Can someone tell me what the stickout length of the input shaft is on the 240D 4spd manual tranny?

TIA!
Don

I measured the total length at 140mm and the case to the end of the splines at 120mm. This is from the "bump" at the base of the input shaft. Those measurements may be off by about 5mm or so- I just had a metric tape measure and it was dark out there. Hope this helps. If you need anything more accurate I'll try again if you can give me a better starting point reference. This is on the earlier, cast iron , two piece W123 tranny, but I would think it hold for the later one as well (?)

What are you trying to do?

Rick

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Thanks Rick. I assume that the "bump" you're referring to is the bearing retainer? More accurate measurements would be helpful, but you need not go out of your way to obtain them for me either. I don't suppose you could also get me the pilot shaft and/or the throwout bearing diameter?

I'm wanting to take the engine from my 240D donor car and mate it up to a T90 transmission in my Jeep. T90s are available with either a 7" or 11" input shaft, however an 8.5" clutch disc will not spline onto the 11" shaft. I plan to use the Benzo bellhousing, clutch fork, slave cylinder, and pressure plate with a Jeep clutch disc. I'll need to have an adapter and pilot bushing custom-made, of course (one of the guys at the early cj5 board is a machinist and sez he can probably do that for me).

Don

OK- understand the project now. Let me do this this weekend when I have some daylight and I'll try to be more accurate. Do you want metric or english measurements? I don't have a throwout bearing on this tranny as I expect to use a new one - IF I ever use it at all.

Sounds like you have the later manual transmission, though- this one is from a '79 or '80. Are you sure these critical dimensions didn't change in '82?

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

I'd prefer English units, but I wont be too picky. Plenty of online converters out there to go from one to the other and back again.

I do indeed have the later stlye transmission with the integrted bell. However I have a bellhousing from an '80 on the way. I hope they didnt' change the design of the clutch fork and the slave cylinder...or the bolt pattern on the back of the engine for that matter!

I'm having a hard time finding a comprehensive description of clutch replacement, part descriptions, etc... Can someone help? Where's the pilot bearing, this is the main question, and do I need to replace it while it's easy to do so? New throwout bearing is a must-do, right? How about the friction disc? Thanks! btw, this is for a 240D with a 300D euro going into it. Keeping the original tranny. Will have an old style one with only 118K for sale, too.

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Ash Peltier - tools, truck, tales
---------510-331-4118-----------
1982 240D - (272,000)
1998 Honda VTR1000F(RT) Superhawk Freeway (58,000) "Madrid"
1996 Toyota T100 4x4 (84,000) "Mary Kay"

bearing is in the end of the crank. if you can spin it and it feels smooth it is prob fine. the throw out bearing unfortunatley prob should be changed. and it is kindof pricey. prob 50 or 60 now. it rides on the clutch fork and pushes on the pp fingers.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The only change that I have run into between "early" and "late" is the throw out bearing. theres about 3/8" difference in the thicknes. I would replace the pilot bearing, its cheap and easy too do. The whole clutch job is streight forward. You need a "stub shaft" to keep the clutch plate in possition while you tighten things up. I use an input shaft from an old Volvo tranny.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Oh, As to the disc. If you have close to 4mm on EACH disc, the clutch plate is nearly new. Look at the rivetes and see how far down the "face" is.
If you need a new disc, I would replace the pressure plate. You will enjoy the feel of a new clutch

Do you have a shop manual? Haynes is ok for clutch stuff.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

If you will change to a t18 or np435 transmission from a ford you can use the mercedes clutch disc and a ford car pilot bushing. You have to drill the 6 holes for the mercedes bellhousing bolts into the front of the trans and machine the center of the bellhousing out to the ford size. YOu will also have to turn down the bearign retainer on the transmission to the chevy size and use a howe hyd TO bearing for a stock clutch and plumb the hyd lines. But you can only get the 4cyl behind the front axle in a YJ.