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  #1  
Old 10-24-2005, 06:06 PM
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How do you get to your rear wheel bearings?

This post is in reference to a 1983 300TD wagon with 322,000 miles.
I just determined that the rear driver's side wheel bearing is bad.

I removed the wheel, caliper, and rotor. How do you get to the wheel bearings? Thank you.

p.s. I'm really nervous about what I think the answer is...so please be gentle.
damon

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  #2  
Old 10-24-2005, 06:31 PM
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seriously...can anyone give me a quick answer here, please.
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Old 10-24-2005, 07:00 PM
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Like removing a bandaid there's no way to be gentle about this.

The bolt in the middle of the axle flange has to come out so you can remove the axle from the back of the flange. Then there's this neat slotted bolt that you need a "pin wrench socket" to remove, then a slide hammer and a better vocabulary than your average sailor! Axle flange and rear bearings were my first MB project and it was quite a learning experience. Good tools, lots of advice (my indie shared his Alldata pages), and a whole lot of patience won the day, but it was a fight. Not what I would recomend for a newbie (not you: me) Good luck!
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Old 10-24-2005, 07:30 PM
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Smile Patience please

I am searching, don't want to make another DIY at the moment.
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Old 10-24-2005, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNO TECH
Like removing a bandaid there's no way to be gentle about this.

The bolt in the middle of the axle flange has to come out so you can remove the axle from the back of the flange. Then there's this neat slotted bolt that you need a "pin wrench socket" to remove, then a slide hammer and a better vocabulary than your average sailor! Axle flange and rear bearings were my first MB project and it was quite a learning experience. Good tools, lots of advice (my indie shared his Alldata pages), and a whole lot of patience won the day, but it was a fight. Not what I would recomend for a newbie (not you: me) Good luck!
Thank you for the response.

I understand about removing the bolt in the middle of the axle flange in order to remove the halfshaft from the back of the flange.

So are you saying that you than replaced the rear wheel bearing from the back side of the flange, while it was still on the car?
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Old 10-24-2005, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter
I am searching, don't want to make another DIY at the moment.
Thanks Whunter! It's just that I get so excited about the prospect of a huge project that I don't have time to do.
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  #7  
Old 10-24-2005, 08:31 PM
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Try this one

87 300TD rear wheel Bearing (Help!)
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/11462-87-300td-rear-wheel-bearing-help-3.html#post994046
  #8  
Old 10-24-2005, 08:46 PM
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#2 worth looking at

noisy rear - proportional to car speed (W124 300D 2.5)?
noisy rear - proportional to car speed (W124 300D 2.5)?
  #9  
Old 10-25-2005, 08:34 AM
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So far from what I've gathered, to remove the rear wheel bearings you need to :

--- Lift the car, pull tire/caliper/rotor/, pull center halfshaft bolt, pull halfshaft out from behind.

Than, from behind the hub(from underneath the car) use a special pin wrench socket to remove a slotted nut of some sort. After that, use a slide hammer to get the old bearing assembly out.

Can anyone confirm that the above is correct of not? Is this something that can be done with the rear hub on the car, of do you have to drop the trailing arm to get it on the bench?(that of course would take hours more work).

Also, if you can do this project with the hub still on the car, how do you get the new bearing assembly back in? Thanks so much for the thoughts.
Damon
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  #10  
Old 10-25-2005, 11:55 AM
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additional info

IMO, definitely need the special tool to remove the lock ring from the rear of the hub. I used properly sized punches to get the races out with the hub in place. There's a collapsible brass piece that gets replaced and gets crushed when you reassemble..the special tool is needed so you can finely adjust the compression of the crush spacer ring using a breaker bar on the tool..too far and you've got to start over with a new one. Instructions call for measuring tools/runout but if you put the tire and wheel on, you can wiggle the wheel and tighten the rear lock ring until it just snugs up (like adjusting the front wheel bearings).

MikeL
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Old 10-31-2005, 02:08 AM
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Cool

[QUOTE=1983 300TD]So far from what I've gathered, to remove the rear wheel bearings you need to :
yes you got it but you also have to have inside pullers to get the races out and bearing pullers to get the bearings off the hub.and a press to push them on again.so its a big job.and mercedes gets $135 for a kit for each side.the locknut tool is $80. good luck
  #12  
Old 10-31-2005, 02:59 AM
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You are a kind man Whunter

Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter
I am searching, don't want to make another DIY at the moment.
See if I have this right.
1983 300TD states:
1. Help me !!!

2. I waited 25 minutes.... hurry up and help me.

3. I'm too lazy to use the search feature.

Did you not read the sticky about searching first or did you not understand it?
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  #13  
Old 11-06-2005, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tirebiter
See if I have this right.
1983 300TD states:
1. Help me !!!

2. I waited 25 minutes.... hurry up and help me.

3. I'm too lazy to use the search feature.

Did you not read the sticky about searching first or did you not understand it?

Wow. Guess I really struck a cord with tirebiter. I'm not too lazy to work on my car and do my own maintenance. And I'm certainly not too lazy and disrespectful of other peoples' time to ask questions that can easily be answered by going thru the archives. And I do appreciate the help of great guys like Whunter and other forum "heavies" that are so helpful and generous with their time, experience, and knowledge. So...I don't really know where that leaves Tirebiter. I can only assume that all the sunny, beautiful weather that he enjoys in Southern California and Hawaii has ruined his ability to enjoy life. Hey, how about wrapping up this thread!?

O.k. In my personal opinion, rear wheel bearings are not, as Whunter and others suggested, a DIY. At first I was very concerned because of some incorrect information that the entire trailing arm had to be removed to get at the hub. Interestingly enough, it was the Mercedes dealership that told me that. I had an independent do the job for me. He used a genuine Mercedes bearing package that cost $120. The job took him approx. 4 hours and the total cost was $380. The car is back to running great; no more metal on metal grinding coming from the rear. There we go. Thanks for all your help.
Damon

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