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  #1  
Old 11-30-2005, 05:46 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 27
New owner Qs: A/C, steering play

Hi folks new to W123s and new to the forum. Searches here have been very helpful so far, but I've got a few questions I couldn't find the answers for.

I just got an 85 300TD and I'm generally pleased, but its got a few issues I want to take care of:

- Excessive steering play (I mean excessive as hell). I"ll be jacking up the car soon and exploring around but I'm pretty sure most of the play is in the steering column itself. The steering box is original and has never been adjusted afaik so I'll be taking a crack at that thanks to the info I gleaned here. If I need a new box, can anyone recommend a rebuilder? A MB mech. told me that all they do with rebuilds is renew the seals, internally worn parts remain the same, so I really don't see the point, but I'm not spending $1200 on a new one either.

- Front brake shimmy. Most likely warped rotors. After learning that a hub rebuild will be necessary to replace the rotors I think I'll have a pro take care of this. What do you think a reasonable price is - $3-400?

- A/C non-functional. According to the previous owner it has not been converted, but he thinks all it needs is a recharge. Here in Seattle A/C is more of an option than a necessity, and I certainly wouldn't need it until next July or so. My question is can it be recharged with something other than R12? I don't care if it doesn't work quite as well, since it won't be needed all that often and not usually on max cold either. I'd rather do this than go through an expensive conversion process. Also is there any point in removing the A/C belt for now? I.e. will I get a little more power or mileagle? The belts are relatively new but should I just cut it off, or is it worth removing and holding on to for the future. Removing it requires removing the P/S belt first can I just put it back on or do folks insist on replacing any belt that comes off reqardless of wear?

Thanks for listening - Colin

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  #2  
Old 11-30-2005, 07:26 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ocean Isle Beach, NC
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Up to 25mm, i.e. one inch, is within specs for steering play. How much is yours? The steering box ought to be the last thing you do to try to remove excessive play. It is usually caused by worn front end parts somewhere. My steering box has never been adjusted.

As for the AC, it had to go somewhere via a leak. The cheapest thing to do is probably to find and fix the leak and fill it with R12 again. Of course in Seattle, R134 wii probably be sufficient, but the cost of the refrigerant used isn't that big of a difference in price.

Len
'83 240D 345,000 miles original owner
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  #3  
Old 12-01-2005, 12:57 PM
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Hi Len thanks for the response. My steering play is huge, it must be at least 5 in of steering wheel circumference. I will be jacking the car up this weekend to take a look at the front end while turning the wheel to try to locate the source of the play. The previous owner had the tie-rods done in '98 and the upper control arms in 2000. I think he may have had some other boots and bushings done as well, so I'm hoping the front end is still in decent shape. Another reason I suspect the steering box is that the car tracks great at freeway speeds, but the play in the wheel is enormous. There is a u-joint and coupler in the steering column that could be loose as well I guess. If my inspection seems to isolate the steering box I'll cautiously adjust it and see if I get any improvement. I do have the car schedule to go into the shop in a couple weeks because I don't have the experience or the tools to do front end work if its necessary.

I'm putting off any work on the A/C for now (it might snow in town today) but I just wanted to get my research started. I probably wont bother removing the A/C belt.

-Colin

FYI here's my baby:
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New owner Qs: A/C, steering play-300td.jpg  
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  #4  
Old 12-01-2005, 01:10 PM
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Don't forget to check the idler arm.......its easy to rebuild and can casue serios play....
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Old 12-01-2005, 01:13 PM
Craig
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I did have my steering box rebuilt buy my indy several years ago. I got the impression that not many people rebuild them because it's a PITA. I went from having about 2-inches of free play to having very little. As I recall, he charged me a couple of hundred, mostly labor. YMMV.
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  #6  
Old 12-01-2005, 04:44 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas
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Steering box rebuild

I did a mini write-up that might help you with your steering box questions...

Pics of Steering Box Swap

hope it helps
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  #7  
Old 12-01-2005, 08:03 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niloc
If I need a new box, can anyone recommend a rebuilder? A MB mech. told me that all they do with rebuilds is renew the seals, internally worn parts remain the same, so I really don't see the point, but I'm not spending $1200 on a new one either.
$543.91 worst case for the box not $1,200 http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1MY1ATEJJ1OA16X8KB&year=1985&make=MB&model=300-TDT-001&category=M&part=Steering+Gearbox

brake rotors are about $27 each pads about $30 for a set..
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #8  
Old 12-02-2005, 04:25 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 27
Adjustment worked!

Hey all I jacked up the car today and looked all around at the front end while a neighbor friend spun the wheel and it definately seemed like most of the play was in the box, so with the front wheels off the ground, we turned the adjustment nut until the wheel felt good, it took over a full turn of the nut. Test drive was awesome, steering wheel play much reduced, but no binding or problems re-centering around corners. I'll have it up on the freeway later today to see how the high speed handling is. I hope all of my repairs will be this easy .

Re brakes: a mech. from a local shop with experience on these old MBs told me new front rotors (if my guess is right) might cost me around $350. I think that sounds pretty good as I'm not too interested in getting into my hubs and everything myself. Its a dark, rainy time of year here, I don't have a heated garage and I'm very busy at work, so it seems like a good use of my money.

Thanks everybody for your suggestions. I did discover water collecting in the right rear body area (where the jack and repair kit are stored) so that will probably be my next DIY repair. Silicone sealant?

-Colin

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