All I know...

Autozone is nationwide... no receipts necessary to get an exchange... It was half the price and I would rather get 4 years out of the battery and know that I am getting a good new one pro rated, than get 10 out of a EXPENSIVE battery and just not have one as strong the last few years of its life... The one area I dont cut corners... Mechanical parts, oil, paint and body work, and car audio. It is either done right or not done... I dont see saving a few bucks on a battery or going with a not so popular brand of tire to be cutting corners either. It is just that I prioritize my car stuff in the best way I know how...

I know you were not saying that I was completely wrong with the whole battery thing, but if a company has a good reputation for making a product, then I know even their most entry level product still has some of the heart and soul of the parent company...if that makes ANY sense...

I am sure there will be many more posts by me, and I am sure many more will not 100% agree with some of my methods... All I know is that its a 1000.00 car that I totally love driving...lol...

Cheers
Aaron

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2000 BMW 323ci 96K
1986 300SDL Turbo 421K (head rebuild/gasket at 411K)
1967 250SE with really rare options needs some motor work
1977 240D automatic - gave to little brother, he now has the 'diesel love' is Turbo240 on this forum
1995 Lifted Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 173K (sold)

*** Next year would love a PO 2004-2005 M3 SMG and when a biz deal pays off, a nice used Porsche Cayenne S.

http://www.museum-mercedes-benz.com/?lang=en
http://www.mbusa.com/heritage/classic-center-california.do

Ya want your car to start in the cold? Do what the folks up north do. Get a battery blanket and plug in in with the block heater. A cold (zero degrees F.) battery has only half the cranking power of a warm (seventy degrees) battery. Oh and a cold battery will not charge very well either. Cold hinders the chemical reaction in both directons.

Has anyone put a second battery (in series) into a 300SD? I realize this is a December / January question, but its easier to resovle in July! I am looking for more CCA for the upcoming Buffalo winters!

You want to do it in parallel, not series. In series you will subject everything in your car to 24 volts which is twice the voltage everything is designed to use.

Just get a good quality, properly sized battery (important) and you don't need two of them. Most hard starting issues are related to other things....like make sure ALL of your glow plugs are working. one or two bad will make for harder starting in colder weather.

The proper sized batteries for these have more than sufficient CCA to do the jobn in winter. And they ARE larger than the average gasser battery.

Thanks for the comment on parallel vs series (my error).

Last winter was one I choose not to repeat. My vehicle, with a new battery, alternator, starter and glow plugs in late fall, failed me too many times. Buffalo, New York has weather issues you may not experience in Virginia, and I simply desire to meet her angry teeth better prepared this winter.

I wrote a thread last Fall about the same battery issue. The interstate installed met the minimum requirements. It now has the correct Monster ( same size as in my 500E )No problems

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92 500E Silver 66k
82 Porsche 911SC 84K
68 Cadillac ( Gone Now )
03 Suburban Z71 200K
85 300SD 217k From Original Owner ( Dad )

I know people in areas of the country that gets far colder weather that have few problems. Remember diesels are going to show the effects of being worn out first at the colder temperatures...as well as if anything isn't as it should be.

Do you know what the compression readings are on all of your cylinders? If you don't it would be a good idea to find out. I'm curious if its getting on the lower end of the range.

I definately agree with the above post. no compression = no start or a supper hard start with old aging diesels. also what Markm mentioned in this post on page one may be over kill for some, but a good guide if you care to follow.
This was what powered my 300SDL

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

The arctic starting tips are great, and ones that I have lived by for the past 2 winters. I keep my vehicle in a warmed garage overnight (and usually have my working block heater plugged in), I replace the glow plugs seasonally (even it they do not need it), I glow 3 x for 30 + seconds each time. Unfortunately, my car sometimes sits unattended (with no access to ac power for the block heater) for 8 - 10 hours. When it does not start, I use my portable battery block to jump it, or in the case it doesn't supply enough juice, I call Triple A. I do not know the compression values, but will get that information~! I am not sure how the compression will determine the number of batteries I want to install, but regardless I will get it quantified!

My point is finding out whats not right...because an enine in good tune and in good condition should fire off after ONE glow cycle...and inside of 10 seconds of cranking. The FIRST attempt.

Compression numbers will give you an indication of the internal condition of the engine. I.E. how badly worn it is.

Both how high they are and the differences between cylinders.

The fact you have been having problems indicates you have an engine that's not running as good as it can. Be it from low compression due to worn/ broken rings rings....needing a valve job? or retarded timing from a timing chain that's worn out.

A compression test is the easiest indicator......a better one is to have a compression and leakdown test run by someone who knows how to do it and interpret the results.

Diesels in pretty sad condition will start and run well in 90 F weather....but they won't even start in 0 F weather.

Compression is a key factor in cranking cylinder temps..(secondary is cranking speed)..and those are whats key in if and when it fires off in colder weather.

An example....my 1983 300D, has 200K miles on it....in 0 F weather, sitting outdoors WITHOUT a block heater will start in less than 3 revolutions on ONE glow cycle. On ONE battery. (properly sized Interstate brand). My 1979 300SD will do it too....but I don't drive THAT car in the winter.

My 350SDL will fire in all weather conditions on the first compression stroke. It's amazing. Just have to wait for the glow plugs. Having a fresh engine and newer battery helps.

-J

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.