Hi, I'm a new 1987 300D owner and new at looking under the hood of anything!
 

Please help I'm desperate! So far I've spent 12 hours reading the forums and using the search as well as 6 hours on google looking up what my ALDA is. I found this link:

http://www.mindspring.com/~houlihan/merc/banjo.htm

and tried to clean my banjo bolt. Inadvertantly I tore a hose while trying to get to my SOV. Here are some pics of the damage and other questions:

(BTW I hope no one mines these large photo files I want to be as detailed as possible I know how some forums can be I really don't want to piss anyone off as a noob >_< OH and does anyone have a working link for this site? http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/OM603_injection ?)

http://www.thebubblegumproject.com/DSC06571.JPG

Here are the pieces I was fiddling with I was trying to follow this guy's instructions

http://www.mindspring.com/~houlihan/merc/banjo.htm

and I was able to clean the "banjo bolt" though it wasn't really tarred up or anything. The problem happened when I did this:

"If you follow the line from the intake manifold and find
a funny looking box on the firewall with vacuum tubes
and electrical wiring running into it.....clean this out as
well. My car doesn't have this "switchover valve" but
this is also a big contributor to performance loss."

This is my SOV right? (and do I have to unmount it to clean it off? Do I clean inside of it?)

http://www.thebubblegumproject.com/DSC06591.JPG

I was assuming that to clean this thing I would have to take off the hose like with the banjo bolt but I ended up rupturing the innertube while trying to remove one of the clamps.

http://www.thebubblegumproject.com/DSC06573.JPG

argh it's broken! =(

SO the question is, can I go to kragen and get some hose and some sort of connector to attatch it back or do I have to get some sort of specialty hose? If I can buy a part from there, which connector thing do I ask for? Oh and the bonus question:

http://www.thebubblegumproject.com/DSC06587.JPG

Is this my alda?


Thanks in advance for any info. Everyone is really informative here, real nice community. I'm just horrible at anything mechanical. If my 300D was a computer I wou'dnt be having any problems haha. Please treat me like I'm 11 years old on this one. My head spins reading the forums but I'm trying because like everyone else here I really <3 my car. I have a couple other minor questions I'll save for later, but for now I can't drive anywhere and just like to make it out tonight (I think?)

SMALLER PICTURES, PLEASE!!!

I might be able to help you if I can see what you've posted.

Sixto
87 300SDL

The hose does look broken. No biggie. You can use regular vacuum hose as long as it's a snug fit. Originally it had a stiff plastic hose with only enough rubber hose for unions.

That's the switchover valve. The bottom nipple should connect to the ALDA.

That's the ALDA.

That's not the original shut-off valve. My replacement shut-off valve is plastic too.

For the link, contact a user who goes by gsxr. That's his website.

BTW, there is no banjo fitting for the boost signal system in an 87 300TD. There's a barbed fitting the screws directly into the manifold, not through a banjo fitting.

Sixto
87 300SDL

You can get the plastic hose from an MB or VW dealer. I don't think they stock color coded hose. The boost signal doesn't care :)

Sixto
87 300SDL

I just realized... can't I just get one huge piece of tube instead of dealing with three different tubing pieces?

Oh and how the hell do I reach my alda then? My car needs a tweak so bad.

Thanks for the quick reply's, I had no idea I have no Banjo... I'm such a noob >_<

Regular rubber hose will work. It might be a problem when you get to 2 bar :)

Get two very slim 24mm(?) wrenches and undo the retainer holding the ALDA to the IP. With the ALDA off the car you can tweak the set screw (CCW for more fuel) or add shims between the ALDA and IP like gsxr does.

Sixto
87 300SDL

Welcome to the 124 300D turbo world, that is a miraculous car if its running properly and treated well.
Before you go any further, a Question.
Does your car still have the Trap Oxidizer in the exhaust? It's a football shaped metal can behind the turbo before the exhaust downpipe.
If so, that needs to be removed as they are prone to plugging and the factory will replace it under a warranty recall, actually they will install a CAT device under the car and bypass the Trap.
The symptoms of sluggish engine can also be attributed to a sticky wastegate flapper in the turbo. And a plugged fuel filter.
The hoses are available through Fastlane, you probably need to call Phil and describe the hoses, the clips are necessary to prevent the injector lines from vibrating against each other and the brackets and wearing through, a common problem in this model with the thin metal lines.

OK first, what's bar 2? (that was posted maybe two posts above)

Thanks, I have so many plans for the car but I figure I should start with repairing things/small upgrades first. Is this what you were talking about?

http://www.thebubblegumproject.com/PICT0021.jpg

(I tried taking a smaller size pic... I don't think it came out that much smaller oops) Football shapped thing? I'm not sure where my turbo is at because I thought turbo's looked like snails and I don't see anything like that.

Factory warranty recall? So does that mean I go to a dealer for that?

I feel like I'm asking really bad embaressing questions. Thanks soooooo much.

oh yeah, how do i clean my waste gate flapper and what does it look like?

