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Aux water pump replacement
All-
I have to replace my aux water pump. It's drawing too much amperage and already fried my CCU. I have four questions: 1) How difficult is this R&R? 2) I haven't looked to see where the pump is located. Where is it? 3) Will I have to drain the coolant for this procedure? 4) I need to procure a fuse holder and fuse to prevent CCU from burning up again in the future. Where can I get these? Scored a used CCU already & still have two old ones which are both fried. May try to make 1 good one out of the 2 bad ones. Thanks all.
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'02 BMW 325i '85 300D 450k '93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree) '08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k '06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold) |
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How do you know the pump is the problem if you haven't even looked at it yet? It's located in the heater hose that runs from the monovalve to the front of the engine, right front, just a little above/behind the alternator.
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Topic has been covered many times
Do a search, eh?
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"How do you know the pump is the problem if you haven't even looked at it yet?" I am speculating. I am speculating because I ran a search and all roads lead to 'bad aux pump'; none of the threads that I read offered any other cause. I have ALL the classic symptoms, hence my reasoning for jumping to the conclusion I have. I would be glad to peruse whatever thread leads you to believe that there are alternate causes, because believe me I don't want to buy a new pump @ $180. I do thank you Craig for pointing out where the pump is located. So my CCU is fried, suffering the same exact damage as the one before it. What do you think the cause is? Bad aux pump pulling more than 1.3A? I think it's a safe bet, considering the thing's 20 years old, and I really don't have the time for a lengthy diagnostic, nor do I have the equipment. I have what it takes to solder in a fuse holder and R&R the pump(if I don't have to drain the coolant that is) and CCU but beyond that my capabilities are limited here in NW DC. By the way I'm pre-thinking about this repair, and haven't decided the details of the execution. So I still have the latitude to come to another, cheaper, and more prudent solution if I can get some knowledge somewhere, which I am trying to do. Only solution I have come to is bad aux pump, simple as that. Look- I realize ganging up on folks on the internet is fun and all but I didn't ask for this. I am truly very sorry for invoking your ire, but I'm beginning to feel persecuted here on the forum. Every thread I start, furthermore all of my posts, are met with an abrasive response. I do my best you know, I have tried to help others and basically my help is ignored and someone can come on and say the same thing and get praised for helping the helpee, I buy my parts from FASTLANE, I say please and thank you; what do I stink or something, you been talking to my ex-girlfriends, what? Again, fellas- my apologies. Really. The reputation that the shop forum has for being contentious isn't the least bit deserved, and I promise this is the last time you will have to field any more of my ridiculous time-wasting questions as my dumb ass won't be posting here any longer. Happy New Year!
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'02 BMW 325i '85 300D 450k '93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree) '08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k '06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold) |
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Replacing the Auxiliary Water Pump on the W126 1985 300SD
Replacing the Auxiliary Water Pump
on the W126 1985 300SD by whunter http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126AuxPump
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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your questions are welcome any time, ignore the negativity/rant over nothing type of stuff, some people need/like to dump you know.
The motor in the aux pumps normally draws about 1.5 or 2 amps and when they fail they draw tens of amps and the circuit traces on the CCU melt. I have a bunch of motors in that condition. I actually am using a CCU that I patched by using small dia buss wire to solder across the gaps left where the copper vaporized. Its an ugly fix but works if that is all that is fried. Be aware however that there are some tiny relays that can fail on the CCU and the best solution is to either send the module to be rebuilt or find a good used one. The fuse holder can be found at a PEP boys or similar or an electrical supply, maybe Radio Shack if they are well stocked (most are not these days!) A regular 5 A (non-Slow Blow!) fuse should be about right I believe. It doesn't matter if you use a glass cartridge fuse or the newer ATC type used in automotive applications. As for repairing the motors, let me know if your successful and I'll send you a few to repair, I believe they are pretty well sealed up and replacement brushes will be hard to find, Bosch made them with no easy repair possible (they obviously sell a lot of them) A rebuilt 1238301285R runs $163. Also, I've used pumps from 126 and 124 models for the 123. They work fine. To do that you have to remove them and put them on the rubber mount on your vehicle. Using a thin blade screwdriver, spray WD40 under the rubber and twist the motor around till its free.
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! Last edited by dieseldiehard; 12-30-2005 at 05:27 PM. |
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Members: 18,602
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I hope the link I posted helps you. |
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I apoligize for "Tirebiting" you.
The easiest way I have found for checking the aux pump is to use a couple of jumper wires directly to the battery. Disconnect the pump electrical lead and hook up the neg jumper. Scratch the positive jumper to the positive battery post. BIG time sparks or a pump that doesn't run means it's time for another pump. PLEASE don't forget to place a one amp fuse inline. |
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I'm Kidding! Actually, in my opinion you did exactly as we all should. Research the issue, ask any more questions if necessary. You had the price already, which demonstrates more preperation. So don't sweat the knuckleheads that bust on you. You can tell which ones are just trying for some good natured knad-busting.
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John Last edited by JimmyL; 12-30-2005 at 11:34 PM. |
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Excellent. Thanks to all. To recap, I shall-
1) Put a 1A inline fuse in the replacement pump, pos wire 2) clamp off the two heater hoses 3) pull the old pump 4) install new pump 5) pull old fried CCU that I had just fixed(DOH!!!) 6) install new 'used' one that I just got, hope it ain't fried (ain't seen it yet but my nose knows) Will there be anything special that I have to do i.e. 'burp' the coolant system or something to get the air out that I introduced with the installation of the new pump? I'm going to do this without draining the coolant as I just replaced it and just don't want to replace it again. You all know I drive an MB diesel so I can't do a fool thing like never post here again
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'02 BMW 325i '85 300D 450k '93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree) '08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k '06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold) |
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As a contributor to many forums other than this one I need to tell you folks that this is the most repectful and courteous forum I have had the pleasure to be part of...You should try the Car Audio forums full of 20 somethings where they are all experts and opinions are fine as long as they are the accepted norm. The political forums are full of angry voters that aren't getting their way and moderators regularly have to scold members for name calling and keeping the hate mail down....I never have to worry about being called names and my opinion is respected....Thanks for all the nice posts...
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83 300CDTurbo 307,000 2005 Honda Element 266,000 56 Nash Ambassador Country Club Special 34,000(under restoration presently) http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/car-audio-multimedia/125099-123-install-extreme-dynamat.html |
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Turns out that the CCU was fried........and.........yes..........the aux. water pump was the culprit. So, I pulled the pump from the SD and connected it up directly to a battery. No rotation but it pulled 2.5 amps. So, Brandon, a stalled pump won't pull tens of amps........only 2.5 amps........and that will fry the CCU, given sufficient time. So, my advice is to remove the old pump and connect it directly to a battery with an ammeter inline. See if the pump rotates and read the amperage. If it's less than 1 amp, then the pump is fine and the problem lies elsewhere. If the pump fails to rotate, read the amperage and report back with the results. I'm curious if you can repeat my results at 2.5 amps for a stalled pump.- |
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