Hello, my order just came in for a new voltage regulater, and I dont have a clue how to put it in... The reason I need it is because my lights dim at idle, and the radio pops/fluxuates with cranking (same with lights too)

My uncle seamed to think it was the voltage regulator, so I got a new one. It said (when I ordered it) that it was an external regulater, but where is it? I cant see the back of the alternator too good, so I dont know where it would go?

The car is a 76 300d with the 617 OM, so I hope I dont break any bolts doing it, if I do, is there any problem with replacing a broken bolt with a similer one from a hardware store?

Thanks alot, I kinda need an answer by wendsday, and my neither of my VERY helpful books dont say anything...

~Nate

If it's anything like the regulator on a 190E (1991) its simple but a pain to get at, if you have ramps I highly suggest using them, then again I'm unfamiliar with where your alternator is. On the back there should be 2 screws holding it in place, plus it is spring loaded...so it requires you to remove the 2 screws (maybe more on your model) and the old one will slide out...replace the new one in the same orientation align the screws and screw it in....viola..if it was the volt. reg. then you should see a nice rise in voltage across the terminals..otherwise replace the whole alternator if this didn't help.

best of luck

Is this what it looks like



if so just follow the directions...30 minutes if things go well, 1 hour if you're having trouble accessing it...just fiddly is all

Yep, 2 screws on the back. Couldn't be simpler. Don't even have to remove the alternator from the engine, or even unplug it.

__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

1976 300D OM617
Alternator is right front of engine.
Regulator is on the rear.
Access it from the top.
Two screws, do not wreck the screws.
Fifteen minutes from start to finish on this job.

1984 300d Turbo 134k
Used A Tie Wrap To Hold The 2 Brushes In, Side In Cut Tie Wrap, Pull
Tie Wrap Out, And Install Two Screws Done Diy

I might save the old one as they are easily "rebuilt" if I could remember where I got the brushes Anyway save it for a spare, the brushes are available for a buck or so and its a good rainy day project.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

so I finally got the car on ramps (anyone with a non textured floor knows my pain) and just got a chance to look at the alternator... Heres what the back of it looks like.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/NathanEbert/benzanator.jpg
heres what the new voltage regulator looks like
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/NathanEbert/voltreg.jpg

I'm thinking its the bottom right one in the first pic, but I really dont know, and my manuals dont say anything

Is it the right part, because it looks totally different then anything on the alt, and has different numbers on the back (but same company)

Thanks alot
~Nate

Looks like the correct part.

Look at edit picture for location.

Attached Thumbnails

 

I guess I get to put the cover on it, now that I got it in there, and all screwed in... I didnt do any damage by taking it for a 10 min run without the cover on, did I? Also would it be bad if I ran <100 miles with it off when my grandparents are here?

As I mentioned i took it on a little run, and with the proper starting procediure (floor it when first cranking, lessen to 1/4 in a few sec...), it started up fine when it was cold... The problem is that I still have dim lights at idle, and I guess that means I get to replace the alt, right? Is there any reason,unless it craps out, to run it that said <100 miles without replacing it, even though it ranran a total of 300 miles in the past 2 years on that alternator?

So bacicly what I'm asking is what should I replace now (since the lights still dim), can I run without the cover on for less than 100 miles, and can I run that same less than 100 miles without replacing the alternator (provided it can still make the battery idiot light go off)

Thanks alot
~Nate

It is a weather cover.
Try to avoid deep water.

Darn I wanted to go muddin in it... thats accually a scary thought...

anyways I tried to take the "cover" off the old one, and couldnt do it because it looks like the hole for the screws to fit through has a sleave in it, that holds the cover on...

I think my alternators going, and i REALLY need a voltmeter... but it still charges above high idle, so its lower on the proiority list...

Thanks alot
~Nate

I am having problems on my '77 300D with the battery and desided to check the voltage regulater. Before I pulled it up the volts read 14 at a fast idle but only around 10 amps so I thought the regulater to be the problem. I pulled it out and found to brushes very worn down. I drove to Monument car parts to replace it and the volt meter I installed read 12 volts while driving. After buying the replacement part, I drove home and replaced it. But after starting it with the new voltage regulater, the gauge still read 12 volts. Im wondering if I put it in wrong or if there is a wire that is supposted to be connected to the regulater? I would hate for the alternater to be bad just cuz i removed the voltage regulater.

Did you remove the regulator with key on?
Did you drive to the parts store with the regulator removed?
Was the new regulator installed with key on?
Diesel Don had a problem that may be similar, his wires from alternator to fender terminal block where bad, it did cost him several regulators to figure this out.

No
No
And No
I bought a new alternator today and it was really cheap for the brand (Lucas reg. 109.00 i got it for 65.95 with 20.00 core) so ill try that tomorrow and see

Good price.