Yeah it did but my belt would slip when the engine was hot. I pulled the valve cover right after a long drive to try to fix a gasket leak and figured I'd eyeball the chain stretch while I was there. It slipped too much to allow me to turn it but the next morning when it was stone cold I tried it and it was fine. Odd.

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Seth

1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo

You know...changing the trans filter and fluid sounded really easy until I got to this thread. Trans X, use of, sounds like the thing to do...ok. What else do you recommend for a car with 261k miles? I'm now gonna drop the pan and filter and then look for a way to drain the converter...being used to General Motors this concept blows me away but ok...I'll look for a drain bolt. Do I have to re-fill the converter or will it get fluid automatically? I will look at the sticky for advice but since I'm here already...how many quarts should I expect and should I try to get more of the old fluid out by...I dunno...sucking on the driveshaft?? I dinnot know you could even drain the converter...awesome idea and I wish I could do that on my '71 Cutlass. Is it best to let the car settle a few days before draining? I'd like to get as much of that orange-ish looking crap out as posible without getting too crazy. Thanks for driving me nuts...

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1983 300SD... 269,000 miles, nearly 2,500 on my B-100, Faded Grey, Ugly in an elegant sort of way...Duh-Benz


If any of this has been a blasphemy to you, then good, because it's been a blast for me to...A.Whitney Brown

From under the transmission there is a slotted cage that allows you to access the torque converter drain plug.(always use
a new plug gasket).
The T.Q. will fill automatically with the rest of the Transmission system.
The transmission pan has a drain plug also (same deal on the plug gasket).
Please use a new Transmission filter.
Use Factory Torque Specifications on Plugs AND Pan bolts.
Clean the Transmission pan of all sediment and GOO before reinstalling.

Observe Operating Room cleanliness of all surfaces , Before and After breaching Transmission System Seals!!!

I've always used a large screwdriver on the flanges of the Torque Converter
(From underneath) to turn around to the Converter Drain Plug.[I'm already
underneath and ready to drain]

I have the same conditions (259K) with my tranny, it started a year ago. I have done all that has been suggested by everyone here including Trans-X, then later after no improvement a change to Mobil One and adjustments to the modulator.........nothing has worked!

I now only start up with the shifter in third and only shift into 4th after 35 or 40 mph......in this way, it's not lugging the tranny and there is no flare from 3 into 4. I've been shifting this way for a year and the tranny flare hasn't got any worse.......also...all other shifting aspects, including reverse, have worked normally, and continue to do so.

You should also check the bowdin cable, it adjusts for point of shift....properly adjusted, it should shift gears at or around 2000 rpm.

If my Tach worked I could ckeck out the RPM for the different shifts,but that is a whole nother thread!!!