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#1
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Vacuum problems
Heres the situation... I read the Diesel Giant vacuume tutorial (THANKS!!!) and wanted to check the vaccume because i have vaccume problems Such as SLOW shutoff, check brakes light on at startup, non functioning vaccume locks, and partially functioning Climate control...
I break out my Uncles sunpro vacume gage (fine, I Indefinetly borrowed it last week), and go to test the vaccume... Keep in mind that its 30 out. I read the tutorial ( http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesvacuumtroubleshooting.htm ) if you need it (THANKS AGAIN Diesel Giant!!!), and decided to check it... I popped the line off the master cylinder (what a wierd fitting btw), and checked it. It was bouncing between 0 and 3 HG, i think (really low/barley registering) I thought that I didnt get a good seal, so I put a peice of vinal tubing over the gadge, and tried again, with the same result... I put the line back on, and couldnt shut it off. I tighten it down (very snug at this point) and still cant shut it off, even with revving... Thats a step backwards SO I think I have to rebuild my vacuume pump, right? Can somebody help me with that? I have absolutly no Idea whats up, other than I know where the pump is... Also, Now I cant shut the car off without using the lever (thank you Mercedes), and the AC blower doesnt work on any setting (used to work on cold ONLY, NOT on heat)... Is this all vaccume related? What kind of grease/whatever can I put on the vaccume supply line to the master cylinder to keep it from leaking even more (thats the onlything I touched)... I will try some tephlon tape, but its on the backburner untill next year What I'm asking is this... 1: What systems are controlled/affected by the vacuume? 2: How do I rebuild the vacuume pump (pics?) 3: Would putting tephlon tape around the fitting on the M/C hurt anything? Help anything? Thanks alot, and Happy New Years ~Nate
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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100. 1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle! 2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl) |
#2
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Based on what you've told us, I'm not sure the vacuum pump is the problem. You may just have a big vacuum leak someplace in the system. When you measured the vacuum on the main vacuum line to the brake booster, did you block off all the other vacuum line branch connections? If not, you may just have a leak someplace else in the system.
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#3
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Whoa !
99% of vacuum problems are much easier than what you're assuming. 1. On the driver's floor (under the plastic) take the vacuum lines apart (pull the hard plastic from the black rubber). T them off (in other words, close them off right there). Putting a golf tee in the rubber connectors is the easiest way. My hunch is that this will restore your car to shutting off on its own and thereby prove your problem to be in the door locks, fuel lock or truck lock. This simple procedure takes about one minute with no dis-assembly required. Let us know what happens next.
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DAILY DRIVERS: '84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's) '99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's) '97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's) '97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's) '96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's '84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion) SOLD: '82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed |
#4
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Quote:
It DID shutoff before (allbeiet slowly sometimes, few sec after key turned/removed), and the ac did partially work... Now nothing... Then again, I did see alot of lines comming off of the supply, so your probaolly right. I dont have a golf tee, but I might beable to snag a few tonight at the party (leaving in 5 or so min...) Thanks alot ~Nate *EDIT*Would checking the uninteroupeted line between the pump and the larger line tell me what condition my vacuume pump is in???*EDIT*
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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100. 1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle! 2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl) |
#5
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Quote:
I have my green line disconnected at this time due to a leak somewhere in that system. It allows the car to shutoff and the doorlocks to work at this point. Measure vac at the 'T' that comes off the main line, not at the brake booster. Or you may have two 'T's. Terminate one, check at the other. Also, less likely, but you could also have a leak in the line down to the tranny modulator, or the modulator itself.
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#6
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First, lets isolate the vacuum pump correctly and make sure the pump is good or bad. Otherwise your wasting a lot of time.
Test you vacuum pump this way. Get a couple of golf tees. Unbolt the large black vacuum line that goes from the vacuum pump to the brake booster. Now disconnect the 2 small black lines that branch off the large line. block one with the golf tee and connect your vacuum gauge to the other T. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK THE SMALL T's. Start the engine. Place you thumb over the connection that goes to the brake booster and read the gauge. Now your looking at the vacuum pump only. It should be 20-25 In HG. If not then that is your stating point. then go to the fire wall and by using the golf T's, isolate the various systems by color code. disconnect only the yellow plastic lines, then the brown lines etc. This way you learn which system is giving you the problem and can concentrate on that system only. Again first get a good reading on the vacuum pump. Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#7
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I have 22ish HG of vaccume with the booster line connected, and everything plugged except where im testing from (off the first Y) In order to get that, I needed to wrap the vacuum gauge with electrical tape (bad flexibal connectors)
None of the 4 lines comming off of the booster line hold pressure... I'm going to start off by replacing all of the; Tubing (green, black, yellow, green w/blue, blue&red, and the black rubber bits),flexibal connectors, Ushaped hose, 3 way connectors (Y and T), and the two blue check valves... Questions I have are... How do I check the two check valves? Where can I get the green, black, yellow, blue/green, and blue/red lines (hard plastic) Where Can I get a T connector that fits theese? can anybody help me as to where the lines go? the yellow one goes to the door, so i think its for the non functional door locking system? The black hard line runs across the engine compartment into a metal can with a black housing... wazzdat? What do the check valves control? Does it hurt anything to leave the door locks disconnected from the system indefinetly (an extra $200 I dont want to spend right now) Thanks alot ~Nate
__________________
95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100. 1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle! 2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl) |
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