Why two wrenches? I see it being connected by a huge nut at the bottom, is this normal?

The exhaust manifold runners collect around the #6 cylinder and terminate in a flange pointing up. A pipe covered with perforated foil connects to the flange and to the turbo at the other end. If the pipe is more than 4" in diameter, it's a trap oxidizer and should be replaced by MB under recall. You can see if MB will sell you a replacement crossover pipe but it'll be at your cost. MB is under obligation to replace that crossover pipe, inspect the turbo and replace if necessary, and replace the downpipe with a pipe with an oxidation catalyst device (looks like a gasser catalytic converter). I highly doubt they will give you the parts at no cost.

Bar is a metric unit of pressure. 2 bar is about 30 psi [corrected, I said 15 psi previously]. My point was that I would be careful about what rubber hose I used as a boost signal line beyond 15 psi. MB used plastic line for a reason

If you turn the big nut, the ALDA will turn with it. The second wrench is to hold flats in the case of the ALDA while you loosen the big nut.

I'm only familiar with the Garrett turbo. To inspect the wastegate flap you have to remove the down pipe then remove the tail housing of the turbo. Not terribly difficult if you soak the nuts and bolts in penetrating oil the day before you begin work. Working on a hot engine should help... loosen bolts, not your skin.

I don't know how a KKK turbo looks. I think it has an external wastegate vs the internal wastegate of the Garrett.

Sixto
87 300SDL

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH


=D


I feel like someone just told me the world is round when I thought it was flat. I feel enlightened. At least until I do something crazy like attempt to upgrade the turbo. I'm going to the part store BRB.

I feel like I should send you a present sixto haha

What You have in that last picture is definitely the trap oxidizer still in the car. Get that replaced soon and You'll get a new exhaust and be rewarded with extra power and fuel economy

Oh no =( I thought so! How much did it cost people to get that replaced/serviced? Can I remove it with out getting

AH so right now I'm running with tubes with no plastic linning I'm scared something will explode. Sigh, next paycheck I'll call up these diesel guys in el cajon. I hope I can make it to work in this condition >_<

Thus far MB has been honoring the recall at no charge. If you're really lucky you'll get a new turbo out of it.

The trick is to keep the downpipe without oxidizer catalyst. There's a line of 87 300D/TD owners waiting to buy it if you don't want it... assuming MB lets you keep it.

Sixto
87 300SDL

Drive your car to the nearest MB dealership and tell them all the guys at Mercedeshop sent you. Then tell them you want to take advantage of the "Recall Campaign" for the Trap Oxidizer on your 87 300D. They may replace the entire exhaust system from the turbo charger back to the tailpipe, FREE! Lucky You...... :eek:

OMG I hope so! well I'll try to stop in monday after work or tomorrow. I'll let everyonhe know what happens =D

RiceCakes619, I am going to go out on a limb here, by chance is your car burgundy with tan interior with ~260K miles on it and you bought it in the SD area? Just curious :)

WHOA NO WAY you are a mind reader... or you know something I dont =P


The car was actually 258,000 when we bought it off craigslist hehe.


I think I'll call a dealer before showing up. I'm still recovering from last night Confused :confused:

Yup, just as I thought, yours still has the trap in it!
I see these occasionally. Even on eBay I've seen diesels now and then listed that still have the nasty trap!
I don't think MB sent a recall notice, they may just wait until the car goes into their shop for poor acceleration or something, then they offer to replace it, I might be wrong however, as notices would never make it to the second owners unless they took the car to the dealer and had the ownership records updated.
When you call the dealer, ask for the service manager if the person you are speaking with doesn't know what you are talking about :rolleyes: Its the Service Campaign they call it. You can find the number if you use the search feaure.
Have the VIN number handy as they need that to check the database for recalls.
Let us know how it turns out. And if they let you keep the old exhaust pipes yes like sixto said there are several people waiting to buy the front section of the old pipe in case you don't want to reinstall it (and sell the CAT)

thanks guys you're the greatest. I'll look up the vin and all that when I can... I'm still at this party aftermath >_<

Turbocharger Wastegate Adjustment:
 

Turbocharger Wastegate Adjustment:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/114337-turbocharger-wastegate-adjustment.html

Banjo Bolt
 

Banjo Bolt
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=733935&posted=1#post733935

Yep! I knew it....I figured you picked up the car since I remember seeing the oxidation on the engine aluminum and that is odd for a CA car cause there's no salt around LA. I test drove it in July 24th http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/129524-test-drove-87-300d-yesterday.html and at that time was owned by a 20 something guy who was living in the bay area who then moved to LA and was selling it for his grandfather in Arcadia. He wanted ~2800 for it at the time and I too was shocked to see the trap oxidizer in place which I presumed caused the lackuster acceleration. The car also had a ton of lifter noise (did the intermediate owners fix that?) and it has the #14 head :eek: Don't want to alarm you but just be aware of it. ;) I hadn't seen it again until recently on Craigslist in San Diego and I figured you're the new owner since I saw your thread yesterday and ID'ed it from the pictures. How's that for car sleuthing ;)

BTW how much did you pick it up for?

