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  #31  
Old 12-24-2005, 09:29 PM
Craig
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I've also had a cheap 6 amp charger for years, and it's never been a problem. It will fully charge a decent battery overnight, and in most cases will get it "charged enough" to start in a couple of hours. My experience is that if that charger is not adequate, either I need a new battery, or I have other bigger problems.
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  #32  
Old 12-24-2005, 09:44 PM
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WHunter,

I think you mean a low current (amperes) charger not a low voltage charger.

I know a high current charger will have a higher terminal voltage but only by a few volts.

P E H
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  #33  
Old 12-25-2005, 12:07 AM
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Ouch

Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges
WHunter,

I think you mean a low current (amperes) charger not a low voltage charger.

I know a high current charger will have a higher terminal voltage but only by a few volts.

P E H
You are correct.
I did not state it correctly, that is what edit is for.
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  #34  
Old 12-25-2005, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwitchKitty
The info you need is in the quote above.

The roadside test is to start the car with the headlights on. See if the headlights dim while cranking. Your are in effect using the headlights as a voltmeter. Try with a known problem-free car for comparison and verification.

Bad connections, with high resistance, get hot under a load.

Merry Christmas, or if that pisses you off, Happy Holidays.
Thats also a bad volt regulator, or alternator...
I have the latter, because I replaced the previous... Still dim at idle, speaker still kackles during startup...

Merry Christmas, Why am I up?
~Nate
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  #35  
Old 12-26-2005, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nateid15
Thats also a bad volt regulator, or alternator...
I have the latter, because I replaced the previous... Still dim at idle, speaker still kackles during startup...

Merry Christmas, Why am I up?
~Nate
Nope, you read wrong. I said dims while cranking as in while the starter is engaged. The starter, headlights and glow plugs are the load and the brightness of the headlights gives you an indication of the voltage under a load.
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And that's the way it is. Sorry if this is not what you wanted to hear. I reserve the right to be wrong, others take the liberty. My posts are not intended to be complete, just enough to help you find your own answers. Don't let the Relevance Paradox get you.

Last edited by TwitchKitty; 12-26-2005 at 02:16 PM.
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  #36  
Old 12-26-2005, 02:14 PM
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Another battery test that can be done by the home mechanic is checking the voltage cell by cell. You can check the voltage from the negative terminal to the electrolyte in each cell. Each cell should add about 2.1 volts. If you find a cell that does not add it's share then you have a bad cell and the battery needs to be replaced.

If you don't understand this and the dangers involved, don't try it.

It is a lot easier and safer to let an autoparts store do a free battery and charging system test.
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And that's the way it is. Sorry if this is not what you wanted to hear. I reserve the right to be wrong, others take the liberty. My posts are not intended to be complete, just enough to help you find your own answers. Don't let the Relevance Paradox get you.
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  #37  
Old 12-26-2005, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon
Like this ? My car would always start with a strong crank I just dint know why it did this yesturday. All i did was drive it around the block and go park in my driveway. Ill get the voltmeter and check the ground connections. Ill also get a jump from my friend with an old MR2 and test the charging system too
I think this is the key to the diagnosis, without being there of course. One of two things happened. A.) The battery has failed due to the plates being shorted, or B.) cable connections are corroded and need to be cleaned.
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  #38  
Old 12-29-2005, 02:54 PM
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ok i just tested the battery i had the car at idle and the meter read 12.1 volts.. and at 2k rpm it was reading 13.55 on the meter
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  #39  
Old 12-29-2005, 03:33 PM
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TheDon,

What you did was test your charging system, not the battery.

That sounds about right so your charging system (alternator, regulator, brushes and connecting wires) is OK.

You still have to do a load test on the battery. Connect your voltmeter leads across the battery posts (not the cable clamps) and crank the engine with the starter. THe battery should be fully charged when U do this.

How much does the voltage drop? How long will the starter crank the engine? Do this when the engine is cold and won't start. You can pull out the cable connecting the GP to the GP relay so engine won't start.

P E H
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  #40  
Old 12-29-2005, 03:35 PM
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oj P.E. ill do that test tomorrow.. when i can get ahold of the volt meter
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  #41  
Old 12-30-2005, 01:06 AM
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TheDon,

Buy yourself an electronic multimeter. They can be bought for $20. When I bought mine 15 years ago, they were $80 or more.

P E H
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  #42  
Old 12-30-2005, 03:37 AM
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Hmmm

volt ohm meter $15.49
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=volt%20ohm%20meter

I am getting one of these tomorrow:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/141238-car-thermometer-voltmeter-%244-97-a.html#post1055502
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