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300SD brake rotors
Im going to put brand spanking new rotors on the front of my SD because its been harder to slow down even with new pads and the rotor on the car is the original one so its pretty worn.
Im looking at these and i like the $46 one that is sport vented with those lines drilled in are there any negative things about using those kind of rotors? http://www.***************/search/productx.aspx?sid=dvqq2wjsmlxwini5zqranwfe&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1194027@300SD&year=1983&ci d=14@Brake%20%26%20Wheel%20Hub&gid=1896@Brake%20Disc/Brake%20Rotor |
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these are pretty nice. i had a set of them on my old sd. once i get ahead in money again im gonna get a new set. your problem probly isnt the rotors. take a look at your calipers,hoses and maybe try changing the brake fluid and bleeding the system. the pic i attached i think is the best. i dont really like the cross drilled as they can crack at the holes and then they are worthless
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How many miles has it been? The pads have to wear into the rotors before you get any decent stopping...
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They're great
I have em on the front of my 300SD, they work great. I can lock up the tires on dry pavement from 60 mph.
Use Pagid pads with em. They dust bad, but are soft and grab really hard. |
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Going dustless.....a clue
Onna another Benz, I put new rotors and porterfield pads. And at the suggestion of Jerry Jones at FORMYMERCEDES.COM treated the disc with the cryogenic freeze bath. This re-orients the molecular structure of the disc. NASCAR does it on all their race cars. The result is that you will have much less dusting on the wheels and superior braking ability. Oh, yeah, on that car, I just have to clean and rewax the wheels about once each year. And it is so easy to clean them.....no scrubbing. Just soap them up and wash off.
Regards Run-em |
I second checking the callipers and brake lines and flush the fluid. I don't know about the pagid pads but textars are the preferred pad for optimum rotor life and excellent stoppping. I don't know how much difference quality of rotors means.
I don't know how different the steel alloys and thickness are. I usually buy the cheapest rotors but I spend a little extra on other parts of the system. |
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A 300SD is not a performance car. Treat it like a baby. It is ok to drive it fast but you are not going SCCA racing. If you want brake dust to stay off your wheels you can find the dust guards. Worry about cryogenic if you are going to race a hot little c class or your e55 amg. just my $0.02
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Regards Run-em |
Interesting. Liquid nitrogen is cheap. Wouldn't everyone cryo treat their brakes then. I still suspect if you measure you will find increased rotor wear. It is still fascinating. Not sure I would recommend it though. Just keep a sharp eye on your calliper and wheels. I don't think it should be excessive heat unless you are racing. I doubt the callipers could take the additional heat dispersal to see that kind of performance gain in intense stop and go driving.
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Wow. I am impressed with the anecdotal stories. I may have to try that the next time I do a brake job. I would have never guess that cryo freezing the rotors would give you such a performance gain. I know how you heat treat metals but I don't remember in material science much about cryo treatment. I think I sold my material science book. If I still had it I would be checking it out.
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This solution won't eliminate dust(will reduce it since it increases pad life). If I had this done I would have the brakes slotted and drilled as well. The price to do this seems reasonable. I'll take back my earlier comments. This seems to be a pretty straight material improvement. I would definitely do this if I ever get my S-Class or since the rotors for those suckers are so expensive and pads are expensive as well.
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ATE power discs are great! Another plus is that the slots seem to shed water very fast.
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OK well ill check everything you guys said to check. fluids and everything else. But i do want to replace the rotors mainly because they look very worn and they are the original rotors from 20+ years ago.
thanks guys |
Rebuild To Specs
Breaks are one thing that I know for sure. I'm an ASE Break Tech.
