I am considering replacing my motor mounts.

When I purchased my car from my in-laws 8 years ago w/125k miles....they were quite upset at the car shaking that was going on. I replaced the motor mounts and the shaking went away! That was 8 years ago and 150k miles later, the car is shaking more than I would like. The current mounts also look a little flattened. I have purchased 2 new engine mounts and would like to install myself if possible with the hope of reducing the car rocking slightly back and forth at idle!

The car is 87 300D - 603 engine with 278k miles.

1) Is this a DIY type of job and how long should it take? (I am a novice with increasing confidence....for example....I have recently replaced all my glow plugs myself)
2) Where should jack be placed in order to safely lift up engine and not break something?
3) Are there any special tools, procedures, or precautions that should be taken in order to to this job? (It kinda looks like a straight-forward type of job...just put new engine mount where old one was.)
4) Also, my old engine mounts look like big rubber round blocks and new mounts are encased in metal and are supposed to be proper OEM part for my car...does this sound right? I was expecting the old and new mounts to look closer to the same thing.

Thanks for any advice that can be passed my way.

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Jeff L

1987 300D (277,000)
1995 E300 Diesel (122,000)

Well....I haven't done this yet butI can pass along some things I have picked up along the way:

On new mounts 2 blue dots go to the front.

Mounts are held in underneath by 8mm allen head bolts visible through cut-outs in cross member frame.

Locknut on engine shock is 10mm. Use counterhold on shaft with 7mm wrench. DO NOT use channel locks.

Mounts are retained by 2 6mm bolts from up top. The torque for these is 30Nm.

Disconnect accelerator linkages and lift motor at lower oil pan. Use a block of wood. Watch fan blades there should be enough room don't lift too much.

Be very careful putting that 8mm bolt back in. It strips easily. Move the engine carefully when needed.

Bolts are torqued to 70Nm, use blue loctite.

Installation is basically the reverse of removal. Use lots of penetrating oil and clean everything before installation.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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Thanks for the information which is helpful.

Should the car be on ramps (elevated?) when doing this?

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Jeff L

1987 300D (277,000)
1995 E300 Diesel (122,000)

I sure would elevate the car. My favorite way is to get the end where I am going to do most of the work on jack stands and the other end on ramps. Make sure it is setting solid in any case. It is very difficult to slide under the engine of that car without raising it and it is impossible if you are using a creeper. Happpy New Year

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