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  #1  
Old 11-06-2005, 07:56 PM
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EGR elimination, 617 engine

While in the final stages of getting the SD ready to run, I cleaned up the underhood environment and eliminated all the vacuum lines to the valve cover.

The attached photo shows all the remaining connections.

The main vacuum supply goes to a single T as seen in the photo. One end of the T goes to the vacuum control valve (via the green dampener) and the remaining end goes off to the transmission. Note the restriction orifice remains in the line to the vacuum control valve.

One T is completely eliminated........the line to the black box on top of the valve cover is eliminated.

The vent line goes directly to the vacuum control valve. One T is completely eliminated. The return vent line to the black box on top of the valve cover is eliminated.

Not shown in the photo is the line from the black box to the temperature switch on the thermostat housing. Remove it and toss it.

Finally, the line from the temperature switch to the EGR valve is eliminated.

As a final farewell, I opened up the black box and pulled out the remains of the 3-2 switches. The IP linkage works a bit smoother when you don't need to force the cam.

Much cleaner underhood environment.
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EGR elimination, 617 engine-sd-vacuum.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 11-06-2005, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton


Much cleaner underhood environment.
Now all you got left is to steam clean all the grease off and it'll really be cleaner.
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  #3  
Old 11-06-2005, 08:33 PM
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I put a 1979 300SD W116 intake and exhaust on my W123 today....no EGR on this baby.....and no black goo either....though I do have to say I found far less goo than many have described...only about 1/8 inch....maybe a tad more in places..I didn't have the time..nor the motivation to clean it out and put it back on today...
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Old 11-06-2005, 08:46 PM
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Glad to hear you have deep 6 the EGR.
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  #5  
Old 11-06-2005, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Giant
Glad to hear you have deep 6 the EGR.
I was putting a block heater in and prefered to do it from above.....as I don't relish the possiblinity of knocking ot off jackstands cranking on the cheater pipe screwing the block plug out...figured while I had it appart no time like the present.


and Brian will like the clean unencumbered manifolds every time he opens the hood.
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #6  
Old 11-06-2005, 09:20 PM
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how much persuasion did it take to get the plug out of the block? I still have mine to do...eventually
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  #7  
Old 11-06-2005, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnhef
how much persuasion did it take to get the plug out of the block? I still have mine to do...eventually
I took the handle off my 4 ton floor jack to use as a cheater bar on a big honking allen wrench (real allen wrench not a socket)....it came out with little trouble...I seem to remember my W116 plug being somewhat tighter however...a 4 foot cheater bar however made that hard to judge.....sun was setting when I finished my valve adjustment.....8 of the ten valves were tighter than spec.
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #8  
Old 11-06-2005, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
I was putting a block heater in and prefered to do it from above.....as I don't relish the possiblinity of knocking ot off jackstands cranking on the cheater pipe screwing the block plug out...figured while I had it appart no time like the present.


and Brian will like the clean unencumbered manifolds every time he opens the hood.
Well, I had the valve removed for quite awhile on the SD. But, I never properly replumbed the vacuum lines all the way back to the source T's. Furthermore, the threaded set screw in stainless looks fantastic when compared to the copper sealing plate and clamp.

I'm looking forward to finally starting it up.............it's been five months.
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  #9  
Old 11-07-2005, 03:29 AM
Brandon314159
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Nice clean setup...considering doing the same but the vac leaks (presumably from the valves on the valve cover) actually are just enough to appropriatly firm up the shifts with the addded HP.

No flaring or anything...but I like shifts a tad on the firm side...Still testing with no leaks and its okay...

BTW when I took out the plug in the 300SD to put in the block heater it took oxy-acetylene, allen wrench + 4 foot cheater + 300lb 6'4" dad to break it loose. And there was NO rust what-so-ever on the engine/plug/car. Simply tight.

Be forwarned people of the forum...
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  #10  
Old 11-07-2005, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Nice clean setup...considering doing the same but the vac leaks (presumably from the valves on the valve cover) actually are just enough to appropriatly firm up the shifts with the addded HP.

No flaring or anything...but I like shifts a tad on the firm side...Still testing with no leaks and its okay...
Yes, it does clean the entire underhood environment.

It will be interesting to see if the elimination of the 3-2 valves on the valve cover will firm up the shifts. The restrictor is only on the transmission circuit so there should be more than sufficient vacuum in front of the restrictor to maintain normal vacuum levels downstream to the vacuum control valve.
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  #11  
Old 11-07-2005, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
Yes, it does clean the entire underhood environment.

It will be interesting to see if the elimination of the 3-2 valves on the valve cover will firm up the shifts. The restrictor is only on the transmission circuit so there should be more than sufficient vacuum in front of the restrictor to maintain normal vacuum levels downstream to the vacuum control valve.
Technically any leaks in the system would make the shifts firmer (rather than less firm) becuase additional vac to to the tranny makes the shifting smoother.

For example...disconnecting the line to the tranny altogether makes it shift hard.
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  #12  
Old 11-07-2005, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Technically any leaks in the system would make the shifts firmer (rather than less firm) becuase additional vac to to the tranny makes the shifting smoother.

For example...disconnecting the line to the tranny altogether makes it shift hard.
If you have a restrictor on one part of the circuit (transmission), it is using a tiny fraction of the available vacuum. Therefore, some bleed upstream of the restrictor won't have much of an effect on the transmission circuit. The amount of vacuum consumed by the transmission circuit is miniscule compared to the available upstream vacuum.

But, we'll see.............after it runs.
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  #13  
Old 11-07-2005, 11:00 AM
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Good thread, Brian. I'm currently doing the same project on my w123. Question, do you know if the vacuum control valve adjusts for how much fuel pedal is applied? How so?
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  #14  
Old 11-07-2005, 11:17 AM
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The linkage is connected in the back of it.
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  #15  
Old 11-07-2005, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1983/300CD
The linkage is connected in the back of it.

Exactly. As the rack is opened, the linkage serves to move the valve and cause more vacuum bleed so the transmission sees less vacuum. This is why the restrictor is critical. The cabability of the VCV to bleed is limited and it needs a restriced supply to function properly.
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