So, I filled my transmission after connecting the fill pipe and it leaked (using aluminum crush washers from the dealership). Unfortunately, I had to disconnect and drain the transmission to get the exhaust back on, so I got to install the aftermarket cruch washers from my filter kit. It still leaked. I ran the car for four days and did a fluid and filter changed (used transmission had been sitting a long time). And it still leaks!

I find it very frustrating to get through a transmission swap and be stumped on a fluid and filter change! Any advice welcome. Someone told me that the banjo bolt could be bent, but it is not visibly so, and it worked fine in the old transmission. Maybe I should try the pan from the old tranmission next? Is my technique bad? I never changed the fluid on the old transmission (hadn't had the car very long when it went out).

Any hints welcome. Thanks in advance.

Only thing I can think of is you have a dirty connection. Make sure the washers are clean without anything being imbedded in the surfaces, and crank it tight. Once I do that, on the transmission or the fuel filter/injection pump, the leaks go away.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

So, I did another fluid and filter change and I swapped the pan from the old transmission onto the new(er) one. And, problem fixed! Actually, the problem was that there was much less room between the filler tube and the pan when i was using the pan from the new(er) transmission. So, I couldn't get the banjo bolt very tight before the filler tube came in contact with the pan.

Note: This is on a 1979 300SD and the new(er) transmission is off of a 1980 300SD. It is still the same transmission, but maybe there was a change to the pan and filler tube. There is definately a difference between the two pans I have.

EDITed for spelling.