A little hint on splicing harnesses:

Instead of cutting all the wires in one spot so that the splices are all bunched up whey you're done - try cutting the wires to different lengths (shorter on the connector end and longer on the harness end and vice-versa). When the job is done, the splices will be staggered along the harness and much less "blobby" looking.
http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp...401/401-52.gif

Very good info. However, in my case I had barely an inch of wiring on the supplied connector.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...85Stuff160.jpg

I even had to cut some into the rubber plug insulation to get a little more room.
But yes, I did have a little "knot" after I was finished......:o

Man I wish I had known about the rear tach pickup on the 85 when I had the engine out of the car and the transmission off. I suppose the question is now can I run the tach off the front sensor? Was it just that the tach amp was moved inside the control unit?

The pre 85 amps, is it a straight run from the sensor through the amp to the tach? (Can I pull a pre 85 amp like I already have?)

Just curious if the AC will work now without the jumper wire on the klima relay???

I don't know. I'll test it in October. Until then I'm not rocking the boat......:D
:sunny::sun1::sun_smile:sunny::sun1::sun_smile
:flamethro

Follow this thread for conversion to pre-'84 design. Especially post #25.

thanks to this thread i have a working tach in a car i am repairing. i have corroded contacts on the ECU and plug. cleaned them and tach is working, hurray for the internet and smart thoughtful people who take the time to post their work.

Great thread on '85 tach repair. I fixed my tach thanks to the member postings. Checked my sensor which was in spec. Pulled the OVP relay behind the glove and pulled the 10 amp fuse. The plastic jacket came out but the fuse stayed in the relay. Pulled the metal tabs out with pliers. I reinserted it along with the plastic fuse jacket and voila, tach works!

Great information in this post....