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Old 12-30-2005, 11:05 PM
pberku's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 737
If it is the pump, and it well could be, I would consider disconnecting the electrical plug and just forgetting about it. I doubt that you will notice any difference in cabin temperature, even at idle it does not make that much of a difference. If however your budget allows then go for it, and get a new one.

Something else to try, is that if you discover that it draws too much amperage when connected to a battery, than try reversing the leads and running it backwards for a few minutes. A fw light taps on the side may help to get it going. There may have been some corrosion that can be cleaned by running this thing backwards. If it does clear the problem then you can re-install it, but put an inline fuse just in case.

As I said earlier however If your budget allows then go for it, and get a new one.

'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]
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Old 12-30-2005, 11:27 PM
d.delano's Avatar
Join Date: May 2004
Location: DC
Posts: 1,466
Well, I had the blower motor out about a month ago, and the brushes looked brand new, and the windings and armature looked fine. Whole thing looked pretty good really. I shot a little control pot cleaner in it and hooked it up to 12V and it ran fine.
So I'm thinking something's not right at the pump. Seems like a pretty straightforward deal. Perhaps I will try to tinker with the motor, and I know there is a part# for a repair kit for the pump component of the assembly, but this kit assumes the motor is good. Might be brand new pump time.
Thanks to all, Happy New Year, much obliged for the info these past 2 years.
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)
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Old 12-31-2005, 02:23 AM
pawoSD's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 14,981
I had my key all the way in "run" the other day when working on my fuel filter stuff, I had stopped the engine with the stop button on the IP because of the leaking fuel, and I could hear my aux pump humming away, so I bent down right by it to listen, and it sounds pretty smooth still, was humming along just fine. I'll be adding a 1A fuse setup very soon, but hopefully the thing will continue to work ok for a while yet. At least till April, because if it fries/blows the fuse then I can just wait till october to replace it.

The previous owner of our 83 had the CCU, Monovalve, AND aux pump and all the hoses replaced about 3 years before we got the car. So that one isn't much of a worry, but we're still going to add the fuse thing into it, since we have it all apart right now anyways.....
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 75k - mine - (OC-80,500)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 6k - wifes (OC-10k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 157k - mine (OC-160,000)
'89 420SEL 166k - mine (OC-167,000)
'01 E320 - 167k - dad's (OC-171,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 130k - dad's (OC-132,500)
'01 SL500 - 48k - dad's (OC-52,000)
'09 E350 4matic Sedan - 123k - Brothers (OC-127,000)
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Old 12-31-2005, 05:03 AM
Posts: n/a
Guide to rebuilding Auxilary Water Pump; Save $140

Since Carrameow did such a nice job writing this all up for us...I think I will post it for him.

Or look here:
How to disassemble aux water pump-part 1

Check it the very least it will help you get inside and see a worse problem than simple brush replacements. My guess is that your commutator is bridged and needs cleaning and probably some new brushes.

Or its just internally crap from water.

Don't get too bent out of shape when someone tells you to search...I found these after all and didn't even know the existance of the 2nd!
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