Yet another E300D question

[Jay]

What is the torque spec for the aluminum-alloy?? wheels?

[P.E.Haiges]

Jay,

Do you mean the torque specification of the lug bolts that secure the wheels to the axles/spindles?

P E H

[Jay]

Yes, the lug bolts.

[KWC0127]

My 99 E300D just had its second brake pad and rotor replacement at 157k miles. The shop also replaced all the lug bolts, at $4.50 each. Is that a normal occurrence? This has been a very responsible shop for me throughout the years. Thanks

[turbodiesel]

I've never heard of such a thing.. unless they were stripped or broken??

[nhdoc]

Originally Posted by Jay

What is the torque spec for the aluminum-alloy?? wheels?

I was told 85-90 Ft-Lbs by my dealer and that's what I've been using. Torque in a "star" pattern (procede from bolt to opposite bolt until you get them all and then do them all one more time).

FYI - My '98 W210 owner's manual says 80 Ft-Lbs is recommended...but like I said I use 85, don't think it makes any difference.

[Matt L]

Originally Posted by nhdoc

I was told 85-90 Ft-Lbs by my dealer and that's what I've been using. Torque in a "star" pattern (procede from bolt to opposite bolt until you get them all and then do them all one more time).

Boy, it sure takes a long time to get a question answered around here!

That torque value sounds about right, but the owner's manual is out in the car. If this is a W210, note that the manual also says to retorque them after a while. 100 miles or so.

[nhdoc]

Originally Posted by Matt L

Boy, it sure takes a long time to get a question answered around here!

That torque value sounds about right, but the owner's manual is out in the car. If this is a W210, note that the manual also says to retorque them after a while. 100 miles or so.

Yes, checking the torque is not a bad idea after some time. When I bought new tires earlier this year the store stamped on the receipt that this should be done whenever alloy wheels were used.

I'm not convinced the torque you use is as critical as the way you tighten them and that they are all the same torque. So, for example, if they were all tightened to 100 Ft-Lbs using the star pattern method that would probably also be fine, but you don't want the bolts to be loaded to different torques - that is what causes rotors and/or wheels to warp, apparently.

[97dieseldriver]

Just did my second set of pads @120k miles and replaced the front rotors for the first time ( were just at minimum thickness). R.otor life depends on driving conditions (mine is all hiway, flat hi speed) Replacing rotors is a matter of remaining thickness. I don't turn my rotors so I get more miles on them. A dealer will turn rotors whether they need it or not to avoid post service complaints about shuddering and it just so happens they make more money.

I have never had to replace a wheel stud. Very odd.

[P.E.Haiges]

KWC,

I have never heard of replaceing lug bolts either except for cosmetic reasons (old ones were rusted but servicable).

I would ask the shop why they replaced them.

If they didn't get your approval before they replaced them, they are required not to not charge you for them in some states.

I would certainly complain because of the almost $100 unnecessary extra cost.

Let us know what happens.

P E H