Also, for heat, could I simply use a bernz-o-matic?

its a brand name penitrating lube, arguible the best one availible, or one of the best. Look for it at home depot or major auto parts stores.

berzomatic is fine for heat...you need to use common sense what is too much.

WD-40 is more of a general purpose lubricant...this tuff is made for rusted fittings. heat..whack ....wait a moment then spray...repeat as needed..

leathermang · #5 10-16-2005, 08:16 PM

Why would a fluid RUN INTO a tight space like that by just being sprayed on it?
If you actually need to get something into that thread... you need to get something like a thumb cover used for counting paper... RTV it around the head bolt... leave overnight to cure, cut a hole in the upper part to put the PB Blaster ( WD 40 is not a lubricate... it is a water displacer technically )... let that sit overnight useing hydraulic pressure ( even though small ) to get it to soak in.
Then get a bigger cheater bar.

boneheaddoctor · #6 10-16-2005, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Why would a fluid RUN INTO a tight space like that by just being sprayed on it?
If you actually need to get something into that thread... you need to get something like a thumb cover used for counting paper... RTV it around the head bolt... leave overnight to cure, cut a hole in the upper part to put the PB Blaster ( WD 40 is not a lubricate... it is a water displacer technically )... let that sit overnight useing hydraulic pressure ( even though small ) to get it to soak in.
Then get a bigger cheater bar.

the heat and hammer with help seperate the rusted joint...the heat will help it wick into it....been doing it this way for 30 years..don't push too hard and strip head off bolt...it will move when its ready..without stripping. I only strip things when I get impatient.

Glinko · #7 10-16-2005, 08:21 PM

K.

thnx gurus.

Brian Carlton · #8 10-16-2005, 08:23 PM

The cap screws that hold the caliper are torqued to 80 ft-lb. To remove them, you will likely need somewhere near 140 ft.-lb. They are beefy screws and can handle this torque.

The problem is that you cannot.

When you are underneath the vehicle, it's almost impossible to apply 100 ft.-lb. torque. The only way to do it is to lie beneath the wrench and force it upward. It's not possible to do it while attempting to force it downward.

Don't be afraid to use a 24" extension. It will need to protrude forward underneath the front bumper. You may only get the bolt to budge due to lack of room, but, that's all you want. It's preferable to use two men for this. One on the end of the bar and one holding the socket on the cap screw so that it does not come off while the torque it applied.

Most of the larger parts stores can get the caliper at a reasonable price. Should not be more than about $80. or so. AutoZone is probably a decent bet.

You can also consider these fellows:

http://www.brakewarehouse.com/

SD Blue · #9 10-16-2005, 08:25 PM

Are the calipers stuck to one side, over-extended or cracked dust boots on the pistons? You did not mention why they needed replacement.

Fastlane has rebuilt ones for $87 each. You will also need to note whether they are Bendix or ATE brand. Look for a stamp in the metal on the side.

leathermang · #10 10-16-2005, 08:25 PM

We have different levels of mechanical and metal knowledge here on the forum..
To just say " heat ".... leaves the possibility that someon will overdo it and affect the strength of these heat treated bolts... rather critical bolts at that...
So if some other method is available I think it is better to suggest that.

Glinko · #11 10-16-2005, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD Blue

Are the calipers stuck to one side, over-extended or cracked dust boots on the pistons? You did not mention why they needed replacement.

Fastlane has rebuilt ones for $87 each. You will also need to note whether they are Bendix or ATE brand. Look for a stamp in the metal on the side.

EDIT: The dust boots are F'ed up. And, um...yeah, one of the pistons is stuck. I dunno, I guess the piston can be fixed with some emery cloth or something...can I replace or fix the dust boots?

@ Brian Carlton: It is the rear caliper. Sorry, I forgot to specify.

I'll try Autozone, see how much they want for it.

jbaj007 · #12 10-16-2005, 08:28 PM

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Hatterasguy · #13 10-16-2005, 08:31 PM

Fastlane has the rear calipers for that car for $81 each.

Anyway WD-40 is junk PB blaster is the best way to go. Soak the bolt and put the biggest breaker bar on it you can fit.

I am spoiled, I would take out the impact gun and crank that thing up to its highest torque setting. I have yet to come accross a bolt that it won't either snap or break free.

boneheaddoctor · #14 10-16-2005, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

We have different levels of mechanical and metal knowledge here on the forum..
To just say " heat ".... leaves the possibility that someon will overdo it and affect the strength of these heat treated bolts... rather critical bolts at that...
So if some other method is available I think it is better to suggest that.

I was assuming the individual wasn't trying to heat it long enough for it to glow...ergo why I said to use common sense...but you are right...that does vary greatly from individual to individual.

leathermang · #15 10-16-2005, 08:31 PM

"The only way to do it is to lie beneath the wrench and force it upward."

Yall are working too hard...

Place the wrench handle in a direction where you can put a scissors jack or hydraulic jack under it...

At some point yall will be too old ( but much smarter ) to use force under a car that way....