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#1
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Where can I find the Mother of all Jumper Cables?
Where can I find the Mother of all Jumper Cables? I left my lights on yesterday and my buddy only had these puny little cables, which took forever to work! That scared me, winetr is coming and I dontw ant to be stranded in the Midwest Plains without Jumper Cables.
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#2
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Make them yourself. Get some good 6 g copper tangle free wire and some heavy clamps. Made mine 18' and had them for decades Bought all my materials at a welding supply store.
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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif 15 VW Passat TDI 00 E420 98 E300 DT 97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME! 97 S500 97 E300D 86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D 86 300SDL (o\|/o) |
#3
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Ya make em!!
Get welding cable and add ends of your choice. Solder the ends on. Make sure they have good spring tension to firmly attach to the battery posts. In a pinch, ya can even tow the sucker with them
Regards, Run-em 1983 300 S D-aka.- SPARKY THE DIESEL |
#4
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I've had to do a lot of thins with jumper cables. Tie down loads with them. Held a broken door closed with them. One of the best tolls ever invented for the automobile.
I vote make your own set, too. But do insulate carefully!! Good luck.
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PagodaLOVER 1967 230SL, manual 1959 180D, manual |
#5
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Walmart sells 4 gauge cables for $20. I've had 3 sets for about 6 years and none of them have failed. The insulation is thick and the ends are well made. I'm sure that you could find better but for $20 these are a bargain. Unless I go to a specialty shop I can't buy 40' of 4 gauge cable for $20 around here.
-Tad
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1995 G320 2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe 2005 ML500 2007 ML350 |
#6
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Yes, go to the welding store... consider something like Ought size cable... and the connection to the ends are very important... also, the way it attaches to your battery is also... the stupid hand spring held ' clamps' on regular jumper cables have VERY SMALL actual contact area on the things they are clamped to.... amazing they still sell them....
RAW Contact area is important when trying to get big current moved from one place to another... |
#7
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I rarely have trouble with the regular store bought kind but I have at times doubled up on them.
Danny
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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#8
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i have a pair of blue ones...pretty thick ones too. had em for years. very heavy duty.
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#9
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PLEASE DO NOT connect both your Jumper cables directly to the Battery terminals
I still see people doing this and it makes me crazy. Always connect one Jumper cable to the positive + terminal on the charged and 'dead' batteries first. Then connect the other cable to a solid chassis ground as far away from the battery as lead length allows. There are two main reasons for this (this is 'Auto-Shop 101' but it might enlighten some folks): Firstly, Lead-Acid car batteries give off highly flammable Hydrogen gas (think Hindenberg) and the spark from connecting the Jumper cable could easily ignite the gas causing your battery to explode. Maybe not a problem with the 'dead' battery, but the charged one could be giving off gas. Secondly (and less likely), if your battery has died because of an internal short, connecting a high-amp power supply across the terminals is probably a very bad idea and could damage the "good" battery.
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1991 M-B 560SEL Arctic White/Grey 99,000 Miles 1987 M-B 300SDL Ivory/Palomino 229,000 Miles (sold but never forgotten) 2006 Volvo XC70 Blue/Beige 1999 Porsche Boxster Arena Red/Savanna Beige 1986 Porsche 928S Goldweiss/Brown |
#10
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jumping batterie's
Dervman is absolutely correct. In the event you do connect the battery grounds directly to the battery grounds do this: First connect the positive lead to the battery being charged, then the other end to the positive pole of the charging battery. Second, connect the ground cable to the battery being charged, and then to the charging battery. This keeps you and your face away from the low/bad battery when the completed circuit is made.
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#11
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Yeah, I have some kind of red and black cables that came with the emergency kit my daddy gave me for christmas last year. I used them three times yesterday and they worked fine, didn't even have to charge for more than a minute and the car fired right up.
Of course, the alternator wasn't working, so the tiny charge only lasted about 30 miles. Luckily I got home before the headlights had completely died.
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1982 240D. My name is Michael, and I am an 18 year old binge-drinkin', cigar-smokin', novel-writin', all around unsavory and unnattractive guy. I tell long-winded stories, and I only shave once a week, although I've had to do it every day since I was 16. |
#12
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jumpers
Make them yourself ……..
-4 vise grips -2 lengths of insulated stainless braided cable (or welding cable) -4 furrels cut cable to desired length and strip ends back 3/4 of an inch crimp furrels in place. weld furrels to vise grips mother of all jumper cables !!!
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2003 SLK 230 (85000) 1999 E300 Turbo Diesel (388,000) 1991 350SD Turbo Diesel (185,000) |
#13
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sears has some pretty heavy duty cables that i bought and have used.
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currently [1981 300 td tdidi 165500 dark brown/palamino-Brownie-mine-3k miles of ownership 1983 240d 162+++ Anthricite grey w/ henna red interior and hella lights-wifes car-Red the above two cars are for sale and can be seen on the cars for sale thread here. pix also available. 240d-144+ Manilla Yellow w/ palmino interior-greasecar kit-Blondie-the college kids car 23" gt 21 speed still on original tires-still got the nubs 21" khs tandem |
#14
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I'm with Greg on this.
The size of the wire is not the limiting factor in transferring current. The clamps are the problem. The points on the clamps provide very little area for the charge to pass through. If a better system could be utilized at the cable ends, the difficulty in jumping a diesel would be eliminated. Making giant cables out of 0 gauge wire is not going to overcome the limit of the clamps. |
#15
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Quote:
Mine are 0 gauge welding wire with the highest surface area clamps I could find and 12 foot long. Weren't cheap to build (~90 bucks all together) but I doubt I will have to build another pair for a long time.
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Keep everything as simple as possible-but no simpler--Albert Einstein |
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