engine shake 300D turbo - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

boneheaddoctor · #16 11-04-2005, 10:25 AM

Here is a photo of what you are looking for.

Look with a flashlight and see if you can see any gold anodizing left..or if its truely silver...

The gold ones are upgraded...the springs would fatigue and break in the older silver ones.

Bajaman · #17 11-04-2005, 10:33 AM

I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but it sounds exactly like my TD before the rebuild. The car would literally rock with the engine. If the rack dampener doesn't solve it, I would seriously look into locating the cause of a dead cylinder. This would entail a compression check and injector inspection.

funola · #18 11-06-2005, 11:50 AM

I adjusted the rack damper and it did not make that much difference. I'm not sure if I adjusted it correctly. I assume the big nut (14 mm) which is closest to the IP, is the locknut, and the 12 mm is the adjustment. Anyway, turning the 12 mm nut ccw made the engine shake more. This was done with the car in drive parking brakes on and wheels chocked. Screwing it in all the way made it a little smoother but not any better than before I replaced both engine mounts. I hope I do not have a dead cylinder! What I want to know is: Why did replacing both engine mounts with new ones make the engine shake? It did not shake like that fefore. Could the new mounts be bad? I bought them from Phil on this forum.

Diesel Giant · #19 11-06-2005, 05:06 PM

Did you adjust the rack damper bolt? If you find that it is all the way in, then you probably need a new one. The spring on the internal, gets weak over time.

funola · #20 11-07-2005, 11:26 AM

I did adjust the rack damper bolt and it was all the way in. It made very little difference in lessening the engine shake. When started from cold, it does not shake much, only after it fully warms up does it shake badly. Does that give a clue?

Again, before I replaced the 2 engine mounts, the engine did not shake. Why did 2 new mounts cause it to shake?

Is the 5 cyl engine inherently a shaky engine?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel Giant

Did you adjust the rack damper bolt? If you find that it is all the way in, then you probably need a new one. The spring on the internal, gets weak over time.

boneheaddoctor · #21 11-07-2005, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I did adjust the rack damper bolt and it was all the way in. It made very little difference in lessening the engine shake. When started from cold, it does not shake much, only after it fully warms up does it shake badly. Does that give a clue?

Again, before I replaced the 2 engine mounts, the engine did not shake. Why did 2 new mounts cause it to shake?

Is the 5 cyl engine inherently a shaky engine?

Sounds like you may have a fatigued Rack bamper that needs replaced....you wouldn't get the car started with it cranked all the way in with a good one.

funola · #22 11-07-2005, 03:14 PM

Do you know if the rack damper adjustment bolt and locknut can be removed and replaced without taking the IP out? If so, I was thinking of making the locknut thinner so the bolt can go in further. I just need a teeny bit more adjustment.

boneheaddoctor · #23 11-07-2005, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Do you know if the rack damper adjustment bolt and locknut can be removed and replaced without taking the IP out? If so, I was thinking of making the locknut thinner so the bolt can go in further. I just need a teeny bit more adjustment.

yes.......but its fatigued, replace it...you don't want the bolt housing to contact the rack...then you will be in a world of hurt.

funola · #24 11-07-2005, 07:17 PM

Do I have to pull the IP to put in a new rack damper? I hope not. What's the part cost $$$? Where can I buy one? Is there an exploded view pdf on the internals of the IP available online somewhere?

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

yes.......but its fatigued, replace it...you don't want the bolt housing to contact the rack...then you will be in a world of hurt.

boneheaddoctor · #25 11-07-2005, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Do I have to pull the IP to put in a new rack damper? I hope not. What's the part cost $$$? Where can I buy one? Is there an exploded view pdf on the internals of the IP available online somewhere?

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1MY1ATEJJ1NM15HI4K&year=1983&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=D&part=Governor+Idler+Adj.+Pin

Thats technicaly its name....

[IMG]http://www.**************.com/store/images/fs/dslrackdamp.jpg[/IMG]

engatwork · #26 11-07-2005, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Do I have to pull the IP to put in a new rack damper?

no - just loosen the locknut and back it out.

funola · #27 11-08-2005, 05:41 PM

BHD, thanks for the nice pic of the racker damper bolt. I can't read the text to the left of it. Anyway you can send me a copy that's legible? TIA

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1MY1ATEJJ1NM15HI4K&year=1983&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=D&part=Governor+Idler+Adj.+Pin

Thats technicaly its name....

[IMG]http://www.**************.com/store/images/fs/dslrackdamp.jpg[/IMG]

boneheaddoctor · #28 11-08-2005, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

BHD, thanks for the nice pic of the racker damper bolt. I can't read the text to the left of it. Anyway you can send me a copy that's legible? TIA

sorry, It was part of the photo I found...I sort of hijacked it from Mercedescource ....

Nope got nothing higher resolution...

you just adjust it in to contact and then just enough more to smooth out the engine when at operating temp...and tighten locknut....you want it no tighter than absolutely needed.....more is not better.

#29 11-14-2005, 09:11 PM

Well to tag my experience onto this thread...here is another issue (similar signs). (300SD)

I have had this pretty consistant engine shake (shakes you inside the car even) at idle to about 1000RPM (my idle is around 700 or so).

Here is what I did:

I first changed out my rack dampner pin because the last one was the old style and the one in the 19 dollar IP I got from the wrecking yard had the new style

So I adjusted all that and whatnot.

Now...here is a peculiar issue.

If I crack open injection lines as I go down the line, cylinder 2 line being opened doesn't affect the idle whatsoever.

Now...the injectors have only about 600 miles on them and are set to about 2200psi. (150bar) This helped the shake a little but not much.

Now...my engine doesn't ACT like it has a dead cylinder but I would think cracking the line and not having any affect would be a bad sign. could the delivery time on number 2 need adjusting?

I think I am going to pop the line loose on the IP and see if I get a good spray (maybe that piston in the IP isn't putting out the right pressures?

Thoughts?

Thanks!

boneheaddoctor · #30 11-14-2005, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brandon314159

Well to tag my experience onto this thread...here is another issue (similar signs). (300SD)

I have had this pretty consistant engine shake (shakes you inside the car even) at idle to about 1000RPM (my idle is around 700 or so).

Here is what I did:

I first changed out my rack dampner pin because the last one was the old style and the one in the 19 dollar IP I got from the wrecking yard had the new style

So I adjusted all that and whatnot.

Now...here is a peculiar issue.

If I crack open injection lines as I go down the line, cylinder 2 line being opened doesn't affect the idle whatsoever.

Now...the injectors have only about 600 miles on them and are set to about 2200psi. (150bar) This helped the shake a little but not much.

Now...my engine doesn't ACT like it has a dead cylinder but I would think cracking the line and not having any affect would be a bad sign. could the delivery time on number 2 need adjusting?

I think I am going to pop the line loose on the IP and see if I get a good spray (maybe that piston in the IP isn't putting out the right pressures?

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Worth a try... have you done a compression test yet to see if there is low compression on that cylinder?