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  #1  
Old 10-26-2005, 11:46 PM
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Location: San Francisco Bay Area
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did i get overcharged on my 240d clutch job?

was driving my 83 240d and all of a sudden the clutch went to the floor. i had it towed to a shop of a guy i've known for a while and he ended up charging me $900 to replace the master cylinder, clutch disc, bearing, and pressure plate. $300 for labor, $600 for parts. looking around on the net i see all those parts (oem) for about $300 total, and thats consumer prices, not discounted shop prices. i'm not even sure i needed a new clutch either, seems like all i would have needed was a new master cylinder. i would have liked to have thought i could trust this guy but now i'm not so sure.

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  #2  
Old 10-26-2005, 11:54 PM
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Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
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After a few of these episodes over the years I just started to do all my own work. There was an earlier period when I first started to drive that automotive service was pretty reasonable. But that was a long long time ago.
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  #3  
Old 10-27-2005, 12:19 AM
sailor15015's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Norman, Oklahoma
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When I had the bimmer in a shop to get the tranny replace, the mechanics broke a coolant hose, emptying the entire system of coolant. I know i couldn't have moved it anywhere to fix it myself but the fact that they put in a new hose, new coolant, and charged me for parts and labor on something that was there fault really made me mad. Since then shops have been at the very bottom of my list of options. I had to break down and take the 300D to the shop when the starter needed replaced because the special allen head-universal drive-combo tool cost around $75 and the labor for the job was $90, and believe me, it would have been impossible without the tool for me anyway. Anyway I never took my eyes of off that mechanic the whole time he had his hands on my car.
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1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo
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  #4  
Old 10-27-2005, 12:26 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 34,780
did you get all the parts that he took out?

what were your instructions to him? my shop has a night drop for keys and instructions. i usually drop off at night and so can provide written instructions. if i have a specific request. i write it out. if i dont know what the prob is i ask for them to diagnose and call with estimate for repair.

i never give open ended request for "just fix it" actions.

sorry you are unhappy.

tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #5  
Old 10-27-2005, 12:32 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 225
If it makes you feel any better....

....you paid less than I did 3 years ago.

I spent approximately $950 to have the same thing done to the Volvo, at the dealer, in 2002 at 338,000 mi. At the time, I lived in Dallas, and couldn't find anyone but the dealer to stoop so low as to work on a diesel Volvo. I have a receipt from the previous owner of the same thing being done in 1993 at 190,000 mi. for $720 at the dealer.

At least you won't have to worry about the clutch for a while.

Take care...
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'06 Mercedes E350 station wagon
'85 Mercedes 300D (#2)
'79 Cadillac Sedan deVille

'85 Mercedes 300D (#1) sold back to orig. owner after 5 years on 8-1-06.
'84 Volvo 264GL Diesel, owned 2000-2013
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  #6  
Old 10-27-2005, 12:33 AM
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he gave me an estimate before i agreed to the fix. i needed the car for work and getting it towed somewhere else wasn't really an option at that point. to make a long story short ive known this guy for a while and i know someone else who's known him for longer and up until now i had no reason not to trust him (past repairs were excellent and very reasonably priced).

i just want to make sure i'm not overlooking something here, because this job sniffs of bs.
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  #7  
Old 10-27-2005, 03:05 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Virginia
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When faced with a repair that requires unavailable time, tools or equipment, I typically purchase and provide parts to the mechanic.

Shops routinely charge List Prices for parts, which are rarely, if ever, charged at the parts store counter. This practice pads the profit margin; permits overrun in actual labor hours over estimated hours; warranty returns; etc. But they usually only pay their mechanics based on estimated hours, no compensation for returns, hook the parts supplier for parts warranty, and charge the customer for warranty labor.
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82 240D 97K Original (Sweet)
96 Ford F350 CrewCab Dually,7.3 PowerStroke,144K
(a real workhorse, does anything I need)
04 VW Jetta GLS TDI, 33K (50 mpg & it's quick)
Notice a trend? All diesels

63 Chevy II Nova Convertible (wife's) awaiting restoration - Well everyboby has a little gas every once in awhile
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  #8  
Old 10-27-2005, 04:03 PM
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Posts: 18,355
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor15015
When I had the bimmer in a shop to get the tranny replace, the mechanics broke a coolant hose, emptying the entire system of coolant. I know i couldn't have moved it anywhere to fix it myself but the fact that they put in a new hose, new coolant, and charged me for parts and labor on something that was there fault really made me mad. Since then shops have been at the very bottom of my list of options. I had to break down and take the 300D to the shop when the starter needed replaced because the special allen head-universal drive-combo tool cost around $75 and the labor for the job was $90, and believe me, it would have been impossible without the tool for me anyway. Anyway I never took my eyes of off that mechanic the whole time he had his hands on my car.
You need to get acquainted with Harbor Freight. The tools necessary to replace the starter (couple of long extensions, universal joint and allen socket) wouldn't run you more than $25 there, and a lot less on sale.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #9  
Old 10-27-2005, 04:19 PM
home of 4,5,6,8 cylinders
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 504
Regardless what car u have, the clutch pedal dropped tot he floor got to be the master cyl. If u see fluids on the ground then should be slave cyl.

