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  #31  
Old 10-24-2005, 11:31 AM
diametricalbenz's Avatar
The Crowbar of Embriage
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Marietta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiceCakes619
Lifter noise? what's that?... ok i'm going to read that old thread now!
As I recall that car had a noticeable tick to the motor. Take two screwdrivers and hit the shafts together rapidly and it sounds something like that.

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  #32  
Old 10-24-2005, 12:39 PM
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Dieseldiehard
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area No Calif.
Posts: 4,368
Quote:
Originally Posted by RiceCakes619
When I'm in the bay I'll send you a message =D I'll buy you a drink to while I'm at it!

Oh, I figure my engine's just loud cause diesels are like that lol...

I finished reading the other thread, what would I do with my bowden cable?
The 603 is unlike earlier diesels in that it sounds sort of like a cackle. Its not a loud engine if running properly. Let me know if you're in the Bay Area and you can listen to my '87 - no lifter noise because new lifters . Maybe Sixto and you and me can meet up somewhere. Well, it still makes a slight tapping when first started cold, but it goes away when warm.
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!
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  #33  
Old 10-24-2005, 07:44 PM
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Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 86
Trap Oxidezer recall

Is there a trap oxidizer recall and replacement on the 1987 300 SDL?
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"Sustained superior performance through continuous incremental improvement."

1987 300SDL White w/ Gray Leather interior, 160K (mine)
2009 Nissan Murano (leased - wife's)
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  #34  
Old 10-25-2005, 02:06 AM
Noob with Big Dreams
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 93
I had someone call a dealer for me and he got the run around and then he was told he can register for service online? I couldn't find that anywhere though, but I'll keep searching.

Now that I got that hose replace theres a HUGE difference in performace =D... one day I hope I can get the same power as my old 91 camero out of my car

I can't wait to see what taking off this trap oxidizer.


So yeah as soon as my car going veggie I'm coming to the bay! We'll do food or something =D
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  #35  
Old 10-25-2005, 02:12 AM
Noob with Big Dreams
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto
If the shifting feels okay to you, there's nothing to do with the Bowden cable. The Bowden cable is how the engine communicates load to the transmission. If your foot is deep into the pedal, the Bowden cable 'tells' the transmission to hold the gear longer.

Sixto
87 300SDL

It lurchs slightly, but I kinda like that feeling I get to pretend I'm going really fast being that my speedometer's broke =P haha
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  #36  
Old 10-25-2005, 11:18 AM
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Red Pike, yes, an 87 SDL would be subject to free removal of the trap oxidizer.

Sixto
87 300SDL
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  #37  
Old 10-25-2005, 11:28 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2000
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Rough or stiff shifting can mean a vacuum leak between the vacuum amplifier and the transmission and/or a mis-adjusted vacuum modulator on the side of the tranmission. On the driver's side of the transmission there's a round device (usually green) to which a vacuum line attaches. Check that the vacuum line is in good shape from the transmission to the flying saucer looking thing under the hood. You can check upstream of the flying saucer but it gets complicated and I haven't heard of more severe problems than broken or missing vacuum lines.

The vacuum modulator on the transmission has a black cap about 1cm in diameter right in the center. Remove the cap to expose the adjuster. The proper way to adjust the modulator is with pressure gauges hooked up to the transmission and with the car in motion. Regular folks pull the t-handle and move it one notch CW or CCW. I think CW makes shifts stiffer and CCW makes shifts softer. MB 722.3 and 722.4 transmissions aren't smooth shifters by nature. Feels like a 90s Honda AT at best. You can use the modulator to smooth shifts but you'll reduce transmission life. Definitely don't go more than a notch or two in either direction without proper guidance. Note that a common trick is to stiffen shifts to mask shift flaring, a kind of extended shift sequence indicating transmission wear. There should be no ATF leaking from the modulator (duh).

Sixto
87 300SDL
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  #38  
Old 10-25-2005, 11:31 AM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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Location: Eastern TN
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diehard, I installed new lifters with the new head. I stupidly did not check the new lifters before dropping them in the bores. Even more stupidly threw out the box with the old lifters.