$3,000

what does #14 head mean?! I'm scared now...

Means the kind of cylinder head that's prone to developing cracks when the engine overheats.

Don't pull that "I didn't see it in the archives" line on us. That's the most common thing said about an 87 300D/TD. Earn some respect for yourself and read the archives :)

Sixto
87 300SDL

Lifter noise? what's that?... ok i'm going to read that old thread now!

If you're ever in the Bay Area come by and listen for yourself :/

Sixto
87 300SDL

When I'm in the bay I'll send you a message =D I'll buy you a drink to while I'm at it!

Oh, I figure my engine's just loud cause diesels are like that lol...

I finished reading the other thread, what would I do with my bowden cable?

If the shifting feels okay to you, there's nothing to do with the Bowden cable. The Bowden cable is how the engine communicates load to the transmission. If your foot is deep into the pedal, the Bowden cable 'tells' the transmission to hold the gear longer.

Sixto
87 300SDL

As I recall that car had a noticeable tick to the motor. Take two screwdrivers and hit the shafts together rapidly and it sounds something like that.

The 603 is unlike earlier diesels in that it sounds sort of like a cackle. Its not a loud engine if running properly. Let me know if you're in the Bay Area and you can listen to my '87 - no lifter noise because new lifters :) . Maybe Sixto and you and me can meet up somewhere. Well, it still makes a slight tapping when first started cold, but it goes away when warm.

Trap Oxidezer recall
 

Is there a trap oxidizer recall and replacement on the 1987 300 SDL?

I had someone call a dealer for me and he got the run around and then he was told he can register for service online? I couldn't find that anywhere though, but I'll keep searching.

Now that I got that hose replace theres a HUGE difference in performace =D... one day I hope I can get the same power as my old 91 camero out of my car :)

I can't wait to see what taking off this trap oxidizer.


So yeah as soon as my car going veggie I'm coming to the bay! We'll do food or something =D

It lurchs slightly, but I kinda like that feeling I get to pretend I'm going really fast being that my speedometer's broke =P haha

Red Pike, yes, an 87 SDL would be subject to free removal of the trap oxidizer.

Sixto
87 300SDL

Rough or stiff shifting can mean a vacuum leak between the vacuum amplifier and the transmission and/or a mis-adjusted vacuum modulator on the side of the tranmission. On the driver's side of the transmission there's a round device (usually green) to which a vacuum line attaches. Check that the vacuum line is in good shape from the transmission to the flying saucer looking thing under the hood. You can check upstream of the flying saucer but it gets complicated and I haven't heard of more severe problems than broken or missing vacuum lines.

The vacuum modulator on the transmission has a black cap about 1cm in diameter right in the center. Remove the cap to expose the adjuster. The proper way to adjust the modulator is with pressure gauges hooked up to the transmission and with the car in motion. Regular folks pull the t-handle and move it one notch CW or CCW. I think CW makes shifts stiffer and CCW makes shifts softer. MB 722.3 and 722.4 transmissions aren't smooth shifters by nature. Feels like a 90s Honda AT at best. You can use the modulator to smooth shifts but you'll reduce transmission life. Definitely don't go more than a notch or two in either direction without proper guidance. Note that a common trick is to stiffen shifts to mask shift flaring, a kind of extended shift sequence indicating transmission wear. There should be no ATF leaking from the modulator (duh).

Sixto
87 300SDL

diehard, I installed new lifters with the new head. I stupidly did not check the new lifters before dropping them in the bores. Even more stupidly threw out the box with the old lifters.

Sixto
87 300SDL

what are you saying, that one of the new lifters was bad? They should be hard when pushed. I threw out my old ones too. I'm certain most were still ok, but who would put a 260K mile lifter back in an engine? as long as you have them out its time to replace them all unless you know for certain they are low mileage. AT least that is my reasoning. Still, its 20 bucks a pop!
I never had any problems with new lifters but someone on the Forum claimed they were replacing some of the replacements a few months later. Maybe their oil was dirty? I only run synthetic in mine. Amsoil.

OK, looking forward to meeting you up here sometime!
Let us know how that online registration works out, I'd just call them and tell them what you want (an appointment for the trap oxidizer campaign). They might give you a new turbo in the process!
Hopefully your performance will come close to a Camaro but in much finer style (ASB, SRS, aerodynamis etc.) and with much better fuel mileage plus the possibility of running veggie. Are you going to have it converted by someone or DIY?

Ok so I need to call the MB tech center between 9am-5pm eastern time. I can't wait till tomorrow morning then! =D

Yes way more style! =D I can't wait till everything I plan is done on the car. If I could drift it too oh man... I think everyone would bow before my car =P

The conversion will be done by my mechanic. Been the family mechanic for years. We buy cars off of him too so I hope my trust is in the right place for this project.

I look like this ">_<" reading that post but I know what to ask an expert once I take the car in. This forums amazing I swear. I feel like I'm in a very mature community. It's great!