What you need to do first off is inspect your current breaks. The easiest thing to do is feel the edge of the rotor and feel for a raised lip. If you have a lip you will need to have your rotors turned. That said, if they are 20 years old then you most likely have that lip and are most likely under the minimum spec. you can take a micrometer and measure the rotor. Measure it in 3 or 4 places because it might be warped. If you have a book on your car, or go to the parts store they will tell you what the minimum measurement is. It is sometimes stamped into the rotor, I cane remember if Mercedes did this or not... you might have to convert it to inches if you are using an inch micrometer. There are 2 different minimum numbers depending on manufacture, I can't remember which type Mercedes has, but it’s easy to understand. There is a minimum "cut too" number meaning that if it’s larger then that your ok, and you can have them cut to that measurement. And a minimum "discard" measurement. Meaning if it below that number toss the rotor. And you can have it cut to within +15 thousandths of the discard number. You’ll find one of these numbers. Measure your rotor before you take it to the machine shop/parts store/break shop. Will save you some time having some one else measures it. If the rotor can't be cut because it is to thin, then you need to buy new ones. I have no experience with the rotor you have picked, but it seems to have a good reputation. If you are picking a new rotor the basic rules I use are, is it made in American? German? It better be made in one of those places or its pretty much junk. The rotors made in china and other developing countries are built to specs. And will work, but the refinement of the steel just isn't there and you'll be changing you rotors sooner then you would with a quality rotor. I primarily use Raybestos; they have a good price per quality. Replace your bearings and your seals. Be sure to pack the grease into the rotors. And change all bearings races. Change your pads. You should change your break fluid. It is suppose to be changed ever 2 years. Break fluid is free of water. So it will suck it out of the air with time. This will cause rust and other problems that can cause break line clogs. Bleed your breaks with a clear tube connected to the bleeder and look at the color. Keep bleeding it till you see the color change from root beer, to Champaign. Keep you master cylinder full. Bleed from Right Rear, Left Rear, Front Right, and Front Left. Working your way closer to the master cylinder. This might sound stupid, but I was taught in high school auto to pour fluid in the master cylinder and then pump the peddle till it stiffens up. That a bad idea. So as I said this might sound like I’m stating the obvious, but some teachers don't do this correctly. Have one person in the car and one on the floor. The guy on the floor cracks the bleeder, then tells the guy in the car to put the peddle to the floor, and then the guy in the car tells him when it’s down and the guy at the bottom closed the bleeder. Then the guy lets the peddle up... sorry for sounding like a know it all. But bleeding is fast and easy this way. With new pads and rotors you will stop hard and square. I changed all my breaks (all 4 rotors, all pads, and the parking shoes in the back rotors) last year and it made driving a lot better. I probably said too much... but a quality break job was never spelled out to me till I took the class in college. So I thought I’d spared the knowledge. Nik |
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SirNik84 MB brake rotors are very soft and will have a lip within a few thousand miles. At less then 20k miles my discs already have a healthy lip. Thats why they usually only last 2-3 sets of pads.
Very nice write up though! :cool: |
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o they can still warp. treating them is to reduce not stop warpage and chewed up disks. it does make a noticeable diff. though. alot of people have things like cylinder heads ,valves and pistons treaed this way. |
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so did you ever purchase those rotors? if so what did you think?
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Drilling brake rotors, cutting grooves for the "gas" to escape, etc. all sounds nice but doesn't do a thing for braking power.
Total swept area contributes to stopping power. You can buy a good set of rotors for this car for about $36 (ATE) that will last just fine. I got 100,000 miles out of my front rotors on a 95 model E300D. Don't go looking for fancy solutions to basic problems. You're just making some marketing person rich. |
Please read the following thread.
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Boy, that's cold hearted. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/124732-boy-thats-cold-hearted-post1052015.html#post1052015 |
I just sit here and laugh. One guy heats the rotors to change them magically, another guy freezes them.
I remember a company in Ohio called Summit Racing who would sell you something to insulate your headers to keep them hotter longer, then, on the next page of the catalog, another product to keep your headers cooler! This crap is about the marketing dollars folks. That's all. |
Your spell check is changing what you are saying.
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Your spell check is changing what you are saying. breaks when you mean Brakes, I edited this to read correctly, but your original still looks very odd. Brake flush every two years?! U'r kidding right? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/96852-brake-flush-every-two-years-ur-kidding-right.html Why should I flush my brake fluid every year, you ask? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/38856-why-should-i-flush-my-brake-fluid-every-year-you-ask.html#post220599 Power Bleeder or what? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/103226-power-bleeder-what.html#post707359 Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/117258-brake-bleeder-power-bleeder-homemade.html |
I can buy 20 sets of "China" rotors for one set of "premium" rotors.
