Thanks for your interest, and adding to our knowlege archive in the forum!

I had loosened the injector lines when I purged them of air, and fuel oozed out before I tightened them.

The fuel looks liquidy like diesel. Checked the prefilter. I also cracked the main filter and looked inside. I also unscrewed the lever sender in the tank and peered down in. So visually Id say no grease in diesel. What would contaminated fuel look like? floating chunks?

The car ran great with no loss of power the last time it ran. In fact it started on the first revolution. Of course it was nice and warm out (30 deg F!)

I doubt the grease system is to blame, other than perhaps loose fuel lines. I found some clamps have loosened, and I did hear a hissing sound ...somewhere... in the vicinity of the pump while cranking. I will inspect that tomorrow...


The glow plugs work, as in the car starts (or I should say HAD started)faster with them, but it is rough and misses for a minute.. I agree it would be a good think to test or just replace (they are the fast style ones)

Also the injectors, they are visually the same condition as 20,000 miles ago (before the conversion), all have small dished burned areas, not as bad as some examples Ive seen.

How do you "pull start" it?

This does no good.
The center hole is filtered fuel going to the injection pump.
Attached is a picture of the secondary filter opened up.

Attached Thumbnails

 

that would be fungi, right?

gross!

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Don't get sick on the keyboard.

Diesel filters, no tank strainers please.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/140349-diesel-filters-no-tank-strainers-please-post1046422.html?posted=1#post1046422

Well, this thread has a happy ending. What began as a suggestion that I over-cranked and ethered my compression away, proved to be not more than perhaps an educated fear. TO make a long story short, I plugged in the block heater and in 3 hours the car started in about 5 cranks, without adding oil to the injector holes or WD40 or anything.

I think the best solution for cold starting problems is install a block heater. And while your at it check your injectors, fuel and air filters. DO all of that before you fear the worst, and start dumping in solvents!


Now, as far as "damage" from the WVO, I notice that I went up the big hill from my house easier, so cleaning off my injectors after 2 years must have helped. now in 2 years I went 20,000 miles, and I've only driven on grease 3,000...

There was so much soot in my prechamber I thought there was no hole beneath the injector save a pinhole!! I poked through easily with a screw driver and forced out the crush washers and replaced them...

So I will respect the SOLID science that determined that the WVO should be entering the injector pump no less than 160 to 175 deg. F.. I was doing seeming fine at 100 to 135 deg F. except a barely noticeable loss of power and coking of the prechamber. But at least I caught it. So I'll get that Veg-Therm everybody has been raving about, that electrically brings the vege temp up to were it should be....

Thanks for everyone that responded, and I hope this is helpful to others reading it.

Mike