I've got an '85 TD and had a leak problem. After darn near a year of trying this and that I discovered the boot that wraps around the shaft from the steering wheel to the steering box had splits in it. Siliconed it, being careful not to get the silicone on the metal parts and no more leak. This boot is located under the hood and attaches to the firewall. The shaft runs uphill and would leak even with the car sitting still.:confused: The water was tracking under the black plastic cover over under the drivers side floor mat and ending up in the rear drivers side floor.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Bill

on my
 

62 fintail, there was a hole in the floor that let mucho water inside. filled the rear foot well.

tom w

water woes
 

my '83 300DT had leaks in the rear windshield seal and a rust hole in the driver side hood hinge area. Did you all rule out the sunroof? Headliner water marks? Roof rack bolts leaking? If sunroof still unknown then try eliminating that from the equation by taping off the seams out on the roof with electrical tape - did it on mine to narrow my search. No harm to the paint but will leave a small amount of residue if you leave it on for the winter.

passenger side leaks
 

i worked on a 123 with a rusted out battery tray. the acid also worked thru the shhet metal.

How to fix that leak?
 

How did you patch that hole under the battery tray? I have exactly the same thing and am wondering how to fix.

Oh, it's an '84 300D Turbo Diesel. Named Betsey.

Thanks, Steve.

it's a gaum!
 

i used 16 gauge sheet metal, seam sealer and rivited it on.

I cut it all out and welded in new metal. I have photos somewhere I will post when I get home.

Door gasket/seal
 

My coupe passenger door seal had a few open cuts where it curves with the car body above the striker. Water worked its way in & down, but layed above the door bottom seal & collected to the point of making it over the raised rocker seam that the plastic trim sits on. Filled the rear passenger floor & a good amount of water would spill to the ground when the door was opened. I wouldn't think something like that was possible. Paul - Florida
300CD '84 290,000

Al. screen and loads of 2 part epoxy....figure it can be a bit ugly where the sun don't shine.:D
I did 2 layers and placed the battery on the 2nd layer of epoxy before it hardened...perfect fit and acid resistant to boot.

Sounds like a couple of good plans here. One more question -- it looks like the corrosion goes down through the drain tube as well. Anyone have luck inserting a new tube inside or something? Or does this not matter once the water drains to the tube.