If the car runs properly why need clutch?

Chalk it up as a learning experience.
A car gets towed in they will soak u more.

Same reason why some folks change cars every 3-4 yrs. If u want to drive older cars, u better be prepare to have hands dirty. Or have another car.
I have a few now, I used to get nevous when my only car dies!

On my b4 Honda Civic 1500, even the clutch material is good, the little springs in the middle came off, jammed the clutch together, so it wouldn't release. Still cost me close to 4 bills to have her fixed, while the front axle pulled. We saw the ball joint is working loose. These BJ works by pulling her apart, unlike the conventional ones that press together. So if it loose enough the front wheel will come out. So another $150.

To made it worse, the Mech is a heavy duty mech, he is good but don't know enuf on Honda. He told me no need to replace the timing belt, so one day i was passing someone at 80 MPH the belt undone. Bent 10 of the 12 valves in the head. Now I am doing it my self, mind as well trust nobody.
He told me that the Honda engine is non iterference type, i listened to him.
As I had a Volvo, It died on the road because of timing belt too, I changed her with bro on the side road that very evening.

A clutch is not easy to tackle.
In a way what u paid, should be captured it back when selling it, as long as u have a receipt of clutch changed.

g luck
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  #10  
Old 10-27-2005, 06:20 PM
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I don't know. I think it is somewhat customary to let the technician order the parts for me, unless it is quite rare. Yes, it pads their profit margin, which does keep them in business and keeps them able (and willing) to work on my car. Not many out there willing to and capable of working on forty year old merecedes. I feel obliged to politely keep them interested in my car for doing the stuff I can't do.

If I were going in for surgery I would not bring kitchen knives with me for the surgeon to use in order to save a few bucks. It's not the same thing, I know.

It's just tough finding people interested in working on old cars everywhere, and the w123 chassis is an old car, too.

It does sound like a hydraulic problem to me, and not absolutely the clutch.
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  #11  
Old 10-27-2005, 06:52 PM
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Location: RI
Posts: 271
New clutch kit installed on my '81 240d almost 3 years ago now. Was an Indy, charged about $750.00. He kept my car a whole month. It sat in the lot for 3 and a half weeks. Last 2 days of the month it was on the lift.(I spied). Went to pick it up and the place was closed, left me stranded there in a snow storm(they left early, I had taken a cab and sent it away.) The clutch has juddered cold ever since. Must of left grease on the plate. Needless to say I haven't been back since, except due to money and business difficulties of my own I have been forced about 7 months ago to downgrade and rent space right next door to him in a garage complex. We try to avoid each other. Fate, huh.
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  #12  
Old 10-27-2005, 08:25 PM
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Currently Benzless :(
 
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Location: Palm Springs, CA
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I was quoted $900 to $1000

for clutch, not including MC. He said 400 for parts and the rest labor. I am capable of doing it myself, but I wanted to see what he said. OTOH my 3rd grear synchro can be a bit testy, but I'm not capable of doing a tranny rebuild myself.
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  #13  
Old 10-27-2005, 11:56 PM
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Location: San Francisco Bay Area
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thanks guys. i suppose i have a better idea now. lesson learned...in the future ill try to do my own work, or at least buy my own parts for a mechanic to install.

btw, i found the w123 chasis and body service manuals on the net, but i can't find the transmission one. anyone know where to find that?
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  #14  
Old 10-28-2005, 12:18 AM
Mister Byrnzoil's Avatar
Currently Benzless :(
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Palm Springs, CA
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here ya go.

http://rbk3.com/mbz/trans/MBZManual_Manual.pdf

its big, like 25 megs or something, enjoy!
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  #15  
Old 10-28-2005, 12:49 AM
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Last time I changed a clutch was on a 1965 MGB. This required pulling the engine on this absurd vehicle. Personally, I think the price wasn't that bad if your guy did all he said he did and did a good/complete job.

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