300SD brake rotors
Im going to put brand spanking new rotors on the front of my SD because its been harder to slow down even with new pads and the rotor on the car is the original one so its pretty worn.
Im looking at these and i like the $46 one that is sport vented with those lines drilled in are there any negative things about using those kind of rotors? http://www.***************/search/productx.aspx?sid=dvqq2wjsmlxwini5zqranwfe&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1194027@300SD&year=1983&ci d=14@Brake%20%26%20Wheel%20Hub&gid=1896@Brake%20Disc/Brake%20Rotor |
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these are pretty nice. i had a set of them on my old sd. once i get ahead in money again im gonna get a new set. your problem probly isnt the rotors. take a look at your calipers,hoses and maybe try changing the brake fluid and bleeding the system. the pic i attached i think is the best. i dont really like the cross drilled as they can crack at the holes and then they are worthless
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How many miles has it been? The pads have to wear into the rotors before you get any decent stopping...
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They're great
I have em on the front of my 300SD, they work great. I can lock up the tires on dry pavement from 60 mph.
Use Pagid pads with em. They dust bad, but are soft and grab really hard. |
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Going dustless.....a clue
Onna another Benz, I put new rotors and porterfield pads. And at the suggestion of Jerry Jones at FORMYMERCEDES.COM treated the disc with the cryogenic freeze bath. This re-orients the molecular structure of the disc. NASCAR does it on all their race cars. The result is that you will have much less dusting on the wheels and superior braking ability. Oh, yeah, on that car, I just have to clean and rewax the wheels about once each year. And it is so easy to clean them.....no scrubbing. Just soap them up and wash off.
Regards Run-em |
I second checking the callipers and brake lines and flush the fluid. I don't know about the pagid pads but textars are the preferred pad for optimum rotor life and excellent stoppping. I don't know how much difference quality of rotors means.
I don't know how different the steel alloys and thickness are. I usually buy the cheapest rotors but I spend a little extra on other parts of the system. |
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A 300SD is not a performance car. Treat it like a baby. It is ok to drive it fast but you are not going SCCA racing. If you want brake dust to stay off your wheels you can find the dust guards. Worry about cryogenic if you are going to race a hot little c class or your e55 amg. just my $0.02
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Regards Run-em |
Interesting. Liquid nitrogen is cheap. Wouldn't everyone cryo treat their brakes then. I still suspect if you measure you will find increased rotor wear. It is still fascinating. Not sure I would recommend it though. Just keep a sharp eye on your calliper and wheels. I don't think it should be excessive heat unless you are racing. I doubt the callipers could take the additional heat dispersal to see that kind of performance gain in intense stop and go driving.
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Wow. I am impressed with the anecdotal stories. I may have to try that the next time I do a brake job. I would have never guess that cryo freezing the rotors would give you such a performance gain. I know how you heat treat metals but I don't remember in material science much about cryo treatment. I think I sold my material science book. If I still had it I would be checking it out.
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This solution won't eliminate dust(will reduce it since it increases pad life). If I had this done I would have the brakes slotted and drilled as well. The price to do this seems reasonable. I'll take back my earlier comments. This seems to be a pretty straight material improvement. I would definitely do this if I ever get my S-Class or since the rotors for those suckers are so expensive and pads are expensive as well.
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ATE power discs are great! Another plus is that the slots seem to shed water very fast.
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