Hi, I'm a new 1987 300D owner and new at looking under the hood of anything! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

RiceCakes619 · #1 10-22-2005, 02:24 PM

Please help I'm desperate! So far I've spent 12 hours reading the forums and using the search as well as 6 hours on google looking up what my ALDA is. I found this link:

http://www.mindspring.com/~houlihan/merc/banjo.htm

and tried to clean my banjo bolt. Inadvertantly I tore a hose while trying to get to my SOV. Here are some pics of the damage and other questions:

(BTW I hope no one mines these large photo files I want to be as detailed as possible I know how some forums can be I really don't want to piss anyone off as a noob >_< OH and does anyone have a working link for this site? http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/OM603_injection ?)

Here are the pieces I was fiddling with I was trying to follow this guy's instructions

http://www.mindspring.com/~houlihan/merc/banjo.htm

and I was able to clean the "banjo bolt" though it wasn't really tarred up or anything. The problem happened when I did this:

"If you follow the line from the intake manifold and find
a funny looking box on the firewall with vacuum tubes
and electrical wiring running into it.....clean this out as
well. My car doesn't have this "switchover valve" but
this is also a big contributor to performance loss."

This is my SOV right? (and do I have to unmount it to clean it off? Do I clean inside of it?)

I was assuming that to clean this thing I would have to take off the hose like with the banjo bolt but I ended up rupturing the innertube while trying to remove one of the clamps.

argh it's broken! =(

SO the question is, can I go to kragen and get some hose and some sort of connector to attatch it back or do I have to get some sort of specialty hose? If I can buy a part from there, which connector thing do I ask for? Oh and the bonus question:

Is this my alda?

Thanks in advance for any info. Everyone is really informative here, real nice community. I'm just horrible at anything mechanical. If my 300D was a computer I wou'dnt be having any problems haha. Please treat me like I'm 11 years old on this one. My head spins reading the forums but I'm trying because like everyone else here I really <3 my car. I have a couple other minor questions I'll save for later, but for now I can't drive anywhere and just like to make it out tonight (I think?)

sixto · #2 10-22-2005, 02:29 PM

SMALLER PICTURES, PLEASE!!!

I might be able to help you if I can see what you've posted.

Sixto
87 300SDL

sixto · #3 10-22-2005, 02:35 PM

The hose does look broken. No biggie. You can use regular vacuum hose as long as it's a snug fit. Originally it had a stiff plastic hose with only enough rubber hose for unions.

That's the switchover valve. The bottom nipple should connect to the ALDA.

That's the ALDA.

That's not the original shut-off valve. My replacement shut-off valve is plastic too.

For the link, contact a user who goes by gsxr. That's his website.

BTW, there is no banjo fitting for the boost signal system in an 87 300TD. There's a barbed fitting the screws directly into the manifold, not through a banjo fitting.

Sixto
87 300SDL

sixto · #4 10-22-2005, 02:36 PM

You can get the plastic hose from an MB or VW dealer. I don't think they stock color coded hose. The boost signal doesn't care

Sixto
87 300SDL

RiceCakes619 · #5 10-22-2005, 02:51 PM

I just realized... can't I just get one huge piece of tube instead of dealing with three different tubing pieces?

Oh and how the hell do I reach my alda then? My car needs a tweak so bad.

Thanks for the quick reply's, I had no idea I have no Banjo... I'm such a noob >_<

sixto · #6 10-22-2005, 02:55 PM

Regular rubber hose will work. It might be a problem when you get to 2 bar

Get two very slim 24mm(?) wrenches and undo the retainer holding the ALDA to the IP. With the ALDA off the car you can tweak the set screw (CCW for more fuel) or add shims between the ALDA and IP like gsxr does.

Sixto
87 300SDL

dieseldiehard · #7 10-22-2005, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RiceCakes619

I just realized... can't I just get one huge piece of tube instead of dealing with three different tubing pieces?

Oh and how the hell do I reach my alda then? My car needs a tweak so bad.

Thanks for the quick reply's, I had no idea I have no Banjo... I'm such a noob >_<

Welcome to the 124 300D turbo world, that is a miraculous car if its running properly and treated well.
Before you go any further, a Question.
Does your car still have the Trap Oxidizer in the exhaust? It's a football shaped metal can behind the turbo before the exhaust downpipe.
If so, that needs to be removed as they are prone to plugging and the factory will replace it under a warranty recall, actually they will install a CAT device under the car and bypass the Trap.
The symptoms of sluggish engine can also be attributed to a sticky wastegate flapper in the turbo. And a plugged fuel filter.
The hoses are available through Fastlane, you probably need to call Phil and describe the hoses, the clips are necessary to prevent the injector lines from vibrating against each other and the brackets and wearing through, a common problem in this model with the thin metal lines.

