220d back to life? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pdxwaker · #1 11-05-2005, 12:02 PM

I recently bought 2 x 220d's as a package deal... one running, one not. I've almost finished bringing the running one back up to par and have begun trying to resurect the non-running one.

It's a '69 and the PO had owned it since '75... hasn't run for ~15 years. The PO couldn't recall why it stopped running in the first place. Here's what I've done so far:

- Valve adjustment, rotated engine several times through by hand

- Installed starter from '83 300SD (PO swapped starters previously)

- replaced thermostat housing from junk yard car

- verified glow plug operation

- connected fuel intake and return lines to a jar of diesel purge (to avoid old diesel in the tank).

There is currently no alternator or belt in the car but this shouldn't affect starting. I started by just cranking the engine without a glow plug cycle to build oil pressure (the oil looked descent when I pulled the dipstick). I then plugged in the coolant heater for ~1hr and ran a hot air paint stripper facing the air intake.

I used my '85 300D with jumper cables to keep the battery charged as I cycled the plugs and attempted to start. No luck. It cranked just fine but didn't even come close to starting.

I'm trying to avoid dropping a lot of cash in this project until I'm sure that the engine at least starts. Any suggestions for further troubleshooting? I'm going to try and locate a diesel compression tester (any one in Portland, OR have one?). Otherwise, I'll try to check the injectors (haven't done this before). It's not really feasible for me to try to jump the car by popping the clutch.

I'd appreciate any other help or advice....

t walgamuth · #2 11-05-2005, 12:41 PM

prob pretty dry. i would pull the injectors and squirt in some straight 30w oil. to bring up the compression. also i would change the oil. could be water in the bottom of the sump. if it doesnt start then i would pull it to spin the motor faster. to check the tank put in a siphon hose and pull some fuel off the bottom. it might be just fine.
try to be sure the glow plugs are working.

good luck

tom w

Ken300D · #3 11-05-2005, 02:39 PM

Well, the first thing I can think of might be to loosen one or two of the metal injector fuel lines at the injector, and see if you're getting any fuel to the injectors. With all that time, it may not be primed very well if at all.

Careful on cranking not to burn up the starter. I forget the recommended duy cycle but maybe 30 seconds of cranking followed by two minutes rest might save your starter during these sessions.

If you see the oil pressure rise then hopefully the cylinder walls are getting oil squirted on them.

Is propane injection into the air intake advisable to help start the car?

Ken300D

t walgamuth · #4 11-05-2005, 03:44 PM

there is anyplace that squirts oil onto the cyl. prob some migrates out from the wrist pin.

i wouldnt use propane. wd 40 sprayed directly into the intake will run it if it has compression and the glows are working. will run on it til everything is pumped up.

tom w

pdxwaker · #5 11-05-2005, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken300D

Well, the first thing I can think of might be to loosen one or two of the metal injector fuel lines at the injector, and see if you're getting any fuel to the injectors. With all that time, it may not be primed very well if at all.

Can I test these injectors similar to how I've tested gas injectors (i.e., pull them and observe the spray pattern)?

I am seeing the oil pressure rise... hopefully this means the cylinder walls are getting wet.

For some reason the starter is really draining the battery. I can only crank for ~20 seconds or so before the battery is drained. This is the good battery from my other 220d though the car does have a 300D turbo starter (higher current). At least I don't have to worry about damaging the starter ;-).

pdxwaker · #6 11-05-2005, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

i don't there is anyplace that squirts oil onto the cyl. prob some migrates out from the wrist pin.

i wouldnt use propane. wd 40 sprayed directly into the intake will run it if it has compression and the glows are working. will run on it til everything is pumped up.

tom w

Didn't realize this... guess I need to pull the injectors and wet down the cylinder walls. I'll try WD40 in the intake... 3 second squirt?

barry123400 · #7 11-05-2005, 08:52 PM

I remember from quite a few posts that a pull start is required of some mercedes diesel engines that have sat a long time to restore rings back to operational sealing condition. After the pull start and running for awhile the heat causes the rings to loosen up in their grooves I imagine and provide a functional seal again. Kind of makes sense. A compression test of this engine at this point would probably not be conclusive if lower than normal range presently. At least it's a standard transmission and the towing proceedure is a lot easier than the automatics.

t walgamuth · #8 11-05-2005, 11:01 PM

two diff things. one squirting 30w into the cyl to help raise compression. this is separate from the wd40 thing which is an alternative to priming the injection system.

on the wd40 thing, just squirt til it will run wo it. it wont hurt anything like ether would. it is a good aproximation of diesel fuel.

the starter sounds as if it is on its last legs. it is may be drawing too much current becasue the windings are bad.

good luck

tom w

pdxwaker · #9 11-06-2005, 05:36 PM

ITS ALIVE!!!

