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  #16  
Old 11-13-2005, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baraboom
What would be a "good" oil? I drove diesels for 14 years, well ...since I started driving really. My first car at 18 was a Peugeot 505 turbo diesel, 2.4 I think, awesome car btw and used CHEVRON Delco 15W-40, I had a 1978 300D and I started to use Mobil1 15w-50 and Lucas when the car had 280K miles I sold it at 400K at a guy in hawaii who didn't it even see the car. The engine was still running strong.
I would realy like to know the benefits(if they are any) of Synthetic oil over non sysntehic.
I was wondering what kind of oil Brian uses on his SDL
Well, there are about 1000 different preferences regarding oil on here. You can search to you are overwhelmed.

Chevron Delo 15W-40 is an excellent diesel rated dino oil.

I have used Rotella synthetic in both vehicles for the last couple of years. However, this was mainly due to price and not quality. The price gap between Mobil-1 and Rotella syn has narrowed dramatically and I've made the decision to switch to Mobil-1 on the 603 for the next change.

The benefits of synthetic are threefold for me:

1) Capability of changing the oil at 6K for the 603 and 5K for the 617.
2) Much easier cold starts
3) Better lubrication of engine components when the engine is very cold.
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  #17  
Old 11-13-2005, 10:01 AM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
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5w30/10w30 really have no place in any MB. Xw40 or Xw50 is really what belongs in the crankcase of a MB regardless of model, year, or oil. Maybe this isn't true on some of the very late model MB's but afaik they all use 0w-40.

Anyway "good oil" means a CH rated oil, as far as brands pick and chose. Walmart has their 15w-40 diesel oil that is $5 a gallon and comes in a blue jug. Most Autozones I have been to seem to carry Delo 400, Delvac 1300, and Rotella. Take your pick oil is oil.

I use Delvac 1 5w-40 in all my MB's year round.
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  #18  
Old 11-13-2005, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
5w30/10w30 really have no place in any MB. Xw40 or Xw50 is really what belongs in the crankcase of a MB regardless of model, year, or oil.
I agree with this and I will continue using Mobil1 15w-50 and stop using the Lucas. I will never use oil 5W-X unless I own a Honda civic,( and that will never happen) BTW I found out about Lucas from 2 people.
1. A diesel mechaninc working on MB
2. A friend of mine truck driver. He does about 3K miles a week with his Kenworth truck and told me that since he used Lucas on his (BIG MAMA Diesel 2 years ago I think) his truck works at his best. He came down one day a year ago and saw my 78 300D and got one the following week, a beautiful 1980 300CD , he uses Lucas in all his cars everytime he changes the oil. My experince with Lucas was positive on my 123. I used a quart of oil every 1000 miles, but since my car had almost 400K I decided to add Lucas. I never burned oil since then. The car seemed quieter and not much smoke but indeed maybe compression wasn't that great either
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  #19  
Old 11-13-2005, 04:14 PM
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Brian

As far as the fuel treatment, the general consensus is that RedLine diesel fuel conditioner or Power Service diesel fuel conditioner will provide some benefits. I don't have any knowledge of Lucas.[/QUOTE]

Brian,

I use amsoil products...and I seem to get good results...have you tried them? If so, what is your opinion?

Thanks
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  #20  
Old 11-13-2005, 04:16 PM
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Ooops. i meant 10w-30.
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  #21  
Old 11-13-2005, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman3876
Brian,

I use amsoil products...and I seem to get good results...have you tried them? If so, what is your opinion?
Amsoil has a very good reputation. Some folks swear by Amsoil. I have no personal experience with their products.
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  #22  
Old 11-13-2005, 07:55 PM
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Some people love Amsoil, I'd use it if I could go down to the local store and buy it. I refuse to order oil, it costs a freaken fortune.

Delvac 1 costs me $4 a quart thanks to Walmart, their is no way I could get Amsoil 15w-40 to my door for that price.
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  #23  
Old 11-16-2005, 04:47 PM
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I went to see my father about 160 miles round trip. I stop by Wal-Mart before and got the oil(needs an oil change soon) I also decided to use Brian's advice and got 2 bottles of Power Service the dark grey one from Wal-Mart. Accidentaly I pour half of the bottle I went very smooth all the way to the Bay Area and back, driving about 95 -110 MPH at times but mostly in the 75-85 range. I got a passport RD the red one, which I believe is the same thing as the blue one, and believe it or not it helps a lot
What I realized is that my RPM is not constant anymore. It stops most of the times when driving on city streets about 750-800. When I start it in the morning during warm up, it is about 650, if accelerate gently close to 1000 and keep it there for about 5 secs then release the pedal drops and stays at 500 as it used to before, what would be the problem?
Also Injector number 4 has a noise, as soon as I touch the metal line from the pump the noise is gone, the noise is not loud like a nock but much rather like a grind of some sort. Could be that I am missing the line brackets?
Thanks a lot and cheers
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  #24  
Old 11-16-2005, 07:21 PM
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Replace the missing or broken injector line brackets ASAP. It doesn't take long to wear through the thin metal used in the those lines.

Varying idle could indicate a bad overvoltage protection relay or a failing engine rpm sensor. Could also be a loose electrical connection into the idle stabilization device on the back of the IP.

Sixto
87 300SDL
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  #25  
Old 11-16-2005, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto
Varying idle could indicate a bad overvoltage protection relay or a failing engine rpm sensor. Could also be a loose electrical connection into the idle stabilization device on the back of the IP.

Sixto
87 300SDL
Hi, Thanks for your reply
I was wondering if you could be a bit more specific about this. How could I check the sensor to see it is failing? I will check the connection to the Idle Stabilization device, if it is good I could check the engine rpm sensor and if this is also good(if there will be a way to check it) I will replace the OP Relay,
or ?
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  #26  
Old 11-17-2005, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto
Varying idle could indicate a bad overvoltage protection relay or a failing engine rpm sensor. Could also be a loose electrical connection into the idle stabilization device on the back of the IP.
I cheked the electrical connection at the back of teh IP and it is very strong, i can't even move it, nor the wires
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