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  #16  
Old 12-14-2005, 11:18 PM
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Location: Concord, MA
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Actually a block heater is very practical..

Quote:
Originally Posted by d.delano
I don't understand why you even need one in the first place. My car starts right up no matter how cold it is. You people in TX- why do you need block heaters? Atlanta- what's the advantage to having a block heater in Atlanta Georgia when I can be up here in DC and not even need one no matter how cold it gets. Sometimes it's as though it starts better in extremely cold inclement weather than in the warm months. Not trying to be a smartass it all just seems a bit over the top. If it's such a chore why bother when you don't even need it anyway if the car has a strong battery, syn oil, antigel, good plugs, and the valves have been set it should be good to go. If your car won't start in the winter without a heater perhaps the dough would be better spent on the actual problem rather than a workaround. If somebody can help me understand without being rude I'd be grateful. Seems like an awful lot of trouble to have to go to.
That being said I'd rather go with the factory option than the splice kit. The splice kit seems like a jerry-rig solution.
I agree that in warm climates you dont really need a block heater. In DC you still get quite a bit of cold (cool?) weather. Here in Massachusetts as I sit at the computer, it is about 2 deg. F and dropping...yes, my block heater is plugged in (on a timer to go on at about 3 am). But, you dont need really frigid sub-zero weather to justify a block heater. I think when the night time temperatures go into the 30's (F) regularly, it is good practice to plug in the heater every night (assuming the car is out in the driveway or a cold garage) ....this way you avoid repeated cold starts, which will prolong engine life. It seems that this is particularly important to us MBZ diesel enthusiasts who would like to run our cars well into the 300K to 400K mile range. I plug mine in every night from around mid November to early March....if you put in on a timer so it goes on for 2 or 3 hours before you leave in the morning, your electricity costs will be minimal. Even on a frigid night like tonight, after the block heater is on for about 3 hours, the top of the valve cover is luke warm and the car starts up easily in the am.

Mark

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  #17  
Old 12-14-2005, 11:36 PM
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all the marine "block" heaters I've seen heat the coolant, not the block. Heating the radiator/coolant is worst methods to allow for easy cold weather start ups PEH...except for all the rest.
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  #18  
Old 12-14-2005, 11:43 PM
sailor15015's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTUpower
all the marine "block" heaters I've seen heat the coolant, not the block. Heating the radiator/coolant is worst methods to allow for easy cold weather start ups PEH...except for all the rest.
Sorry I don't understand this. Are you saying its the worst or that there are worse methods out there? Not trying to be a smart alleck, just wanting to hear all sides of the debate.
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  #19  
Old 12-15-2005, 01:50 AM
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I've only used my lower hose heater about 6 times this entire season so far, mine starts fine down to 5 deg's anyways (below that there is more cranking involved) I've started without any heater as low as -9F The hose heaters don't waste energy, plenty of it goes to the block, and keeps it plenty warm for quick starts in the coldest of temps....since I only use it when its really cold, the electrical cost isn't worth mentioning. (can run the thing 4 hours for about 13 cents with our local electric rate, thats nothing) I'll probably not even use $10 in electricity the entire winter with it.
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  #20  
Old 12-15-2005, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.delano
I don't understand why you even need one in the first place. My car starts right up no matter how cold it is. You people in TX- why do you need block heaters? Atlanta- what's the advantage to having a block heater in Atlanta Georgia when I can be up here in DC and not even need one no matter how cold it gets. Sometimes it's as though it starts better in extremely cold inclement weather than in the warm months. Not trying to be a smartass it all just seems a bit over the top. If it's such a chore why bother when you don't even need it anyway if the car has a strong battery, syn oil, antigel, good plugs, and the valves have been set it should be good to go. If your car won't start in the winter without a heater perhaps the dough would be better spent on the actual problem rather than a workaround. If somebody can help me understand without being rude I'd be grateful. Seems like an awful lot of trouble to have to go to.
That being said I'd rather go with the factory option than the splice kit. The splice kit seems like a jerry-rig solution.

Well, when its 10 degrees and snowing you have near instant heat upon startup....for the effort of unplugging an extension cord (two minutes time)....I have mine run off a timer that turns it on two hours before I leave and off shortly afterwards.

That is worth it to me....
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  #21  
Old 12-15-2005, 08:32 AM
zach
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woah!

This is the most amount of replies I have ever gotten off of a post! Thanks for the views posted.
As it is I have 2 block heaters 1 is mine and other is for mom's 124. AND I have access to a LIFT plus I have a 3/4" drive stuff and breaker bars or even impacts with a big compressor at the shop I work at. Hey I paid enough money for the tools and schools to be a diesel tech/mech. I GONNA DO IT! maybe this weekend
I am gonna do a coolant flush and Zerex refill and Tstat replacement too. Depending on which avenue is taken for block heater install, top or bottom, I will
look into EGR disabling and intake cleaning. ok then, I gotta get some sleep. As always, thank you very much. zachariah
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  #22  
Old 12-15-2005, 08:39 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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if you

have a lift do it from below.

tom w
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  #23  
Old 12-15-2005, 08:51 AM
zach
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one more time

Is it a good idea to remove steering likages for maximum torqe and leverage?

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