|
|
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
My car has somewhat of a similar issue. Upon startup (after waiting for glow plug relay to click) the engine shakes pretty hard and then kicks a few times and then smooths out. The idle upon startup is very close to 500 and then after warmed up completley it idles close to 800. I know I still have an air leak somewhere as there are those little tiny bubbles in the prefilter that build up after the engine has warmed up a bit (but dissapear after shutoff and cool down). I am ordering a new rack dampener pin and hopefully that will help. Then after the snow goes away in the spring Ill really get in there and start evaluating my fuel lines.
__________________
1983 300SD White with Grey interior |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Brian I have read before that you recommend leaving the starting operation for maybe 20/30 seconds. But my brother who is a lincensed mechanic, specialising in heavy-duty diesel trucks all his working life says that the glow plugs, if they are working properly, within a few seconds heat to white hot and then diminish as seconds tick away. Just curious - What do you say to that?
__________________
1984 300SD TURBO DIESEL |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
i dont have
a rebuttal for the brother.
but after reading brians suggestion i have been glowing extra on cold startup. just five extra seconds has made a big difference in my 603. tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Well, I know zero abut the glow plugs used in heavy trucks but I dispute the idea that the ones used in Mercedes heat to white hot.
I believe cherry red is more like it, I am sure there are some here that have connected them up and witnessed them heat out of the engine. I deal with vacuum electronics and can assure you that white hot is impossible in atmosphere because metals oxidize at those temperatures almost instantly. White hot requires a temp in excess of 1050 Degrees C. The only glow plugs that I know if that operate close to that temp are tiny ones on model airplanes. and they heat in few seconds because of their tiny mass. The heavy walls in the pencil type MB GP's take a while to reach cherry red due to their mass and that is one reason for the timer. As for the time that they receive current, that depends on the glow plug timer in the relay box, it allows some to operate for 45 seconds (there is the purple wire mod that makes them heat longer too) but different engines (617 in particular) have shorter or loner times programmed in them. And if the block temp is high enough the timer is bypassed to prevent heating the glow plugs at all, again this depends on the particular model. Some 617 however do not have a block temp sensor so as always, it depends on the car. I'm fairly certain the 603 does sense block temp and the GPO timer drops out after the engine is hot.
__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
FWIW, I "bench tested" 4 GPs from my 240D this morning. I don't know if they were quite "white hot" but they were a lot closer to white than "cherry red". Within about 5 seconds the tips were very bright yellow. It took about 5 more seconds for the remainder on the GP "shaft" to reach that color. They continued to glow for at least 30 seconds after I removed the power. I don't know what specific temperature corresponds to that color, but they get a bit hotter than cherry red.
|
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
BTW, I don't automatically recommend leaving the plugs on for an extended period. I've found that the 603 benefits from additional glow time, especially when it has been sitting for awhile. The 617 doesn't seem to be anywhere near as sensitive. In fact, I can start the 617 when the light goes out and it will run perfectly smooth at temperatures down to 30°F. I have not tried it at lower temps. as of yet, with the new valves and proper IP timing. |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
i agree
the 616 617 doesnt normally need the extra time.
tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I found a temperature chart, it says 1900 F is bright yellow. white hot is 2800 F! http://www.banksengineering.com/Refrac_Temp_vs_Color_Chart.jpg
__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#26
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|