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  #1  
Old 11-11-2005, 09:39 PM
linguica's Avatar
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Will running B5 chew up old fuel lines?

I have a 1985 300D turbo. I am considering putting some B5 in it, but I have heard that it can be tough on old fuel lines. Is this true? If so, what do I need to replace to run B5 without creating fuel leaks?

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  #2  
Old 11-11-2005, 09:54 PM
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B5 is fine, anything up to about B20 is fine, anything higher than that will result in accelerated fuel line degradation, unless you have new viton lines in there.
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  #3  
Old 11-11-2005, 10:53 PM
ncof300d
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I have rund B20 without and problem with fuel lines, however, it will be cleaning the fuel system so be prepared to change fuel filters and possibly the screen in the fuel tank.

I really like B100 and I would like to use it all year, but in northwest Ohio it is time to take the temperature into consideration.

If you use B100 will need to change fuel lines and perhaps filter again. (Biodiesel is an amaizing fuel system cleaner.) USE ONLY VITON. I speak from experience of trying other materials that left me along the road with the hoad up and repalcing a replaced line.
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  #4  
Old 11-11-2005, 11:09 PM
linguica's Avatar
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Thanks

Thanks for the info(to both of the last 2 posts). I will be sure to have a fuel filter, prefilter and screen on-hand when I dip into the B5. Where can I get Viton fuel line(s)?

Mark
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  #5  
Old 11-12-2005, 02:33 AM
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Your fuel tank would have to be really filthy for B5 to clog up your filters. B5 is 95% petrodiesel, so not much biodiesel is in it. Even with higher concentrations of biodiesel, if your fuel lines start to weep, they would have done that anyway sooner or later on petrodiesel which dissolves rubber too, though probably somewhat slower. There was someone on this board who had a regular fuel hose sitting in a jar of B100 for 6 months with no apparent harm so I definitely wouldn't worry about B5 dissolving rubber. I used B5 before for almost a year in all of my cars and even tried one tank of B100 and I never had any issues with filters plugging up or rubber dissolving.
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  #6  
Old 11-12-2005, 02:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncof300d
USE ONLY VITON. I speak from experience of trying other materials that left me along the road with the hoad up and repalcing a replaced line.
Why only viton? well the original owner of my 83SD worked at a bio-diesel plant in santa rosa CA and he had replaced the fuel lines that run under the car with copper pipes and the lines following were synthetic lines. Will it be ok? he ran b100 in the car and had put a kit similar to greasels kit that i use.
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  #7  
Old 11-12-2005, 05:16 AM
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They also sell Bulk hose so you can cut your own.

http://www.greaseworks.org/index.php?module=pncommerce&func=categoryview&CategoryID=11

I am getting a 1987 300SDL are there any orings in the IP, fuel filter mount, etc. that I would need to worry about to run B100? Thanks.
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  #8  
Old 11-12-2005, 12:35 PM
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B5 is no problem at all for anything in your car. In fact, anything under B20 is fine too. People trust this so much that if you've ever driven through Illinois and bought diesel at a truck stop, you probably got B11 without realizing it, since a number of places (A lot of Pilots, for instance) there are pumping B11 in all their diesel pumps without making a big deal out of it.

Even B100's fuel line and fuel filter issues are exaggerated. Most people's lines have been replaced at least once since the car was made, and anything made in the last 15 years is resistant to biodiesel. Viton is the best, but other things hold up well too.

If you are starting to use biodiesel, don't do anything to your car at all. Just keep an eye on the lines every so often (pop the hood every other fill-up or something), and check for weeping or cracks (you should be doing this regardless of biodiesel use, actually), if you see either of those things, then replace the lines soon. Then keep a set of filters in the car so you can change them if/when they start to clog. They probably won't, and if they do, you'll have plenty of notice (namely some hesitation at high speeds), and then you can change them when you get home. I've got nearly 15,000 miles of biofuel use (average of around B20, lifetime) on a set of filters that I installed when I got the car.

peace,
sam
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  #9  
Old 11-12-2005, 12:38 PM
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i have 15 gallons of bio i made that works ive ran it in a vw rabbit truck.. im going tomorrow to get my 300D and would like to run bio in it but im afraid of filters clogging soon. my question is. how many gallons is the fuel tank in the 300D so i can figure out how to make a b20 blend
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  #10  
Old 11-12-2005, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasybenz
Why only viton? well the original owner of my 83SD worked at a bio-diesel plant in santa rosa CA and he had replaced the fuel lines that run under the car with copper pipes and the lines following were synthetic lines. Will it be ok? he ran b100 in the car and had put a kit similar to greasels kit that i use.
Copper lines are questionable for biodiesel, and generally not recommended. However, in your case it may not be an issue.

Here is the deal... Copper catalyzes the oxidation reaction in biodiesel. That is, it speeds the breakdown process. Broken down biodiesel turns into a linseed oil like substance, and can form varnishes that can damage injectors and pumps.

However, biodiesel contains a natural supply of vitamin E (tocopherol), which protects against oxidation. The biodiesel must consume this supply of vitamin E before it will begin to break down, and this takes time. How long? We don't know for sure, but depending on the source of the fuel, greater than 6 months, and probably closer to a year or more. Additional vitamin E can be added to slow the oxidation, and keeping it in a dark, cool place without much headspace or ventilation, and low moisture, will also protect it from oxidation.

In your case, the fuel will only be in the copper lines for a day or two at most, so it shouldn't be an issue. But if you let your car sit for several weeks, you may want to flush the system. Alternatively, if you know you'll be leaving the car sitting, drain out the biofuel, and put in regular diesel for the sit.

Next time you replace the lines, you may want to go with conventional lines, instead of copper, but don't worry about it for the moment.

peace,
sam
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  #11  
Old 11-12-2005, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon
i have 15 gallons of bio i made that works ive ran it in a vw rabbit truck.. im going tomorrow to get my 300D and would like to run bio in it but im afraid of filters clogging soon. my question is. how many gallons is the fuel tank in the 300D so i can figure out how to make a b20 blend

It should say the tank capacity in the owners manual if you have it. I thinhk the 300d holds about 18 gal. The SD hold appox 20 gal with 3 gal reserve as stated by my manual.

Also i run B99 when i can and i always notice a power difference with the b99 over regular petrodiesel. Sometimes i run 50/50, sometimes i fill wil b99 then top off because there is a drop in the price.
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  #12  
Old 11-12-2005, 01:28 PM
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Putting metal lines in adds stress fractures into the picture. Break one and you may be screwed. With how much these diesel engine shimmy in the engine bay I wouldn't put in hard lines.

I got my viton hoses from Greaseworks.org. Justin is a great guy, and runs a good operation. He basically makes a kit for you. He precuts all the hose and labels them so you know where they all go, and includes all the hose clamps you will need.

I have had B100 in my car for 8 months/10,000 miles and haven't put my vitons on yet. My fuel lines look just fine, no signs of degredation yet. But they may have been fairly new when I bought the car.

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