Dumb, Dumb, Dumb.
 

So I changed my oil in my 1982 300D the other day along with the fuel filter.

When starting up the car, it was stalling out a bit, probably due to a bit of air in the lines so I reved it a bit to clear the air...forgetting that I had just drained the oil and put new oil in.

Normally, I'd never rev the engine right after draining and filling the oil, in order to let the car gradually circulate the new oil..., but I managed to have a brain fart.

Well, I smelled burning oil for a couple of seconds and then all was fine, and it doesn't run any different. So, my question is what kind of damage could I have done, and is this something I can inspect when I adjust the valves (it will be my first time doing this), and what should I look for?

Am I just being overly concerned?

The oil pressure will come up within five seconds.

If you waited for five seconds, you are fine.

If you revved it before five seconds then the engine had to operate without oil pressure for a couple of seconds. It's able to do this and you did not cause any damage.

I trust that you didn't rev it to 3K rpm's in less than 5 seconds. ;)

I just reved it for a couple of seconds. It probably went to 3k, and I'm pretty sure I reved it within 5 seconds...that's when I noticed the brief burnt oil smell :(

Hopefully I've just learned a lesson and not taken off a few years of engine life.

the oil
 

smell was probably minor spillage on the exhaust.

i wouldn't worry if the oil pressure is ok.

tom w

Ahhh. I was so nervous about it that I forgot about the old "oil on the exhaust." That must have been it.

I once drained the oil in my Chrysler late on sunday. Went inside and had dinner, intending to finish up the oil change afterwards.
Well, I forgot, and went out to go to work monday morning just like normal. Started and backed out before I looked down to see a bright red "check gages" light on the dash! I remembered the oil right away.
Engine ran probably 10-15 sec with NO oil whatsoever, and I was running plain oil at the time, not synthetic.

That was over 60K miles ago.

Granted, it is a gas engine, but it's still running fine.

Don't sweat it. You *might* have caused some *miniscule* bit of bearing wear, but nothing more than a cold start or two.

Does anyone dump some oil in the oil filter housing before installing the filter?

I figure this would help get the oil to the engine sooner? :confused:

-John :cool:

I have an OM617 with 0 oil pressure. It still runs. I'm not sure that I'd trust if I fixed the oil pressure problem (which is why I'm pulling the injectors and calling it a day). It "lost oil pressure on the highway" and the previous owner had it towed home. The oil pan is smashed in and the cam is dry. I suspect that he hit something just before he lost pressure although he doesn't seem to think so.

For that period of time, don't worry about it.

-Tad

I do, I pour one gallon into there slowly and the other into the filler cap.

Pressure comes up to about 1bar almost instantly, then takes a few more to get to 3bar. I prefill filters on gas vehicles if I have the ability to do so.

If u have been using synthetic oil, then there would have been no problem. If u r bent on using dino oil, I do not know what damage was done.

I would like to use synthetic oil (trying to go non-dino as much as possible with VO and biodiesel), but I was told that Delo 400 15w40 was the best oil to use for my 1982 300D.

I'm pretty sure that more dino is consumed in the making of Mobil One than is present in a jug of Delo 400. Delo 400 and Delvac 1300 are probably the best non-synthetic oils for your 300D, but the best oil would be Delvac One synthetic 5w-40, now also marketed as Mobil One truck & SUV formula 5w-40. Amsoil diesel oil uses the same base stock with Amsoil's additive package, and might possibly be a little better stuff, but the Mobil is more readily available.

Since Castrol started calling group III dino oil "synthetic" and getting away with it, the vast majority of the "synthetic" oils are closer to Delo400 than they are to MobilOne. About ten years ago, after the price of Castrol Syntec dropped below MobilOne, and before I knew why, I used it for one oil change in a gasser. It did not hold up like MobilOne, viscocity dropped within 2000 miles, and oil consumption went up. Switching back to M1 cured it. I think it's crazy to spend three times the price of Delo for Rotella "synthetic".

I hadn't thought about it that way. I wonder if it's true?

Thanks,

Pete.

Any damage done to the engine for a few seconds running with new oil in the case is minor. You can't get all the oil off the components when draining it anyway, so everything is coated before you start the engine. Just like any other cold start.
Neither would I bother to fill the oil filter can when changing oil - for the same reason. Use your time for other things.

There are far worse things one can do to an engine than starting it.

Wear down of engine parts comes from not changing the oil often enough. The build up of soot and other particulates in the oil age an engine pretty fast.

I ran my car bone dry on the interstate. It went from full to no oil in about 40 miles due to a major leak of which I was unaware. I filled it back up and 20,000 miles later it still doesn't use any oil between changes. I'm sure yours is fine. Stop worrying.

Scott

Always. Easier on cars with the spin-on filter, but I do it with the MB cannister oil filter as well. It does noticably reduce the time it takes the engine to build pressure.

I don't see how pouring some oil down the filter canister would help much. Without the stem installed wouldn't it just drain to the crankcase?

Yes. Its a great way to fill the engine if you don't have a funnel though! :D

Are you paying attention to the dates on these threads? This is the second 4 year old thread you've resurrected today!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...rnoobzcopy.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...surrection.jpg

Ha!

Its an old thread, so what?

Love your post, Hit man.:P

I use that to fill the engine with oil and let the jug drain into the valve cover through the hole

Any combination of knoob mistakes or dumb comments or questions resulting from not searching that result in any level of frustration from the forum gurus is totally worth it...as long as we can have that picture of Hitler.

So what is wrong with commenting on old threads? I liked Hit Mans pics too. :D

Hmmm, I'll see if I can find some more old threads to reactivate. ;)

I used to fill through the filter housing, but now I don't bother since it all just drains to the pan anyways. I usually get full pressure in about 5-6 seconds upon starting after an oil change. And in like 1 second normally. The gasser is slower to build pressure on startup....it takes about 2-3 seconds to reach 3 bar....

If you are doing the above you must be really fast. With the long Stem of that is on the Oil Filter Cap pulled out the Oil has that about 1/4 inch or so hole to draing back into the Oil Pan.
When the Cap is on the hole is plugged by the bottom of the stem/O-rings.
So I guess it is possible to dump what looks like 2-3 quarts of Oil into the housing and shove the Oil Filter Cap on.

I think Hitler pictures are inappropriate because he liked VWs.

But, on the other hand we have A Star Trek Club so why not a Hitler Club;)

Since we all have 1000 things to do and only 10 minutes to do them in, I have to remind myself what I am doing. Just to stop me from doing the same thing I always put the new jug of oil right on top of the valve cover. You can't close the hood with it there;)