Voltage regulater replacement? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mgt83300D · #16 12-18-2005, 03:17 PM

I think my voltage regulator needs replacing. there's two available from Phil. One is a Bosch and the other is a German brand. Any thoughts on which is a better unit?

Diesel Giant · #17 12-18-2005, 03:23 PM

Did you make sure the alt belts were adjusted properly??

That will cause what you are speaking of also.

boneheaddoctor · #18 12-18-2005, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgt83300D

I think my voltage regulator needs replacing. there's two available from Phil. One is a Bosch and the other is a German brand. Any thoughts on which is a better unit?

I would assume Bosch is better but realisticly...either will do the job quite well.

I have two spare KAE regulators I bought for a real good price (too good to pass up in fact, Like $12 each)....I'm not concerned about them.

#19 12-18-2005, 07:42 PM

I ordered a Bosch VR from Phil on Friday. According to the local AZ, my alternator was only putting out about 6 amps. I try the VR first, hopefully I don't need and alternator.

dannym · #20 12-27-2005, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 190E-Bpy

If it's anything like the regulator on a 190E (1991) its simple but a pain to get at, if you have ramps I highly suggest using them, then again I'm unfamiliar with where your alternator is. On the back there should be 2 screws holding it in place, plus it is spring loaded...so it requires you to remove the 2 screws (maybe more on your model) and the old one will slide out...replace the new one in the same orientation align the screws and screw it in....viola..if it was the volt. reg. then you should see a nice rise in voltage across the terminals..otherwise replace the whole alternator if this didn't help.

best of luck

Is this what it looks like

if so just follow the directions...30 minutes if things go well, 1 hour if you're having trouble accessing it...just fiddly is all

So now my battery light is coming on. I wanted to know; is the regulator in this picture the regulator and brush pack or are the brushes sold seperately??
I think that's what I need, the light goes out at high RPM's.

Danny

#21 12-27-2005, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym

So now my battery light is coming on. I wanted to know; is the regulator in this picture the regulator and brush pack or are the brushes sold seperately??
I think that's what I need, the light goes out at high RPM's.

Danny

The unit shown in the photo is the entire voltage regulator, including brushes. It just screws into the back/bottom of the alternator.

#22 12-28-2005, 02:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym

So now my battery light is coming on. I wanted to know; is the regulator in this picture the regulator and brush pack or are the brushes sold seperately??
I think that's what I need, the light goes out at high RPM's.

Danny

When your light stops coming on and your dash lights dont come on (the brake pad, and other warning lights) when you are starting the car before cranking without the engine running...your brushes are literally worn down to the point tha they don't touch anymore..

Consider it getting dimmer at higher speeds a warning...you have about 50 miles left

dannym · #23 12-28-2005, 08:41 AM

Thanks for the response. I'm ordering one from Fastlane right now.

Danny

Oilbrnr · #24 01-03-2006, 03:00 PM

Do you need to zip tie the brushes down, or can the unit be 'fanigled' in there?

Also, is it possible to do this from the top on an '84 SD, or is below easier other than jacking the car up?

Sorry, I have yet to see the car or component placement...

#25 01-03-2006, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oilbrnr

Do you need to zip tie the brushes down, or can the unit be 'fanigled' in there?

Also, is it possible to do this from the top on an '84 SD, or is below easier other than jacking the car up?

Sorry, I have yet to see the car or component placement...

It does not HAVE to be zip tied...it can be done without. Just be careful not to force it and break a brush off its lead.

Its much easier to do from below...just jack the car up a bit and support it and crawl under there.

ALso you need a stubby screwdriver (phillips)

Oilbrnr · #26 01-03-2006, 03:56 PM

Would a rubber band work as well as a zip tie? Guess I'm just trying to envision enough clearance to get in there to cut the tie after the regulator is in place...

#27 01-03-2006, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oilbrnr

Would a rubber band work as well as a zip tie? Guess I'm just trying to envision enough clearance to get in there to cut the tie after the regulator is in place...

You really don't need to do anything fancy. I did this a couple of weeks ago. You just need to angle the brushes through the opening and gently push it into place. It will be clear once you get it apart. The hardest part is getting the screwdriver in place, I ended up using a screw bit with a small ratchet because I didn't have a short enough screwdriver.

Nate · #28 01-03-2006, 04:07 PM

Why bother with the zip tie or rubberband?

Just fanagle it in, it will find a spot where it likes... Adding another peice of rubber or plastic will just cause problems in an allready tight situation...

Your making it sound harder then it is, just do it... Old one out, new one in (with some fanageling)

~Nate

#29 01-04-2006, 01:29 AM

Yeah its really not that hard to get in without the holder stuff (rubberband, zip tie, etc)..

Some (most) alternators have the slip rings in the rear and they actually put ports on the back of the alternator for slipping a little pin through to hold the brushes down into the holder until you get the rotor into the housing.

THen you pull the pin out and then done!

This is a much easier job

Oilbrnr · #30 01-04-2006, 01:41 AM

I just wanted to make sure that I had what I needed to do the job.

I'm flying out to KS from AZ this Sat. to drive the SD back home, and I have limited time to do so. I've RnR'd plenty an internally reg'd Delco unit, but never this particular Bosch.

Sorry for the ignorance there Nate.