I'm sticking with good ole' China rotors. |
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No, they don't warp faster. They're just fine. I will continue with the Chinese part.
Next you'll tell me that those rotors add 10 years to your life or that they make you thinner and more handsome. |
I dunno bout that. I went with Chicom rotors on my wife's Lincoln. Replaced them twice before I gave up and bought Brembos. Now no more brake shake.
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Hmmm ... this thread has become very interesting - I had lots of questions initially - mainly along the line of "what does the micrometer read for "brake" thickness?" Pretty mundane stuff.
Re some of the follow-up posts 1. Why would you want to replace bearings (barings? :-))when they simply need to be serviced? 2. Why would one want to buy Chinese anything? (Sorry - it's a "whose side are you on" with me on China (remember, they knock our aircraft down and hold our military folks hostage? ... how long will it take before greedy corporate world and weirdly price sensitive Americans/Europeans conspire (however so accidentally) to ensure China is in position to own all production (until a lower priced location is found) ... cost is not everything! (am now off soapbox) 3. Am still laughing about cryo treated brake materials for a 120 hp car .... 4. Packing grease into the rotors? 5. Last I heard, pushing pedal to floor during brake bleeding can damage seals ... 6. If there is nothing wrong with your front (or rear) brakes why would changing them make anything better? 7. Why would you want to buy the cheapest of anything (especially a rotor) and then spend extra on other parts of the same subsystem? |
Answers
Hello stephenson
Personal choice, no harm done. RE: Why would you want to replace bearings when they simply need to be serviced? As am I. RE: Am still laughing about cryo treated brake materials for a 120 hp car .... You must pack grease into the bearing hub to feed bearings, not rotor, that was just a case of poor wording. Pushing the brake pedal to floor during brake bleeding, can NOT damage seals in a good master cylinder, such a condition would be a CRITICAL SAFETY = NHTSA issue. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration = (NHTSA). Please define; nothing wrong with your brakes. I know many people who compulsively replace brake pads at 75%. Why would you want to buy the cheapest of anything = P E H, please help!!! The second portion of this question defies logic: and then spend extra on other parts of the same subsystem? |
Every sring I flush the brake fluid by pumping the pedal. If that causes the master cylinder to blow it was marginal and needed replacing anyway.
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we all have diff. opinions on what grade,brand and such on the things we buy. ive learned to always buy the best i can afford because in most cases it will last longer. my dad has always bought the cheaper stuff and all through the years this and that is always breaking. thats alot of my reason for the things i buy. on the subject of rotors, i always try to get the ate and other higher brands. not only are they highly regarded and i have had good luck with them but that is what mb put on the car originaly. thats just my thoughts
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These would look so cool behind the wheels, with body matched calipers of course...
http://www.brakeworld.com/catalog.asp?page_id=items&catid=1 |
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At $290. per pair, I think you better pass.:eek: |
Well the price on those are nuts, I think I can get Zimmerman for $90 each.
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I've run both on another car...so I have a reference point from experience. |
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True, I locked up the wheels in Shabby last week, I was spacing out.... Hmmm yellow light turning red..... It taught me to remember HOW to brake, ABS has ruined my ability to "feel" the brake in a panic situation...
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I would install cross drilled for looks only, I know they are pointless on street cars. However newer MB's come with cross drilled front rotors stock. I wonder why?
BTW W126 front calipers are 2 piston. |
I stand corrected, I just looked at the calipers in the garage and they are 2 piston.... I must have been dreaming....:rolleyes:
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I tried this once on my car. I couldnt tighten the calipers since it was hitting the hub, so I abandoned this project. I probably got the wrong set of rotor & caliper. Do you know which model/year benz should be used so it would fit the 123s? The SD rotor I have was about 1/4" inch shorter than my original rotor. |
bump. Anyone pls.
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You'll need to swap the vent pans and hubs, the calipers alone won't fit...
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