A squirt of 30W into each glow plug hole and several start/charge cycles...

Finally started with much smoke. Once started the car idled fine (albeit very smoky). I ran out of diesel purge due to all the pumping/priming troubleshooting so I'll have to purge the injectors later.

The prefilter grabbed onto quite a bit of algae in the short time I had her going (5-10 min). The tank is full so now I've got to figure out what to do with all of the 15 year old fuel that's full of algae.

Looks like I'll be searching on how to clean the tank strainer/pressure wash the tank.

Lots of other stuff to do on this car before I can get it on the road... alternator is first followed by the battery, rear tail lights (currently missing), and thermostat seal. The start/stop level at the injector pump needs to be replaced. Then I've got re-assemble much of the interior... if anyone has seen a W115 in a salvage yard near Portland I'd sure appreciate the lead!

My other 220d is having a problem with the heater blower. It might just take me less time to get the '69 back on the road than pull/repair the blower motor ;-).

Thanks for all the help once again!

t walgamuth · #10 11-06-2005, 08:00 PM

now on the algae (fungi) to those purists. i often have used the fungicide without cleaning the tank out. if it is not too bad the killer will liquify it and it will run thru the filters just fine. then do it three or four tanks and you may luck out.

tom w

ZackaryMac · #11 11-06-2005, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

now on the algae (fungi) to those purists. i often have used the fungicide without cleaning the tank out. if it is not too bad the killer will liquify it and it will run thru the filters just fine. then do it three or four tanks and you may luck out.

tom w

Of all the diesels I've ever owned (sadly none of them Mercedes...yet), I've never experienced algae problems. Am I safe to bet that this problem occurs only in the warmer climes?

Ralph69220d · #12 11-07-2005, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdxwaker

ITS ALIVE!!!

A squirt of 30W into each glow plug hole and several start/charge cycles...

Finally started with much smoke. Once started the car idled fine (albeit very smoky). I ran out of diesel purge due to all the pumping/priming troubleshooting so I'll have to purge the injectors later.

The prefilter grabbed onto quite a bit of algae in the short time I had her going (5-10 min). The tank is full so now I've got to figure out what to do with all of the 15 year old fuel that's full of algae.

Looks like I'll be searching on how to clean the tank strainer/pressure wash the tank.
Lots of other stuff to do on this car before I can get it on the road... alternator is first followed by the battery, rear tail lights (currently missing), and thermostat seal. The start/stop level at the injector pump needs to be replaced. Then I've got re-assemble much of the interior... if anyone has seen a W115 in a salvage yard near Portland I'd sure appreciate the lead!

My other 220d is having a problem with the heater blower. It might just take me less time to get the '69 back on the road than pull/repair the blower motor ;-).

Thanks for all the help once again!

I bought a 220d and parts car. Long story, but the car is in roseburg, oregon and i'm in illinois. i stripped what i could before i left. am leasing the house and the leasses obviously didn't want a junk car around. i asked a junk yard to tow it, but i don't think they did. i'll try and find out if the car's still there.'
you can email me at rfmurry@gmail.com

barry123400 · #13 11-07-2005, 12:41 AM

To the other nova scotian. I have been driving diesels for at least fifteen years steady. It is probably a warmer climate condition as never remember myself or fellow diesel drivers in our area ever mentioning it as a problem. The only thing generally seems to be water in the fuel picked up at certain fuel retailers from time to time. Now that is a pretty common experience here.

Ralph69220d · #14 11-07-2005, 03:01 PM

I agree with the forum member who listed the stiffness of the older MB's as both an asset and a deficit. The crumpling of a vehicle dissipate's a lot of the energy, which would otherwise be transferred to the occupant's. Proper crumpling lessens the sudden decelerations of a front end impact and the accelerations of a rear end impact. Side impacts, I think, are the least protected in newer cars, even for those with side air bags. I believe, if you're looking for a good safe, performer, used car the Cadillace SLS or STS is hard to beat; very low center of gravity, heavy and having the Northstar System (I think 93 was the first year), good braking and power, comfortable, smart abs, etc.

MonsieurBon · #15 11-07-2005, 03:17 PM

I saw those two 220's on Craigslist a while back. I'm glad someone got that diesel one working.