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  #31  
Old 11-13-2005, 04:13 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
I can reach it with my long, thin fingers but I imagine most people might have some difficulty. I wouldn't recommend taking it out unless you have to. You might be able to manuver around to get your fingers down there to start it. BHD talked about always having to remove the oil filter housing so maybe this is the issue.

If you were closer I'd come over and start it lol
Exactly...my fingers aren't long enough to get it started... don't have one on mine right now till I figure out how to get it back on without removing that Oil Filter housing again becasue that is a major PITA to do. Plus I am not exactly done tweaking the IP just yet.


By the way I mamaged to get the bolt off with the oil filter housing in place.....becasue I went through hell doing that job twice (little rant I had about gaskets molecularly bonding to engine blocks) and I did that before I had the loss of power issue that had me swap an IP searching for the problem. I tried to avoid pulling that filter housing again until absolutely neccesary.

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Last edited by boneheaddoctor; 11-13-2005 at 04:22 PM.
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  #32  
Old 11-13-2005, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
I got it done
Around here we say "git er done" .
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  #33  
Old 11-13-2005, 06:34 PM
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Congrats on a job well done Brian! Just for SaG, you could also try bumping it up to 14 ATDC while you've still got the RIV. I'm currently running 13 ATDC on the TD.
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  #34  
Old 11-13-2005, 07:25 PM
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Congratulations on a job well done! I'm sure you had fun (but at times wanted to break things) and learned quite a bit!
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  #35  
Old 11-13-2005, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
I had someone help me flush the brakes on my L yesterday... now I have air in the system. I feel your pain, this is now my excuse to order that pressure bleeder setup.

Glad to hear the SD is about ready to rock!
I found the leak on the SDL. RR caliper is toast. I kind of knew this when I rebuilt the LR caliper. Took it all apart and was going to finish it tonight when I realize that the kit is missing one of the two seals.

You know my solution to air in the system, correct?

Get a horseradish bottle and a length of hose. Fill the bottle with about 2 ounces of fluid and put one end of the hose in the fluid. Open the bleeder one turn and connect the hose.

Get in the vehicle and press the pedal 10 times. Get out and refill the m/c.
Get back in and press the pedal 5 more times. Get out and close the bleeder without removing the hose. Remove the hose and fully tighten the bleeder.

Repeat for the other three wheels. (Fill m/c prior to next wheel)

Pressure bleeder not required. When you mash that pedal, you force all the air right on through the lines.
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  #36  
Old 11-13-2005, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H2O2
Congrats on a job well done Brian! Just for SaG, you could also try bumping it up to 14 ATDC while you've still got the RIV. I'm currently running 13 ATDC on the TD.
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbodiesel
Congratulations on a job well done! I'm sure you had fun (but at times wanted to break things) and learned quite a bit!

Thanks Casey, I owe you big time. I want to leave it exactly at 15 ATDC for the moment because I promised one of the members to calibrate his pulse timing device. He needs a vehicle with a known setpoint and this one is going to be the one.

That RIV tool is simply fantastic. You can set timing in 15 minutes. 10 of those minutes are spent trying to get exactly to 15 ATDC, without a helper.

John, I took my sweet time with it and did a lot of thinking before each step. I certainly feel much more competant with the 617, that's for sure.
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  #37  
Old 11-13-2005, 07:49 PM
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Brian next time you are around we should meet up I'd love to see this SD!

Hit Man X as Brian said mash the pedal. Bleeding brakes with two people is cake but you can do it by yourself. I use the old pumping of the pedal method every spring and it works perfectly.
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  #38  
Old 11-13-2005, 08:03 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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now hold on a minute there

brian,

did you say you rebuilt one rear caliper and not the other???????

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #39  
Old 11-13-2005, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
brian,

did you say you rebuilt one rear caliper and not the other???????

tom w
I rebuilt the LR caliper early this year because it was leaking. I deferred the RR caliper thinking it might make it to the next fluid change. Not only did it not make it, but it completely ate both pads within 10K miles.

So, I paid for my indiscretion.
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  #40  
Old 11-13-2005, 08:12 PM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
I found the leak on the SDL. RR caliper is toast. I kind of knew this when I rebuilt the LR caliper. Took it all apart and was going to finish it tonight when I realize that the kit is missing one of the two seals.

You know my solution to air in the system, correct?

Get a horseradish bottle and a length of hose. Fill the bottle with about 2 ounces of fluid and put one end of the hose in the fluid. Open the bleeder one turn and connect the hose.

Get in the vehicle and press the pedal 10 times. Get out and refill the m/c.
Get back in and press the pedal 5 more times. Get out and close the bleeder without removing the hose. Remove the hose and fully tighten the bleeder.

Repeat for the other three wheels. (Fill m/c prior to next wheel)

Pressure bleeder not required. When you mash that pedal, you force all the air right on through the lines.


I'll have to rebleed this week then! I'm just frustrated at this point. Also found out that the L needs a ball joint on the Driver side.
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  #41  
Old 11-13-2005, 10:33 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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ok then

so on the calipers you are a lot like me. you change one when you can and two when you can.

i went out in the garage and found the ip from my 74 240 (this is the one that was fixed by replacing the sleeve with the splines worn out with one from a sixties gasser mech fi ). i took off the sleeve and attempted to count the splines. i was too lazy to count them all but a close estimate is 60... so then each tooth is about 6 degrees. so if you have a total desired adjustment of 15 degrees to get to the center you would need to go one tooth. more or less.

good luck with it.

tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #42  
Old 11-13-2005, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
so on the calipers you are a lot like me. you change one when you can and two when you can.

i went out in the garage and found the ip from my 74 240 (this is the one that was fixed by replacing the sleeve with the splines worn out with one from a sixties gasser mech fi ). i took off the sleeve and attempted to count the splines. i was too lazy to count them all but a close estimate is 60... so then each tooth is about 6 degrees. so if you have a total desired adjustment of 15 degrees to get to the center you would need to go one tooth. more or less.

good luck with it.

tom w
I'll do that with the rears. I won't do it on the front, except on the Dodge van.

6 degrees on the pump would be 12 degrees on the crankshaft. I don't think the pump will give you this much adjustment.

I noted, above, that I fixed my particular problem by loosening that lower mounting bolt. The pump easily moved closer to the engine. In fact, I could probably move it another degree or two.
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  #43  
Old 11-14-2005, 08:42 AM
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Brian, congradulations on getting the SD back together. Wanna race?
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  #44  
Old 11-14-2005, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Pete Burton
Brian, congradulations on getting the SD back together. Wanna race?
Thanks Pete.

I don't think so. Don't want to take advantage of an old man.
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  #45  
Old 11-14-2005, 09:13 AM
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sure I do.

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