Sixto
87 300SDL
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  #39  
Old 10-25-2005, 11:37 AM
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Dieseldiehard
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area No Calif.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto
diehard, I installed new lifters with the new head. I stupidly did not check the new lifters before dropping them in the bores. Even more stupidly threw out the box with the old lifters.

Sixto
87 300SDL
what are you saying, that one of the new lifters was bad? They should be hard when pushed. I threw out my old ones too. I'm certain most were still ok, but who would put a 260K mile lifter back in an engine? as long as you have them out its time to replace them all unless you know for certain they are low mileage. AT least that is my reasoning. Still, its 20 bucks a pop!
I never had any problems with new lifters but someone on the Forum claimed they were replacing some of the replacements a few months later. Maybe their oil was dirty? I only run synthetic in mine. Amsoil.
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  #40  
Old 10-25-2005, 11:43 AM
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Dieseldiehard
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area No Calif.
Posts: 4,368
Quote:
Originally Posted by RiceCakes619
I had someone call a dealer for me and he got the run around and then he was told he can register for service online? I couldn't find that anywhere though, but I'll keep searching.

Now that I got that hose replace theres a HUGE difference in performace =D... one day I hope I can get the same power as my old 91 camero out of my car

I can't wait to see what taking off this trap oxidizer.

So yeah as soon as my car going veggie I'm coming to the bay! We'll do food or something =D
OK, looking forward to meeting you up here sometime!
Let us know how that online registration works out, I'd just call them and tell them what you want (an appointment for the trap oxidizer campaign). They might give you a new turbo in the process!
Hopefully your performance will come close to a Camaro but in much finer style (ASB, SRS, aerodynamis etc.) and with much better fuel mileage plus the possibility of running veggie. Are you going to have it converted by someone or DIY?
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!
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  #41  
Old 10-26-2005, 12:24 AM
Noob with Big Dreams
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldiehard
OK, looking forward to meeting you up here sometime!
Let us know how that online registration works out, I'd just call them and tell them what you want (an appointment for the trap oxidizer campaign). They might give you a new turbo in the process!
Hopefully your performance will come close to a Camaro but in much finer style (ASB, SRS, aerodynamis etc.) and with much better fuel mileage plus the possibility of running veggie. Are you going to have it converted by someone or DIY?

Ok so I need to call the MB tech center between 9am-5pm eastern time. I can't wait till tomorrow morning then! =D

Yes way more style! =D I can't wait till everything I plan is done on the car. If I could drift it too oh man... I think everyone would bow before my car =P

The conversion will be done by my mechanic. Been the family mechanic for years. We buy cars off of him too so I hope my trust is in the right place for this project.
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  #42  
Old 10-26-2005, 12:27 AM
Noob with Big Dreams
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto
Rough or stiff shifting can mean a vacuum leak between the vacuum amplifier and the transmission and/or a mis-adjusted vacuum modulator on the side of the tranmission. On the driver's side of the transmission there's a round device (usually green) to which a vacuum line attaches. Check that the vacuum line is in good shape from the transmission to the flying saucer looking thing under the hood. You can check upstream of the flying saucer but it gets complicated and I haven't heard of more severe problems than broken or missing vacuum lines.

The vacuum modulator on the transmission has a black cap about 1cm in diameter right in the center. Remove the cap to expose the adjuster. The proper way to adjust the modulator is with pressure gauges hooked up to the transmission and with the car in motion. Regular folks pull the t-handle and move it one notch CW or CCW. I think CW makes shifts stiffer and CCW makes shifts softer. MB 722.3 and 722.4 transmissions aren't smooth shifters by nature. Feels like a 90s Honda AT at best. You can use the modulator to smooth shifts but you'll reduce transmission life. Definitely don't go more than a notch or two in either direction without proper guidance. Note that a common trick is to stiffen shifts to mask shift flaring, a kind of extended shift sequence indicating transmission wear. There should be no ATF leaking from the modulator (duh).

Sixto
87 300SDL


I look like this ">_<" reading that post but I know what to ask an expert once I take the car in. This forums amazing I swear. I feel like I'm in a very mature community. It's great!

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