RiceCakes619 · #8 10-22-2005, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldiehard

Welcome to the 124 300D turbo world, that is a miraculous car if its running properly and treated well.
Before you go any further, a Question.
Does your car still have the Trap Oxidizer in the exhaust? It's a football shaped metal can behind the turbo before the exhaust downpipe.
If so, that needs to be removed as they are prone to plugging and the factory will replace it under a warranty recall, actually they will install a CAT device under the car and bypass the Trap.
The symptoms of sluggish engine can also be attributed to a sticky wastegate flapper in the turbo. And a plugged fuel filter.
The hoses are available through Fastlane, you probably need to call Phil and describe the hoses, the clips are necessary to prevent the injector lines from vibrating against each other and the brackets and wearing through, a common problem in this model with the thin metal lines.

OK first, what's bar 2? (that was posted maybe two posts above)

Thanks, I have so many plans for the car but I figure I should start with repairing things/small upgrades first. Is this what you were talking about?

(I tried taking a smaller size pic... I don't think it came out that much smaller oops) Football shapped thing? I'm not sure where my turbo is at because I thought turbo's looked like snails and I don't see anything like that.

Factory warranty recall? So does that mean I go to a dealer for that?

I feel like I'm asking really bad embaressing questions. Thanks soooooo much.

RiceCakes619 · #9 10-22-2005, 03:41 PM

oh yeah, how do i clean my waste gate flapper and what does it look like?

RiceCakes619 · #10 10-22-2005, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

Regular rubber hose will work. It might be a problem when you get to 2 bar

Get two very slim 24mm(?) wrenches and undo the retainer holding the ALDA to the IP. With the ALDA off the car you can tweak the set screw (CCW for more fuel) or add shims between the ALDA and IP like gsxr does.

Sixto
87 300SDL

Why two wrenches? I see it being connected by a huge nut at the bottom, is this normal?

sixto · #11 10-22-2005, 04:28 PM

The exhaust manifold runners collect around the #6 cylinder and terminate in a flange pointing up. A pipe covered with perforated foil connects to the flange and to the turbo at the other end. If the pipe is more than 4" in diameter, it's a trap oxidizer and should be replaced by MB under recall. You can see if MB will sell you a replacement crossover pipe but it'll be at your cost. MB is under obligation to replace that crossover pipe, inspect the turbo and replace if necessary, and replace the downpipe with a pipe with an oxidation catalyst device (looks like a gasser catalytic converter). I highly doubt they will give you the parts at no cost.

Bar is a metric unit of pressure. 2 bar is about 30 psi [corrected, I said 15 psi previously]. My point was that I would be careful about what rubber hose I used as a boost signal line beyond 15 psi. MB used plastic line for a reason

If you turn the big nut, the ALDA will turn with it. The second wrench is to hold flats in the case of the ALDA while you loosen the big nut.

I'm only familiar with the Garrett turbo. To inspect the wastegate flap you have to remove the down pipe then remove the tail housing of the turbo. Not terribly difficult if you soak the nuts and bolts in penetrating oil the day before you begin work. Working on a hot engine should help... loosen bolts, not your skin.

I don't know how a KKK turbo looks. I think it has an external wastegate vs the internal wastegate of the Garrett.

Sixto
87 300SDL

RiceCakes619 · #12 10-22-2005, 05:54 PM

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

=D

I feel like someone just told me the world is round when I thought it was flat. I feel enlightened. At least until I do something crazy like attempt to upgrade the turbo. I'm going to the part store BRB.

I feel like I should send you a present sixto haha

mbonly · #13 10-22-2005, 08:07 PM

What You have in that last picture is definitely the trap oxidizer still in the car. Get that replaced soon and You'll get a new exhaust and be rewarded with extra power and fuel economy

RiceCakes619 · #14 10-22-2005, 08:20 PM

Oh no =( I thought so! How much did it cost people to get that replaced/serviced? Can I remove it with out getting

AH so right now I'm running with tubes with no plastic linning I'm scared something will explode. Sigh, next paycheck I'll call up these diesel guys in el cajon. I hope I can make it to work in this condition >_<

sixto · #15 10-22-2005, 08:26 PM

Thus far MB has been honoring the recall at no charge. If you're really lucky you'll get a new turbo out of it.

The trick is to keep the downpipe without oxidizer catalyst. There's a line of 87 300D/TD owners waiting to buy it if you don't want it... assuming MB lets you keep it.

Sixto
87 300SDL