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#16
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Hmm the rubber one? Yeah I replaced that a long time ago, that won't affect the leaking at the crush seal though.
The rubber one seems to be to stop fuel from draining down the bolt.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#17
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Yeah the rubber one does nothing to stop the leaking by the crush washer. The fuel flow goes in on the side of the filter through the 5-6 little holes around the side, through the element, then up through the center bolt, out around it in that small area around the bolt, and then out the tube and down into the IP.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#18
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Quote:
You can thank me latter
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Matt (SD,CA) 1984 300SD.. White/Chrome Bunts..Green 1997 2500 Dodge Ram 5.9 Cummins 12 Valve 36 PSI of Boost = 400+hp & 800+tQ .. ..Greenspeed 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Cummins 5.9 H.O "596hp/1225tq" 6 spd. Man. Leather Heated seats/Loaded..Flame Red....GREENSPEED Global warming...Doing my part, Smokin da hippies.. Fight the good fight!...... |
#19
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Did you replace the rubber o ring??? It goes on the bolt before you screw the filter on the bolt.
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1981 300D 147k 1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k 1979 300D 234k (sold) 1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold) Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair |
#20
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Thats impossible, the o-ring does nothing but seal the filtered fuel from the unfiltered fuel down inside the chamber, it does not keep the fuel from leaking out of the assembly, that takes place at the copper washer. The o-ring is way too far down in there to play any role in outside leaks. Fuel flows up through that hollow bolt and then out around under the bolt head/copper washer, then through that orifice to the IP.
I just tightened the heck out of it and now it seems to have stopped leaking. If it starts again I will get a new copper washer, and use that fairly tight, but with my orange sealant all around the bolt head too, that'll stop it.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#21
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When you don't have new copper washers, I reuse the old ones after anealing them.
FYI........... Put washers on a peice of wire and cherry red them with the torch...let them air cool and you'll find they are soft and will crush and seal properly again. .
__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ] "A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money." |
#22
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I tried doing it with a lighter, I have no torch.... (yet.... ) I'll probably have one by the next time I do this though....
I could have also just stuck it on a hotdog roasting stick, and fired up our propane heater, and held it in the flame inside that for a half a minute or something....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#23
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Propane torch will work fine....just let them turn cherry red and don't quench them. Lighter ? Hmmm. Not unless it was one of the huge Texas ones I saw once
.
__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ] "A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money." |
#24
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Quote:
Now that we have a propane tank around for our heating....I'm going to look into getting a torch.... Then I should be all set with that....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#25
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I am sure mother nature loves you for soaking down your driveway with diesel...
...that stuff doesn't come off easy. heh Maybe some alge will eat it up for you I'll cut open my filter when I replace it this weekend and post some pictures too. Mine has about 31k and some bio-d, WVO, and a lot of regular diesel useage Ran about 1200 gallons through it |
#26
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I had to go back and look close at the bolt to even see the O-ring. Does anyone know the dimension of the O-ring? or the Crush Washers?
I have filters at the ready, but no O-rings or extra crush washers.
__________________
1981 240D, Auto Trans, 160k miles -- CRASHED! |
#27
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Quote:
Not only did I change the rubber or oring 3-4 times, I have probably gone through 6-8 copper crush washers. And to top that all off I thought maybe the bolt itself was bad and coughed up $15 for a new bolt. Drum roll please... It still leaks! So heck with it.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#28
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after changing my fuel filters my car now leaks a little bit.. and i too say .. to heck with it until it pours out like a gusher
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#29
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It will never pour out like a gusher (or pulse....it pulses with the IP like a heart beat, its weird. ) but it will ooze, I bet you'd lose half a gallon per tank/fillup with a consistent oozing....
Today, I found it was STILL oozing fuel, so I tore it apart, AGAIN, and fired up our 35,000 btu propane garage heater, stuck the crush washer in there on the end of my 18" breaker bar hanging from a metal clip, and heated the washer CHERRY red for about 20 seconds, four times. I then reassembled, got it all set and torqued, fired it up, and GAH, STILL LEAKING, albeit veeery slowly, but it seeps. So, I cleaned it off like heck with degreaser and brake cleaner, and have now applied a good solid bead of my Orange RTV high temp silicon around the bolt, and massaged it in nice and smooth like I did for my turbo drain tube. Its still curing, I'll fire it up tomorrow afternoon to see if it worked....I also torqued it at least 1/3 less than I used to, so that puts less stress on the housing too. The silicon is high temp, chemical resistant, and pressure resistant. So I think it should work.........we'll see.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#30
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Anyone have any ideas why they are having so much trouble with these crush washers/housings?
My crush washers are probably the origionals (maybe 2nd for the car) and I reused it when I changed the filter and it doesn't leak a drop. Hm. |
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